Complete Engine Build step by step

I got my timing gears today. They fit awesome. Had to go with .010" under. Turns out that setting it to top dead paid off since i am not degreeing the cam, the timing marks on the gears were right on. Didnt have to move anything. My bolts for the cam gear are too long so tomorrow i will cut them and get pics up. They should get red loc tite correct?
 
Heres the timing gears on and bolted in. The two cam bolts got red loc tite and were torqued to 20 ft/lbs. I did not degree the cam so i set the crank gear on 0. Having the engine at top dead made for easy aligning of the dots on the gears. Heres a pic of the two dots aligned.
 

Attachments

  • TCsmall.jpg
    TCsmall.jpg
    88.3 KB · Views: 1,113
Next i set the cam endplay. I have a hydraulic roller from comp cams. I also have the steel button with the shims from comp. Comps directions call for .005" to .010" end play. I had no clue how to get in there and do this without the rear freeze plug out so i made something to measure it. I was able to extend one end of my caliper to go into one of the oil drain holes in the lifter galley. The other end i stuck into a piece of styrofoam so it wouldnt move when i moved the cam. I started with all the shims on the button, put the button on, put the timing cover on and torque to spec(22 ft lbs). Move the cam towards the back of the block using a screwdriver wraped in rubber or some other long skinny object that wont damage the cam if you slip. Place your measuring device on the a cam lobe, or on the back of the cam if you have the freeze out plug removed, and now move the cam back towards the front of the block. That measurement is your endplay. The shim i had came with .005" shims and .010" shims. The first time i got .018" so i removed a .010" shim and came up with .008" which falls right within spec. I ended up using 4 shims total.
 

Attachments

  • ENDPLAY.jpg
    ENDPLAY.jpg
    89.4 KB · Views: 1,126
I put the other head on as i did the first and set up my rockers next. First i soaked all my lifters in lacquer thinner to remove any assembly lube or preservation oil. Then i dropped them all in a tub of oil and let them sit a few hours. Installing them in the block is self explanitory, Just be sure you have proper clearence and comp or other manufacturers specify. Next i put my push rods in and put my rocker pedestals in. I torqued the rocker pedestals to 70 ft/lbs with loc tite. Champion recomends 42-44 ft lbs but the have a habit of backing off at this torque. They are coarse thead and have alot of thread engagement so they should not strip. Next i put my Scorpian rockers on. Make sure you follow the diagram that comes with the champion heads for the rocker set up. Some of the lifters have an offset for the pushrods and they must be installed properly or the roller will not align on the valve. Comp calls for .030" to .060" pre-load on the lifters. Set the cylinder your working on to TDC so the lifters are sitting on cam base(lowest piont on the lobe). Bring the lifters to 0 lash wich you can get by moving the pushrod up and down while slowly tigtening the rocker untill no movement of the pushrod is felt. 1 revolution after 0 lash is equal to .050" so i went 3/4 turn which is about .0365".
 

Attachments

  • BOTHHEADS.jpg
    BOTHHEADS.jpg
    64 KB · Views: 1,128
Next i just bolted the water pump on and the intake on which i assembles previously. The balancer was the next step. This goes on with a interfearence fit or pressed fit. Make sure you align the keyway!!!!!!. I put a straight edge on the key and drew a line with a marker. Did this on both sides of the keway to get an extended view of where the keyway was. I got a longer bolt with the same threads to pull the balancer in but i belive there is a tool that installs it with ease. Torque the bolt to 215 ft/lbs. Next i just assembled the intake a put that on. Make sure you seal the front and back of the intake well with silicon. Especially where the head meets the rail where the front and back of the intake sits. I bolted the H20 pump on as well which is self explanitory. I will post up the next step when i get there. Thats it fo now. Please let me know if you see anything i missed or anything that can be done differently or easier. Thanks!!!!
 

Attachments

  • ALMOSTDONE.jpg
    ALMOSTDONE.jpg
    77.4 KB · Views: 1,107
I would like to ask some questions on the bearing clearance decusion. Sorry if this seems to be off topic of the tread, if you wish I will start a new one, just say the word And I will do this & this post can be deleted.


I have built my own engines for years. Although I am use to a engine that has more beef to it ( big block Mopars) My best results have been using .001 - .0015 oil clearance ( prefered .001). This is tight I know, and everything has to be perfectly stight ( with crank torqued in I can still free spin with good coasting after the spin). These have been street/strip build that put out around 800hp (with NOS) and I have put as much as 100,000 miles on them before. After a tear down my cranks & bearings like like the day I put them in ( even with piston,rings & cylinder walls needing redunn ).


Now a turbo engine is a bit diff, and a Buick block doesnt have the beef or strenth of a old school big block. Is this the reason most go with looser oil clearance in the buick( there is alot of give when pushed this hard ). Or is it that most do not go threw what is nessesary to achive what is needed to have the block,crank as stright as needed to accomplish this.

The reason I ask is because I have seen the proof of having things this stright & close on the clearance. To me it seems that there is less room for movment and keeps the rods from beating the bearings & keeps the crank from flexing as much so the end results have always been exellent wear in the bottom end of my engines ( believe me my engines went to H*** and back in my cars) Driving as much as 200 miles to go race & then drive back and then was used as my daily drivers threw the whole years, even in the snow. Running a stick most of the time & shifting at 7200 with NOS on from line to line. They had no easy life but was maintanced very good also.


So what is the reason for this loose of oil clearance that most seem to have good luck with in the buick. Is it the block gives that much and it needs the room for flexing so things dont start binding under the load. Or is it that they are just not getting the Block & crank stright enough to function in this tight of clearance, or is it something to do with being turbo charged that creates this need.

I will be doing a Buick built this winter and it will be my first Buick built. I would have built off my own expierance & results because of my success with the way I had been doing. But it seems that there is something differant going on here that I need to be aware of and will probably need to go with the looser clearances, but I would kinda like to know why.

We use to have to freshen up my engine every year, but after spending the money to get things at the clearances meantioned I would run these engine for as long as four years before they would need a freshen up, and this was the cylinders & pistons and not the crank & bearings that was in need. I could not go against this because as they say the "proof was in the pudding"
But all engines are not the same. So maybe some of you expeiranced Buick builders can explain the reason I need to go looser.



Jess
 
WD-40 :D j/k, pretty much anything thats not synthetic, for break-in, T.A. 10w40 is what we use a lot of, or some rotella.
 
LUCKY1313------- i have no idea. The book said to go with .0015 - .0030. Ive herd that going a little on the loose side for a race motor is better so i shot for .0025. I have no proof or explination of whats better. Maybe some experts can chime in.
 
87we410877 said:
LUCKY1313------- i have no idea. The book said to go with .0015 - .0030. Ive herd that going a little on the loose side for a race motor is better so i shot for .0025. I have no proof or explination of whats better. Maybe some experts can chime in.


Thanks for the reply, I can see why you went with your clearances by the info you have been givin. And it seems that others have been threw this with the Buick & looser works for these motors. But I really would like to know why and was hoping that some of the experts could chime in on it myself, so maybe they can give us a good explanation for this need.

As far as oil for your engine, the Rotella is really proven to hold up in extreme engines. There is something going on with the Oil these days and only a few types and brands are providing the protection needed in a high performance engine. Sin oil doesnt seem to be that good.

Here is a good artical that explains this.
http://www.hughesengines.com/general/techArticleDetail.asp?articleID=1000039

Once you read it do a search on the HotRod mag site and there is more info that goes a little deaper into the subjuct and gives a good list of Oils that are worthy. And watch the Rotella, it is suppost to be changing but you will know buy the Specs given on the oil if it is the good oil after you read the artical. This was very interesting to me when I found out about this, in the early days we had found that Desiel oil had givin us good results on our engines but back in the day we didnt really know why expect it was better oil.


Oh BTW, that is a very good looking engine.

Jess
 
This thread is exactly why I will NEVER build my own v6 or v8 engines... I dont mind big clanky v-twin motorcycle engines that are not so picky, but it's just worth it to me to have someone who knows what they are doing do it all and me drop it in! :biggrin:

Good work! Fabricating stuff is one thing, but machining things down to .001 or less just does not appeal to me. I guess Im just a chicken :rolleyes:
 
87we410877 said:
What oil should i put in to break the motor in ?
Use straight 30W oil WITH a bottle of EOS
Pour 1/2 bottle of EOS in the filter and fill up the engine, pouring the other half in the engine. Prime the pump with a priming tool, every 90 deg crank rotation, for a full 720, untill you see oil comming out of each pushrod.
 
Jerryl said:
Use straight 30W oil WITH a bottle of EOS
Pour 1/2 bottle of EOS in the filter and fill up the engine, pouring the other half in the engine. Prime the pump with a priming tool, every 90 deg crank rotation, for a full 720, untill you see oil comming out of each pushrod.

Where can i get EOS?
 
Lucky1313

Check the Buick recommended bearing clearances. You are right--they call for much tighter clearances than most every one wants to run. It seems .001 scares most people. I shoot for .001 or as close to that as I can get using under size bearings or coating. Gotta love that good oil pressure. The stock V-6 oiling system has many 90 degree turns in it so radiusing oil passage turns and blueprinting the cover with smaller (.080 ) oil feed holes to the cam journals will go far. First eng. I had a local machine shop build the bottom end and I questioned his .003 main bearing clearance. "That is the way we build all our Chevy eng." Hot, cruising down the highway @ 60 MPH, I had 25 psi oil pressure. If built right, there is no need for HV oil pumps either. Best of luck.
 
Heres one with the infamous ebay headers on. I have to get out there and take some pics and update. Motor is in and running. Now i need to get tuned. I'll upload pics of the install this week with details.
 

Attachments

  • Engine Install 001.jpg
    Engine Install 001.jpg
    75.6 KB · Views: 1,015
Which ebay vendor are those headers from? JDM? SSAutoChrome? Drift-Pro's? Gawd those things are beautiful. Too bad they dont fit on so many cars.
 
Which ebay vendor are those headers from? JDM? SSAutoChrome? Drift-Pro's? Gawd those things are beautiful. Too bad they dont fit on so many cars.

Thoes are from JDMmotorz. They fit great except for some leakage at the v-band claps. I made a gasket and used about half a tube of high temp silicone and they stopped leaking. They look good cuz i have em lubed up w/ wd40. Little trick with stainless.
 
I don't understand something on one of your steps.

You said you put all the shims on the cam button, found end play at .018 so REMOVED a .010 shim and ended up with .008.

If you removed a .010 shim you'd end with .028 thou clearance.

Did I miss something?
 
Top