280 LPH Supra fuel pump installed

Have my first issue with the Denso fuel pump. I drive my car every day and about 10k miles a year. I was driving the car to a car meet and I stopped to drop some thing off at a friends. I come out and the fuel pump will not prime. I bang on the tank and it kicks on. At this point I tow the car home and drop my tank to find the plug with the red and purple wires go into melted. I’m not sure what my solution is going to be. I don’t know how to post pictures, but here is the link to my photo bucket. Sorry for the cell phone photos. Pictures by pwr6kid - Photobucket
 
that tank-top bulkhead is pretty wimpy,

when you installed the pump, was the connection pigtail new, or did you reuse the old connector?

Bob
 
It was a new connector. I think I’m going to make a 10 gauge wire from the pump to the 3 wire clip out side the tank. Ill take better pictures and try and figure out how to post them up.
 
Have my first issue with the Denso fuel pump. I drive my car every day and about 10k miles a year. I was driving the car to a car meet and I stopped to drop some thing off at a friends. I come out and the fuel pump will not prime. I bang on the tank and it kicks on. At this point I tow the car home and drop my tank to find the plug with the red and purple wires go into melted. I’m not sure what my solution is going to be. I don’t know how to post pictures, but here is the link to my photo bucket. Sorry for the cell phone photos. Pictures by pwr6kid - Photobucket



Racetronix - G7 In-tank & Intermediate Harness Kit - Kit Configuration Page
 
Stock wires aren't heavy enough for the amperage this pump uses. Also my pump fit right in the tank without cutting up the tank lip-just ground down the float shaft alittle, also helps to try to point the sock as much as possible inline with the float arm.
 
Your problem deals with the lesser quality stock bulkhead harness for this high current draw pump. It is too bad that you did not see this information come out as we began to venture into this pumps use in our cars. We are all very fortunate that all that occured was you need a tow and nothing caught fire. I would reccommend a new bulkhead from Racetronix and you will be back in business. Thanks for the info sharing.


Mike
 
Thank you Racetronix for the link. Beamer I feel your right too, the stock bulk head is too small to supply the pump with the amperage it needs under a full load. What I ended up doing is taking out the stock bulk head. I ran a new power wire and soldered the two purple halves together. Next I epoxied the hole closed on both sides and any where fuel touched I did insert a piece of rubber over both wires so the metal did not cut the wires if they rubbed. i did have to repin the stock conector for the 10 gauge wire i used, so the stock clip is still used. I uploaded more photos to the previous link.
 
Have one on mine, haven't been to the track yet with this set up.
I have been before with the 340 hot wire set up and was running lean @ 10.75/10.63 125mph 24lbs. boost.

Now I have a wideband since then & was still running lean.... Got the Denso and just hotwired the BAP which is a must for me; the bap was draining too much voltage wired as the instructions say; a problem I was having and didn't know it at the time and just figured it out... I wound up hot wiring the bap and my voltage drain problems went away :smile: been fighting this problem for 2yrs and now just figured it out.:rolleyes: @ 20psi fuel psi is 62lbs steady A/F ratio 10:30s-10:60s @ 15V on the bap. 10:50s-1080s @ 13V on the bap. I'm going to inch up the boost haven't tried 17V yet, still experimenting. But the Bap definately works when wired up correctly.:smile:
Just haven't decided to turn the inj. duty cycle down or just the voltage on the Bap to raise the AFR.
decisions , decisions, Now at least I have some.

Turn down the volts on the BAP, the pump will last longer.
 
Bryant, when I priced mine at advance it was close to 400, after looking around you can fin them for about 200. Check some venders and check eBay but make sure it's a real pump if you get it from eBay. I belive racetronic has them and an install kit.
 

That is a great deal. I would think that Racetronics would also package the bulkhead harness to go with these pumps.

This is a great alternative to a double pumper or other expensive external pumps. This will take you into the 9's easily. Of course with alky ! and the proper tune !

Thanks to Racetronix for looking into getting correct equipment for us.


Mike
 
No, I also posted that I killed the Denso in 2010 with about 1500 E85 miles on it, this is why I did a thread about the DW pump, it's E85 friendly.

Good to see Racetronix bring another plug and play pump to us that can flow and is fairly priced, I'd recommend only using it on gas through.
 
No, I also posted that I killed the Denso in 2010 with about 1500 E85 miles on it, this is why I did a thread about the DW pump, it's E85 friendly.

Good to see Racetronix bring another plug and play pump to us that can flow and is fairly priced, I'd recommend only using it on gas through.

Are we sure these two failures are solely becuase of E85?
 
I have to retract my statement. I should have taken a closer look before posting. My apologies to denso!


Pulled the pump last night and it bench tested fine. I retained the factory quick disconnect plug and a short run of oem wire thickness, then ran my large gauge wiring to it from a 40a relay. Apparently there was a poor connection in the plug as it started to melt by the positive lead. Now I have new power and ground wires by-passing the oem plug. Started right up. No signs of hot wires at the relay or anywhere else. I think the connection in the plug was bad. Also the neoprene rubber I used to shield the pump noise looks great. No swelling or signs of deterioration due to e85.

On a side note the pump could be on its way out and that is what caused the melted connector/wire. I'll keep a close eye on it now.
 
I have to retract my statement. I should have taken a closer look before posting. My apologies to denso!


Pulled the pump last night and it bench tested fine. I retained the factory quick disconnect plug and a short run of oem wire thickness, then ran my large gauge wiring to it from a 40a relay. Apparently there was a poor connection in the plug as it started to melt by the positive lead. Now I have new power and ground wires by-passing the oem plug. Started right up. No signs of hot wires at the relay or anywhere else. I think the connection in the plug was bad. Also the neoprene rubber I used to shield the pump noise looks great. No swelling or signs of deterioration due to e85.

On a side note the pump could be on its way out and that is what caused the melted connector/wire. I'll keep a close eye on it now.

You really shouldnt be using the factory fuel sender wiring harness to supply power to the Denso pump. The wiring cant handle the amp draw from the pump. That would be the reasone for melted wires/connectors. Check out the Racetronix wiring kit. I just bought one yesturday. They are cheap insurance.
 
Fuel pump failure

My old faithful Walbro quit over the summer after switching to E85,

BUT. The wiring was the failure. The previous owner had done some wire-splicing in the tank to connect the 87 wiring adapter to the 86 sending unit wiring.

I rebuilt all the wiring and replaced the pump, even though the original was probably still good.

(I see a pattern developing)

Bob
 
Eventually every factory sender will require a new upgraded bullkhead connector assembly to prevent these problems.
 
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