Going crazy, ptc torque doesn't want to go in the tranny.

evil666

Active Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2004
Two months ago I bought 2 9 1/2 n/l torque convertors, one for my brother and the other one for myself. I am going crazy, I can't get the torque to go into the tranny. After 2 hours of trying I decided to put back the 12 inch red stripe convertor in and it went all the way in on the first try. I figured something is wrong with my ptc. I called my brother the next day and asked him to bring his ptc torque so we could try his. After 1/2 hour of trying we got his to go in. So I got my hopes up and said if his went in my should aswell. After another 2 1/2 hours of trying, my brother and I never got the torque to go in the tranny. I can't see any diffferences between mine and my brother's from the outside, except for the fact that the splines inside my torque spin alot more freely then his. Is that normal? Has anyone with a PTC run in the same headache and problems as me?

This is going to be my new set-up: T-Top 86 Grand Nationals 109 block with weisco forged pistons and 2 billet center main caps, M&A aluminum heads, roller rockers, port match lower intake ,te63 a.r .82, erson 214/214 cam, smc alky injection (95 % etanol), 25.5lbs boost, 94 octane, hooker cat back with dyno max ultra flow muffers, kenne bell headers, 60 lbs injectors, extender alky chip with 23/21 timing, with a gen 2 with a LS1 maf,thdp, mease 24 row IC, PTC 3200 stall 9 1/2 convertor, Ron Custom max boost brake module, MT drag radials (275/60/15) , rjc power plate, rjc boost controller, zeitronix wideband, HR motor mounts, Weld Drag Lites with skinnies up front, electric exhaust, hr rear sway bar, no front sway bar, 90/10 lakewood in the front and 50/50 lakewood shocks in the rear with energy suspension poly bushings all over, boxed rear lower control arms, Big mouth cold air with an AFE air filt

Thanks alot for your help and tricks or suggestions, it will be greatly apreciated.
Marco.

T-Top 86 Grand National 62000 km)
stock long block, stock suspension, 12 inch red stripe convertor (2800stall), te44, smc alk injection (95 % etanol), 25.5lbs boost,( boost spike 28 psi in 1st gear), 94 octane, hooker cat back with dyno max ultra flow muffers, 42 ½ lbs 009 injectors, turbotweak alky chip with 23/21 timing, thdp, mease 24 row IC, Ron Custom max boost brake module, MT drag radials (275/50/15) 3720lbs race weight with driver. (Torque convertor locked only after car shifted in third), rjc power plate, rjc boost controller, zeitronix wideband, HR motor mounts, comp cam 980 valve springs. Weld Drag Lites with skinnies up front, electric exhaust cut-out.
BEST E/T
60FT=1.53
1/8= 7.25
1/4= 11.48
MPH=120.82
BEST 60FT=1.52

I have a gen 2 with an extender chip and LS1 maf, hr rear sway bar, no front sway bar, 90/10 lakewood in the front and 50/50 lakewood shocks in the rear with energy suspension poly bushings all over, boxed rear lower control arms. MT 275/60/15 drag radials. Big mouth cold air with an AFE air filter. The times above were done with out these parts.
 
Did you buy these converters new??? Contact Dusty Bradford on this forum. He is a PTC distributor and has helped many on the board with choosing the right stall and good customer service as well.

Tony...
 
These converters are very tight, i have spent a lot of time trying to get mine to go in before as well, ive never had this much trouble but they will go on, unless there is something wrong with yours...
 
btw, i know most don't have them laying around but if you have a stock pump stator and input shaft laying around you can stick it in the converter and get it all lined up beforehand and then just see where the tangs on the pump are and be sure to get it close when you slide it on. This has been my best trick so far although its still no garantee.
 
They are tough to line up, but patience will get it in. I thought I was going nuts cuz I installed mine with the tranny under the car, and it went in onthe first try. I took it off to make sure it was in all the way and fought it for a while. Keep trying, it has very tight tolerances.
 
I had the same problem with mine. It only took me about 6hrs to get mine to slide in.:eek: I finally had to stand my tranny on its end and make sure I got the splines lined up then finally had to use a block of wood and a hammer to get it to slide on. I then slid it back off to check things out, all was well. I done this a few times it now goes on fairly easy. It is worth it when you get it installed, this is the best convertor I have ever had!:)
 
Some converters can be pretty tight to engage on the pump. What I usually do is mark the position of the pump with a marker on the trans bell then, I scribe a mark on the converter to mark the position of the teeth. My PTC 9.5 took about 5 minutes to slide in place using this method.
 
Ive removed/installed several of these and it never took more than a few minutes to get one in. ive checked them prior to installation with a new stator support and they all were a nice snug slip fit. These are machined to take up all the slop that is usually there. I also sand the pilot and grease it well and be sure it slides in and out of the flywheel with no binding before bolting the converter in.
 
Is it ok to put some general bearing grease on the splines, or could this grease contaminate the tranny oil in the future?

This is going to be my new set-up: T-Top 86 Grand Nationals 109 block with weisco forged pistons and 2 billet center main caps, M&A aluminum heads, roller rockers, port match lower intake ,te63 a.r .82, erson 214/214 cam, smc alky injection (95 % etanol), 25.5lbs boost, 94 octane, hooker cat back with dyno max ultra flow muffers, kenne bell headers, 60 lbs injectors, extender alky chip with 23/21 timing, with a gen 2 with a LS1 maf,thdp, mease 24 row IC, PTC 3200 stall 9 1/2 convertor, Ron Custom max boost brake module, MT drag radials (275/60/15) , rjc power plate, rjc boost controller, zeitronix wideband, HR motor mounts, Weld Drag Lites with skinnies up front, electric exhaust, hr rear sway bar, no front sway bar, 90/10 lakewood in the front and 50/50 lakewood shocks in the rear with energy suspension poly bushings all over, boxed rear lower control arms, Big mouth cold air with an AFE air filt

Marco.

T-Top 86 Grand National 62000 km)
stock long block, stock suspension, 12 inch red stripe convertor (2800stall), te44, smc alk injection (95 % etanol), 25.5lbs boost,( boost spike 28 psi in 1st gear), 94 octane, hooker cat back with dyno max ultra flow muffers, 42 ½ lbs 009 injectors, turbotweak alky chip with 23/21 timing, thdp, mease 24 row IC, Ron Custom max boost brake module, MT drag radials (275/50/15) 3720lbs race weight with driver. (Torque convertor locked only after car shifted in third), rjc power plate, rjc boost controller, zeitronix wideband, HR motor mounts, comp cam 980 valve springs. Weld Drag Lites with skinnies up front, electric exhaust cut-out.
BEST E/T
60FT=1.53
1/8= 7.25
1/4= 11.48
MPH=120.82
BEST 60FT=1.52

I have a gen 2 with an extender chip and LS1 maf, hr rear sway bar, no front sway bar, 90/10 lakewood in the front and 50/50 lakewood shocks in the rear with energy suspension poly bushings all over, boxed rear lower control arms. MT 275/60/15 drag radials. Big mouth cold air with an AFE air filter. The times above were done with out these parts.
 
Just went through this a few weeks ago...PTC conv just didn't want to go in the last 1/4" or so...after about an hour...tranny was under the car...I took my foot...turned the conv with it and pushed at the same time...finally went in...the problem was with my hands I couldn't get any type of leverage to push in the conv with the trans under the car...it will go in...
 
I had the same problem in Jan when install PTC. I also had to a block of wood and hit in mildly with a hammer.
 
They are a snug fit. It has taken me an hour before and I do it all the time. Everything has to be lined up just right. Sometimes they go on in within a couple seconds, sometimes you think it will never go. I've had a couple returned, took them out back and slid them right on the tranny. Every unit is also slid on a test pump before it goes out the door. One was returned and had a bur internally from where the customer had tried forcing it on when it wasn't lined up.

What you have to watch for is any rough spots on the stator support or input shaft. I have taken a file and filed in between the splines on both to make sure it's a smooth surface. Any inperfection can cause them to bind. If you get rough enough with it and mark the internal pieces it may not go on.

Generally I set the tranny on a bench. Put the converter on the stator support and begin spinning it with one hand. When I spin it, I try to pick the converter up to take some weight off of the unit so the converter isn't fully supported by the input and stator support. I use the other hand to pull up slightly on the pilot and push in with pressure so the converter will slide into the pump when it lines up. I have had to rotate the output shaft before with the tranny in gear to get the input shaft in a different location and then try again.
 
if you are using a CK billet input shaft they are built to a tighter tolerance and can compound the problem
 
Trans Oil Or Vasaline Will Melt And Not Cause Any Sticking Valves .....are You Sure Your Stator Shaft Is Not Badly Worn Out Or Slightly Expanded If It Is A Heat Treated Model....i Just Slid A Spare Input Shaft And Stator In The Same Ptc You Purchaced At About The Same Time ,,,they Both Slide In Like Butter And Spin Freely.....stand The Trans By The Talishaft In A Plastic Tub To Let The Oil Drain Out And Let Gravity Install The Torque For You By Spinning And Lifting ,spining And Lifting....it Will Fall In Place ...if You Find Splines To Tight ,clean Splines With Drill And Wire Brush ......this Is What I Would Do With No Special Tools..
 
Trans Oil Or Vasaline Will Melt And Not Cause Any Sticking Valves .....are You Sure Your Stator Shaft Is Not Badly Worn Out Or Slightly Expanded If It Is A Heat Treated Model....i Just Slid A Spare Input Shaft And Stator In The Same Ptc You Purchaced At About The Same Time ,,,they Both Slide In Like Butter And Spin Freely.....stand The Trans By The Talishaft In A Plastic Tub To Let The Oil Drain Out And Let Gravity Install The Torque For You By Spinning And Lifting ,spining And Lifting....it Will Fall In Place ...if You Find Splines To Tight ,clean Splines With Drill And Wire Brush ......this Is What I Would Do With No Special Tools..

I don`t think that my stator shaft is badly worn out, because I get my red stripe convertor to fit on the first shot and I got my brother`s PTC torque on after 1/2 hour of trying.

Sorry to ask this question again but its because I didn't get an anwser for it, is it ok to put some general bearing grease on the splines, or could this grease contaminate the tranny oil in the future?

Thanks,
Marco

This is going to be my new set-up: T-Top 86 Grand Nationals 109 block with weisco forged pistons and 2 billet center main caps, M&A aluminum heads, roller rockers, port match lower intake ,te63 a.r .82, erson 214/214 cam, smc alky injection (95 % etanol), 25.5lbs boost, 94 octane, hooker cat back with dyno max ultra flow muffers, kenne bell headers, 60 lbs injectors, extender alky chip with 23/21 timing, with a gen 2 with a LS1 maf,thdp, mease 24 row IC, PTC 3200 stall 9 1/2 convertor, Ron Custom max boost brake module, MT drag radials (275/60/15) , rjc power plate, rjc boost controller, zeitronix wideband, HR motor mounts, Weld Drag Lites with skinnies up front, electric exhaust, hr rear sway bar, no front sway bar, 90/10 lakewood in the front and 50/50 lakewood shocks in the rear with energy suspension poly bushings all over, boxed rear lower control arms, Big mouth cold air with an AFE air filt

Marco.

T-Top 86 Grand National 62000 km)
stock long block, stock suspension, 12 inch red stripe convertor (2800stall), te44, smc alk injection (95 % etanol), 25.5lbs boost,( boost spike 28 psi in 1st gear), 94 octane, hooker cat back with dyno max ultra flow muffers, 42 ½ lbs 009 injectors, turbotweak alky chip with 23/21 timing, thdp, mease 24 row IC, Ron Custom max boost brake module, MT drag radials (275/50/15) 3720lbs race weight with driver. (Torque convertor locked only after car shifted in third), rjc power plate, rjc boost controller, zeitronix wideband, HR motor mounts, comp cam 980 valve springs. Weld Drag Lites with skinnies up front, electric exhaust cut-out.
BEST E/T
60FT=1.53
1/8= 7.25
1/4= 11.48
MPH=120.82
BEST 60FT=1.52

I have a gen 2 with an extender chip and LS1 maf, hr rear sway bar, no front sway bar, 90/10 lakewood in the front and 50/50 lakewood shocks in the rear with energy suspension poly bushings all over, boxed rear lower control arms. MT 275/60/15 drag radials. Big mouth cold air with an AFE air filter. The times above were done with out these parts.
 
Do You Think I Am Kidding About The Vasealine ,,,,,what Do You Think The Tranny Guys Are Useing ,,so They Put A Little Red Dye....
 
Top