I have a .40 pistol but I think I want a revolver to keep it company.
Anyone have one of these?
Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc.
Anyone have one of these?
Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc.
anybody own one of these revolvers?
- Thread starter Renthorin
- Start date
I do not own a GP100 but I have heard good things about them. I do have a Super Redhawk 454 Casull which is nice because it can also shoot 45LC. Ruger handguns seem to always be very reasonable when used, mine was barely used and it about 40% less than new.
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
That is a nice looking pistol.
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Even more ironic:
686 vs GP100 - 1911Forum
Scroll down a few posts - who do we see? Our own FlyinGN! How about that?
686 vs GP100 - 1911Forum
Scroll down a few posts - who do we see? Our own FlyinGN! How about that?
Turbo6Smackdown
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2005
the gp100 is an outstanding gun, and theyre cheaper than the other top names around. great gun. but if you already have a 686, youre done. you got the wheelgun niche covered.
No the 686 is a friend's gun that I shoot at the range so she can shoot my pistol. I like to swap and that is what has gotten my hooked on revolvers.
There seems to be about a 100 dollar or more difference between the two , S&W being the more expensive, so I just want to make sure the 100 isn't terrible.
As people love to say "you get what you pay for" but they always forget the second half of that phrase which is "but you can pay for more than you get".
Thanks for the replies guys (hey that rhymes) I think the GP100 is going to come home with me.
Now if I can just make it down to Cabellas today......
There seems to be about a 100 dollar or more difference between the two , S&W being the more expensive, so I just want to make sure the 100 isn't terrible.
As people love to say "you get what you pay for" but they always forget the second half of that phrase which is "but you can pay for more than you get".
Thanks for the replies guys (hey that rhymes) I think the GP100 is going to come home with me.
Now if I can just make it down to Cabellas today......
That is what stinks about where I live (sssmmmaalllll town). There is ONE gun place within an hour's drive.
I am torn between new and used. For something like a gun I like to know the complete history before I pull the trigger.
If I buy used I would take it to my gunsmith friend and have him bless it before I use it
I am torn between new and used. For something like a gun I like to know the complete history before I pull the trigger.
If I buy used I would take it to my gunsmith friend and have him bless it before I use it
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Ding Ding Ding!!
I do I do.
This one to be exact.
Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc.
It's home is a De Santis custom fit leather holster similar to this one but for the 4" barrel.
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/desantisholster_1929_2198822
Picked it up slightly used at a gun show 6 years ago for $375.00.
I can tell you the first time I shot my GP100 I was blown away (pardon the pun) with the accuracy. I really love shooting this pistol. The grip is perfectly formed and very, very comfortable for repeated shots. Recoil is very controllable and it's not that heavy fully loaded. My 92FS and Baby Eagle are a lot heavier than the GP100, but it's the most accurate pistol I own. I can tell you from experience tho, if you do decide to replace the front site, don't use one of the plastic colored ones, only replace with a metal one. I did the plastic one and it only lasted for 10 shots before it suddenly disappeared with pieces flying everywhere. Guys at the range were like, you ok down there? We saw pieces flying.
Anywho, I was so impressed with the feel and accuracy that I went out and bought Rugers SP101 for my cc. Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc.
Umm.... this little sucker is kinda different if you catch my drift. I try not to shoot it very often, 10-12 shots is usually enough for me, dang mini elephant gun is what it really is.
Sorry to ramble on.
I highly recommend the GP100 if you're shopping for a wheel gun. You won't regret it.
Patrick
I do I do.
This one to be exact.
Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc.
It's home is a De Santis custom fit leather holster similar to this one but for the 4" barrel.
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/desantisholster_1929_2198822
Picked it up slightly used at a gun show 6 years ago for $375.00.
I can tell you the first time I shot my GP100 I was blown away (pardon the pun) with the accuracy. I really love shooting this pistol. The grip is perfectly formed and very, very comfortable for repeated shots. Recoil is very controllable and it's not that heavy fully loaded. My 92FS and Baby Eagle are a lot heavier than the GP100, but it's the most accurate pistol I own. I can tell you from experience tho, if you do decide to replace the front site, don't use one of the plastic colored ones, only replace with a metal one. I did the plastic one and it only lasted for 10 shots before it suddenly disappeared with pieces flying everywhere. Guys at the range were like, you ok down there? We saw pieces flying.
Anywho, I was so impressed with the feel and accuracy that I went out and bought Rugers SP101 for my cc. Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc.
Umm.... this little sucker is kinda different if you catch my drift. I try not to shoot it very often, 10-12 shots is usually enough for me, dang mini elephant gun is what it really is.
Sorry to ramble on.
I highly recommend the GP100 if you're shopping for a wheel gun.
You won't regret it.Patrick
I have a stainless GP100 with 4 inch barrel. It is more solidly built and heavier than the Smith 686. The 686 has a better trigger pull out of the box, but if you lighten the hammer spring and smooth down the action on the GP100 it will be just as good. I have had both a 4 inch and 6 inch and for some reason the 4 inch shot much better than the 6 inch I had. If you hand load and intend to run max loads definitely go with the Ruger. Top strap is much thicker and will resist flame cutting with hot loads better than the smith. I have always felt that the Smith revolvers are like "sports cars" and the Rugers are more like "muscle cars".
Thanks guys...this is just what I need to hear :biggrin:
My bank account is trembling as I type.
My local shop can get me the stainless 4" version for 515...blued for 485
I like the look of the blued but don't know if I want to deal with the potential rust issues.
I will probably go stainless.
My bank account is trembling as I type.
My local shop can get me the stainless 4" version for 515...blued for 485
I like the look of the blued but don't know if I want to deal with the potential rust issues.
I will probably go stainless.
Turbo6Smackdown
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2005
you can have any gun coated with coatings like Np3, ro-guard or diamond kote, and they wont rust stainless is the bomb though. Im a blued man myself, but this stainless gun can sure take some crap. though, i always thought traditional gun steel was a touch tougher than stainless. i know most match barrels in benchrest competeting, are still gun steel. (it may be just a preference, as most benchrest guys are older, and set in their preferences) as for used revolver. all the way. its what i would do. but, at least when buying new, you know for a fact, you have 20,000 rounds of good shooting ahead of you. remember to break in your barrel the first 20 rounds, and youll be squared away.
stainless is the bomb though. Im a blued man myself, but this stainless gun can sure take some crap. though, i always thought traditional gun steel was a touch tougher than stainless. i know most match barrels in benchrest competeting, are still gun steel. (it may be just a preference, as most benchrest guys are older, and set in their preferences) as for used revolver. all the way. its what i would do. but, at least when buying new, you know for a fact, you have 20,000 rounds of good shooting ahead of you. remember to break in your barrel the first 20 rounds, and youll be squared away.Turbo6Smackdown
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2005
breaking in a barrel, is EXACTLY like breaking in an engine. same concept. it mostly applies to rifles than pistols but you still break in a barrel regardless in my opinion. to do a barrel, ya just use the cheapest ammo you can, and what you do is, ya clean the crap out of the bore, after every shot, for about the first 20 rounds or so, and then youre good to go. basically, without going into a book here, is it smooths things out in there, so that A. its a lot smoother so now its more consistant shooting, B. its easier to clean, and C. it lasts a little longer.
it overall just works and shoots better now. Noone really notices a difference cuz 1, noone does it. 2. noone does it properly, or 3, noone cares enough to do it. Like i said, it mostly applies to rifles, and most people do it to rifle barrels, cuz it makes it a tad more consistant after. and thats what most picky target shooters want, is consistency. cuz, if youre off by a quarter inch at 75 metres, fine. but be off that much, and by the time that bullets out to say 700 metres, youre going to be off by a light year. so consistency is key with us anal rifle shooters.
pistol shooters dont really care enough to bed in a barrel cuz not only is accuracy down to +/- 2mm's not really a concern cuz of the short range, but pistol barrels are tougher by nature. the main benefit for an average pistol shooter are probably just an easier to clean barrel, which is reason enough for me to bed in a pistol barrel. (im really finicky about my weapons getting cleaned, from being in the military)
There's a lot of speculation about using lapping compound on your bullets when bedding it in, being the best and only way to do it, but many disagree. Its not that necesary on a pistol. super cleaning the barrel between each shot for about 20 rounds is bedding enough to be honest. Ya only gotta do it once, and I think its worth it. Its free, but costs a little time and elbow grease if youre willing to do it. Just use a NON METAL bore brush, (plastic, not brass, bronze or steel) attached to a ONE PIECE stiff cleaning rod, made of either graphite/carbonfiber, like those good golf clubs or arrows are, or aluminum, brass, or if its steel, make sure its rubber or plastic coated. No steel sectional rods. never. and get some hoppes or other brand name COPPER solvent rbc, (bore cleaner) and some patches, and clean the bore with the rbc, then run clean dry patches down it, till they come out clean and white. if you got your technique down, it should only take about 5 minutes per cleaning. it goes fast.
it overall just works and shoots better now. Noone really notices a difference cuz 1, noone does it. 2. noone does it properly, or 3, noone cares enough to do it. Like i said, it mostly applies to rifles, and most people do it to rifle barrels, cuz it makes it a tad more consistant after. and thats what most picky target shooters want, is consistency. cuz, if youre off by a quarter inch at 75 metres, fine. but be off that much, and by the time that bullets out to say 700 metres, youre going to be off by a light year. so consistency is key with us anal rifle shooters.
pistol shooters dont really care enough to bed in a barrel cuz not only is accuracy down to +/- 2mm's not really a concern cuz of the short range, but pistol barrels are tougher by nature. the main benefit for an average pistol shooter are probably just an easier to clean barrel, which is reason enough for me to bed in a pistol barrel. (im really finicky about my weapons getting cleaned, from being in the military)
There's a lot of speculation about using lapping compound on your bullets when bedding it in, being the best and only way to do it, but many disagree. Its not that necesary on a pistol. super cleaning the barrel between each shot for about 20 rounds is bedding enough to be honest. Ya only gotta do it once, and I think its worth it. Its free, but costs a little time and elbow grease if youre willing to do it. Just use a NON METAL bore brush, (plastic, not brass, bronze or steel) attached to a ONE PIECE stiff cleaning rod, made of either graphite/carbonfiber, like those good golf clubs or arrows are, or aluminum, brass, or if its steel, make sure its rubber or plastic coated. No steel sectional rods. never. and get some hoppes or other brand name COPPER solvent rbc, (bore cleaner) and some patches, and clean the bore with the rbc, then run clean dry patches down it, till they come out clean and white. if you got your technique down, it should only take about 5 minutes per cleaning. it goes fast.
Westside500
Banned
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2004
Good looking pistol.
