These threads are tough. I'm being compared with other kits on the market place without any specifics. I guess this is the price I pay being a vendor.
What makes an alky kit? Simple.. you have a list of parts.
Pump, lines, nozzle, electrical, and a controller. Each one of these if has its own strength in making the system reliable. A chain is only as strong as its weakest link.
So the issue keeps coming up is comparing what I do with the rest of the world. Saying there are other options, or better technology, or better??? The grass is greener statements.
So lets look at the Turbo Buick platform.
Now lets look at the tank. What options exist. Look at capacity, chemical compatability, cost, ease of use/install, etc. Early kits from SMC used a generic 2 quart bottle with a built in pump. Other aftermarket kits supply a 2 quart generic bottle to be fastened hap hazardly under the hood somewhere. My solution was the readily available GM coolant tank which holds a gallon. Add a low level sending unit, a vented cap, and we use a compression fitting that adapts the nipple to a -6 flare end. So the connections to the tank are flare. Hose from tank to pump is a teflon lined nomex braided hose that will resist any chemical. The decision to use this tank instead of a stainless steel or fuel cell type tank was due to cost. The balance of cost vs performance.. The GM tank is a winner. To which my other Buick kit competitor also uses this same tank for storage. Both of us feel this is the right direction. We just have a different approach on how the hose attaches, the low level, and the cap with vent issue. There are no other companies offering any other options.
The hoses used in the system on the pressure side are stainless steel teflon lined braided hoses. There is no better hose for the application. As far as chemical compatability, pressure, etc. Other kits supply plastic hoses, push in style fittings, etc.
Nozzle.. a lot of the companies use the same Hago nozzle. Ours also has an inline mesh filter to eliminate debris clogging.
Pump. Here is where there is a lot of hype. There is a lot of research. And things like the cam design, valving, seals, hardware, etc.. are crucial for long term operation. We build and modify all the pump. They are all tested in excess of 250 PSI of pressure, cases sealed, custom valving employed, extra gaskets, check valves, hardware replaced with stainless steel, etc etc etc. It really gets me when they say my pump is just like everybody elses. No its not.
Electrical. All wiring is heavyduty, feature weather pack connectors, and is more than rated for the application.
So far all the above are very basic, straight forward, and effective. There is no improvement as there are no failures. The only issue, the low level blinking more than some like. Why becuase alcohol is very thin in nature .79 specific gravity and floats dont like to float in it. Does this affect the operation of the hard parts, no. A better solution would be to employ a deeper tank just to solve this one issue, but the layout under the hood on the car does not allow for this. And we get back into the cost issues. A Buick specific custom tank would be cost prohibitive. Those wanting a better solution, trunk mounting a fuel cell will cure this. And the LED will still blink when the tank starts getting lower. Just like the GM gas gauge bounces when it reaches 1/4 tank.
The question on the controller. The controller must handle high current demands and be at least 3 dimensional. It should at least feature an On/Off, a Test button, and be easy to setup and tune. The dimensions are Onset(turnon), a ramp, and a slope adjustment.
Last and not least Buick specific customer service.
My kits hits all the above points and goes beyond. There is no better system made for the Turbo Regals. My goal is to try and satisfy 100% of my clientele. Unfortunately you will always have someone not content. And this will happen to any business. At this point 99.9999 are happy
and .0001 are writing in this thread
Some not even customers