200-4R won't shift into 3rd or overdrive...

no wonder the replacement governor spring looked different... i thought they may have sent the wrong spring :/ shit so could this non-stock governor have damaged my trans or could it be responsible in part for the no shit? also my t-type after a carb and turbo rebuild seemed still kinda slow, could this non-performance governor been at fault? oh one more question sorry... how can i tell if it is sticking while shifting and if i can get it to stop sticking or should i go ahead to the pressure test using this incorrect governor? sorry again bout all the questions... just don't want to continue to mistreat this poor thing :(
 
In the second pic it looks like 2 of the steels are almost touching which
would tell me that the friction material is gone off of at least one of the plates.
Hi Grandma! :)
 
deem :( i'm beginning to wonder if this trans is original to the car or if one of the previous owners had it replaced with a NA non-performance 200-4r... the previous owner was a lazy slob with some questionable mechanic friends and i do remember him saying something about the trans but i thought he just said his buddy replaced the filter and gasket?? are there numbers on the trans or valve body that can determine if it is a turbo performance trans or not? if those clutches are in fact toast would finding and actual performance 200-4r be my best bet? thanks for all the help
 
Could be a painted on br2 or br3 on the valve body. We already know the governor isn't brf. Should be a metal tag on the pass rear near the output. What are the stamped numbers and painted numbers on it?

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As Rich said, Valvebody will have White or Yellow Ink stamp on side. Performance Vbodies also have a Pink/Purple stain on the side. Either can be worn off from cleaning.
ID Tag Code Info:
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/pictureguides/tranny/transguide.html
http://web.archive.org/web/20070128173316/http://members.aol.com/powerrslid/thm2004r.html

Clutch plate in 2nd Pic does appear to be shot.
Your best bet may be finding a BRF/BQ Trans to rebuild. Just buying the needed parts to use in your Trans will cost about the same as a complete Trans.
 
sorry folks i left the state for a bit to put together my 68 satellite but now i'm finally back to tackle my poor t-type...

so i've found a craigslist ad with a fella selling a supposed t-type 200-4r, i haven't called him yet but figured i'd get some input before i headed that route.
being that i don't have the resources or the knowledge to repair my current non-performance 200-4r. do you think it'd be a good move to have a shop repair my current trans for me or should i look into this possible t-type 200-4r assuming it's in good useable shape?

any help would be much appreciated.
 
Depends on the shop and their abilities. I can say there are plenty if shops out there with the knowledge and abilitiy to build a quality trans but couldn't get a 2004r to go 500 miles and there are shops that build from scratch on any core and it can go 10s for years.
If you don't know and don't want to learn, going to one of the "gurus" memetioned over and over on this site will get you rolling. Give several a call and discuss what your goals are and get one ordered. If you like swapping trans in and out go local and take your chances.

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If the c/list is a BRF is reasonably priced and looks fairly decent, pick that up and drop the pan
and look for the items noted in this post and go from there. If you could get the seller to let you
drop the pan, you could check to see that it isn't burned up before you buy it! Good luck. ;)
 
In the second pic it looks like 2 of the steels are almost touching which
would tell me that the friction material is gone off of at least one of the plates.
Hi Grandma! :)
That is the over drive clutch pack. It only has two frictions stock and the middle two steels go back to back.
I see you have an 83 model so those pieces might be stock on an 83. I'm not familiar with them.

Looks like the tv is moving to me.
 
If the c/list is a BRF is reasonably priced and looks fairly decent, pick that up and drop the pan
and look for the items noted in this post and go from there. If you could get the seller to let you
drop the pan, you could check to see that it isn't burned up before you buy it! Good luck. ;)

Even if it is burned you will get the brf vb/gov for hp use. Good if it is priced right.
 
Even if it is burned you will get the brf vb/gov for hp use. Good if it is priced right.
I was also thinking that it was a good idea to check it out before he purchase it so if it is all burned up he could use that as a tool to get it at a lower price!
 
After rebuilding the carb and turbo, removing emission, cleaning, etc. etc.... I've been driving my 83 T for about 2-3 weeks, only about 50 miles a week and not beating on her either. Maybe a brake torque or two. I checked the trans fluid a few days ago and it looked a little low so I added less than half a quart which brought it up to full... didn't realize till later that the car was not level and the land was leaning to the drivers side so I over filled the trans but not by a lot. Must have been a day or two later that the trans wouldn't shift into 3rd or overdrive. Remembering my brake torque burnout a few days earlier I thought maybe the trans tossed the governor spring so I dropped the pan this morning and no spring in the pan... Plus the fluid was not as dark nor did it smell as bad as I'd expect if the clutches were burnt. I've attached some pics to show the fluid, filter and trans with pan and governor removed. Also while I have the pan off are there any upgrades I can do if the repair is easy enough? I am under time constraints as I leave the state in about a week and won't be back to my t-type for about two months :(

Haven't done much trans work myself and I don't have the access to a shop or the money for a shop to work on it, just a carport in a shitty neighborhood. Any help would be appreciated, thanks folks!

View attachment 196270View attachment 196271View attachment 196272View attachment 196273
if the trans has a hi 1st to 2nd your tv valve is stuck . try pulling on the tv cable a few times then road test see if it shifts
 
thanks for all the help so far, all the advice has been most appreciated! can't thank you folks enough!

the updates good and bad... the trans on craigslist had sold but the good news is mine appears to be the original to the car BR. judging by the date code on the tag and stamp on the valve body i'm attaching a few more pics i snapped while i was down there. the bad news is this time i took the pan off the fluid drained some more while i was gone and it was really dirty looking, although to me it really didn't smell burnt... maybe a slight burnt smell but mostly just smelled of old trans fluid.
now i got a line on a mechanic in the area that is supposed to be a pretty good trans guy and he said being that i'm friends with his mechanic buddy he'd rebuild the trans for $150 plus the cost of parts. my friend says he's been taking his transmissions to this guy for years... i would rather take the route of shipping it off to a turbo regal specialist but unfortunately work has been slow and i'm thinking after shipping i wouldn't be able to afford it :/ i'm still debating which route...

with that said either way if i pull the trans i can't do it where i live because the HOA is already on my ass about the work i've done to the car. my plan is to save on a tow and put the incorrect governor back in with a new filter and gasket to limp it over to my mechanic friend's place where he has more tools and we can then pull the trans there...

however before i do that i was going to throw some seafoam in there with fresh trans fluid hoping maybe it was some nasty fluid or maybe even some stop leak the previous owner put in gumming up the valve body. the previous owner had told me about the trans pan gasket leak when he had it and he said eventually his friend put one on but before that he may have thrown some stop leak in... could this have been an issue or am i just hoping for a miracle? also if there is a chance that was the issue would it be advised to clear out all the old fluid, if so what's the best cleanest way i can do that myself with the trans in car? if i make a mess the HOA will surely be close to booting my grams and myself out :( i'm also hoping to pressure test if it's still not shifting once i get the trans back together...

oh and one last thing what sort of problems or damage could this incorrect governor have caused? should i pick one up before i button the trans back up? not sure how long it's been in the trans.

thanks again fellas!
 

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Looks like you have the correct pieces. I would highly reccomend a copy of the ck book and an atsg manual . If you haven't done a search, there have been many who tried and failed with the "local guy with plenty of transmission experience". There are also many who have a local guy who knows his stuff. Make it very clear that you MUST have your vb and governor. You don't show the servo but if it is a "692" or "694", you want that back in there too. Careful assembly following clearances and not substituting parts "cuz there all tha same", this isn't the case. Your brf parts are unique. Good luck with the local guy. Post back to let us know how it goes.

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I'm confused...post 18 says a green speedo gear is not correct and post 20 says green is stock,
for a BRF trans I'm assuming.
I think the green one is correct for the BRF. Most turbo cars had 3.42 gears. And post 20's link to chevelle site lists "driven" gear with 29 teeth, and "drive" gear with 11 teeth. The site contradicts what the post said. :eek:
 
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Depends on the driving gear and the rear gears I would guess. His is an 83, what rear gears came stock? We know 84-87 are all 3.42.
He doesn't show if it has one or two springs either.

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thanks Rich, i'll check into those books. if i end up going with the local i'll make sure to tell him to keep those items. i'd rather go with a pro but not sure if there is an affordable one... well affordable for me anyhow lol. anyone know the most affordable? i'm not looking for huge horsepower capabilities probably just a little over stock if any.

without taking the trans apart is there a way to see if i have the correct servo?
so i'm understanding that my governor is definitely incorrect, right? would this be the correct governor http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grand-Natio...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3367563092&vxp=mtr
has anyone bought one of those or is there a better place to pick one up?

since i did still have reverse meanbuicks mentioned maybe "sticking 2-3 shift valve assembly in the valve body" so i was thinking about removing the valve body for a cleaning? if i were to do that would it be recommended that i have one of those books? i don't want to get myself in over my head especially in my grams driveway lol.

i did a little research and i'm pretty sure i've got the 3.42 rear gear.. unless someone got into it :( which springs am i looking for rich, i've only got two over the rear axle one on each side?

whew, thanks guys i'm starting to get an idea of my next move... just want to make sure i'm not going to make the wrong one ;)
 
If I were you, I'd get David Husek on the phone. He is super helpful and can sell you anything you need . I will send you some materials I have on the pm. If you do drop the vb be aware there are small ball bearings in there that will come out. Get you a tub of Vaseline . You can use that to "hold" or stick the balls in while you put it back together. It isn't hard but does require dexterity. You probably want to get the gaskets and such so you can put it together. There are several "kits" that could contain the gaskets.
Let me get home and like I said above ill send you some diagrams so you can know what you are looking at and how it might go back together.
Especially if it isn't slipping. I would hate to take it apart for no reason.

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IMAG0070.jpg

Here is a pic of the servo that was in my AA trans. It has a 569 at the end. You see the cast numbers. The brf has 694 at the end of the number. The mcss cz and bq (and some others) have a 692 at the end.

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thanks Rich, talked to Dave today and he was very helpful! I was thinking bout ordering up a valve body gasket but then thought since i'll have the vb off i might as well order a shift kit since it comes with the gaskets anyway and the california performance TH-200 4R Hi-Tech Lock Up Valve Body Kit is affordable at only $64. excellent servo pic as well, once I pull the vb off for the cleaning i'll check around see if i can't find the numbers on my servo.

i think i'm also going to see what i can find on modifying the incorrect governor i have...
 
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