Cam sensor timing
- Thread starter DannyJov
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Yes, an oil pressure gauge. Does the idiot light on your dash work? and if so, did you notice if it was out when you fired up the engine?
Did you put a drill in the cam sensor hole and spin it? If so, did you feel a 'hit' when the pump bogged down and started pumping oil, and if so, did you spin it until you saw oil on the rockers?
Also, did you do anything to prime the pump on that replacement cover or just install it? With all the cranking you did fighting with the cam sensor you might have caught a 'bubble' and lost prime even if you did.
Did you put a drill in the cam sensor hole and spin it? If so, did you feel a 'hit' when the pump bogged down and started pumping oil, and if so, did you spin it until you saw oil on the rockers?
Also, did you do anything to prime the pump on that replacement cover or just install it? With all the cranking you did fighting with the cam sensor you might have caught a 'bubble' and lost prime even if you did.
Ok so what things should I now check/ make sure/ test/ look for/ensure to make sure my car is now drivable and it won't get all screwed up because I'm driving it.
Obviously check my oil pressure...then what..a check list would be fantastic
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Obviously check my oil pressure...then what..a check list would be fantastic
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If you fired that engine up with no oil pressure, I have a feeling this isn't going to be good. The quick and dirty test would be to watch the idiot light. Turn the key on, and verify the 'oil' light works. Then fire the car up, give it about 2 or 3 seconds to go out. If it goes out, you have at least 2~4PSI. If it stays on, you're in trouble. That's the dirty test.....
If I were you I would probably go to the auto parts store and get a priming tool and a new oil filter (your current one is full of Vaseline).
Pop the cam sensor out and have a friend watch the idiot light. If your pumps working, you'll feel it bog the drill down. There's no gray line between working or not when on the drill. After doing that, and you get the oil pumping, reinstall and reset the cam sensor. Hopefully you marked the balancer at 25 ATDC, that will make it easier to reset again.
Cross your fingers while you're doing it. Last night I started to get a bad feeling about your fresh rebuild. There's a chance you've smoked it.
If I were you I would probably go to the auto parts store and get a priming tool and a new oil filter (your current one is full of Vaseline).
Pop the cam sensor out and have a friend watch the idiot light. If your pumps working, you'll feel it bog the drill down. There's no gray line between working or not when on the drill. After doing that, and you get the oil pumping, reinstall and reset the cam sensor. Hopefully you marked the balancer at 25 ATDC, that will make it easier to reset again.
Cross your fingers while you're doing it. Last night I started to get a bad feeling about your fresh rebuild. There's a chance you've smoked it.
Really..... I wouldn't have started the car if there was even the slightest chance of this happening.. I was told to crank it and see if it starts by another member so I did so. Now I'm being told my motor could possibly be toast..?
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You were given bad advice. People tend to oversimplify the oil system.
The newer intercooled engines with oil coolers are easier to prime/keep primed as you can pop a line loose and back fill the pump with oil. In your case, you have to make sure the pump is pumping before starting the engine. Without using a drill as a safety net, it's a one shot deal.
Lets talk about the noise you heard when you had it running. Did it sound like a couple of gnomes in the oil pan with 2 pound hammers or did it sound like you had a sewing machine under each valve cover?
The newer intercooled engines with oil coolers are easier to prime/keep primed as you can pop a line loose and back fill the pump with oil. In your case, you have to make sure the pump is pumping before starting the engine. Without using a drill as a safety net, it's a one shot deal.
Lets talk about the noise you heard when you had it running. Did it sound like a couple of gnomes in the oil pan with 2 pound hammers or did it sound like you had a sewing machine under each valve cover?
I tried starting the car two more times. At this point I could care less about the 5k I dropped into the motor.. Nothing is working. Throwing in the towel.. She shall collect dust for the months to come
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Cooling off time is probably good right now. I've been following your saga and I'm sure you're frustrated. I've been there for sure. Several times. Valve springs, push rods, injectors. All things that seem extremely simple to most, but gave me some serious headaches and caused me to invent thousands of new swear words. Stick with it; you've come so far and your almost there. All you need is a little oil pressure.
Once you've had a chance to cool off and calm the frustration, come back to it and finish up this thread. There's a bunch of us rooting for you and we all like to see a happy ending. From the "ticking" you describe, it sounds like it was just lifters, but you definitely don't want to run the motor any more without confirmed oil PSI.
Post up your location. There's bound to be someone fairly close to you that would be willing to help for a few cold ones. If nobody answers directly, some of the members here may be able to recommend a knowledgable member near you that you could PM for a little help.
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Once you've had a chance to cool off and calm the frustration, come back to it and finish up this thread. There's a bunch of us rooting for you and we all like to see a happy ending. From the "ticking" you describe, it sounds like it was just lifters, but you definitely don't want to run the motor any more without confirmed oil PSI.
Post up your location. There's bound to be someone fairly close to you that would be willing to help for a few cold ones. If nobody answers directly, some of the members here may be able to recommend a knowledgable member near you that you could PM for a little help.
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Ughhhh it's because I'm so new to this..whatever I know about these cars has been picked up from this forum and from tinkering on my car myself so it's really hard especially because I've came so far. But I live in a suburb outside of Detroit..Novi, Mi.
I really don't want to crank the motor anymore than what I already have but I don't know what to do anymore. I was told to drill until I could see oil in my rockers so I drilled and drilled and three hours later I still couldn't see oil..so frustration is an understatement.. Now that I'm currently on a cooling off break... I'll see where I get with this tomorrow
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GNONYX
Well-Known Member
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- Oct 16, 2009
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I agreed with Dan, timeout, regroup, and definitely get yourself an oil pressure gauge, since I personally don't trust an oil idiot light.
Once you installed the oil pressure gauge, try this method since this is the one I used and it worked great.
I first filled the oil filter as much as I can and then put 3 quarts oil in the oil pan, then I remove the lower oil cooler from the radiator taped it against some pipe so the oil cooler is vertical position. Then place a small funnel inside the oil cooler hose, you will need a Chevy oil pump prime tool and place it inside the Cam Sensor hole; make sure the tool slot is fitted on the oil pump shaft. DO NOT START THE ENGINE, if your oil pressure gauge is electric then just turn the key to the "ON POSITION" , and have someone inside the car telling you that you have oil pressure. Attach the cordless drill machine to prime tool and run it at CCW position, at the same time fill the oil cooler hose with about 1-1/2-2 quarts of motor oil, or until you have oil pressure present. Once you have oil pressure, re-install the oil cooler hose back, set the cordless drill machine to CW until the other person inside the car tells you that you oil pressure on the gauge.
If you still don't have oil pressure showing on the oil pressure gauge, start to see is the oil pump shaft split tabs is still intact, or if the oil pump is damage.
Once you installed the oil pressure gauge, try this method since this is the one I used and it worked great.
I first filled the oil filter as much as I can and then put 3 quarts oil in the oil pan, then I remove the lower oil cooler from the radiator taped it against some pipe so the oil cooler is vertical position. Then place a small funnel inside the oil cooler hose, you will need a Chevy oil pump prime tool and place it inside the Cam Sensor hole; make sure the tool slot is fitted on the oil pump shaft. DO NOT START THE ENGINE, if your oil pressure gauge is electric then just turn the key to the "ON POSITION" , and have someone inside the car telling you that you have oil pressure. Attach the cordless drill machine to prime tool and run it at CCW position, at the same time fill the oil cooler hose with about 1-1/2-2 quarts of motor oil, or until you have oil pressure present. Once you have oil pressure, re-install the oil cooler hose back, set the cordless drill machine to CW until the other person inside the car tells you that you oil pressure on the gauge.
If you still don't have oil pressure showing on the oil pressure gauge, start to see is the oil pump shaft split tabs is still intact, or if the oil pump is damage.
^He's got a hotair so there's no oil line.
When you were spinning the shaft with the drill, was it free spinning or trying to break your wrist? If the drill was trying to rip out of your hand, that's what you want. If it was just spinning easily, there's no oil inside your pump.
If there's no oil in the pump, you ran the engine without oil when you started it up earlier.
When you were spinning the shaft with the drill, was it free spinning or trying to break your wrist? If the drill was trying to rip out of your hand, that's what you want. If it was just spinning easily, there's no oil inside your pump.
If there's no oil in the pump, you ran the engine without oil when you started it up earlier.
Phoneguy
Cometic HG stress tester
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