How much power with a 60-1?

Hey Brian,

How much timing do you use with the C16-Alky tune at max boost? Thanks

Datar
 
Hey Brian,

How much timing do you use with the C16-Alky tune at max boost? Thanks

Datar
it only made 23-24 psi with the wastegate closed 100%. 23-24*. thats actual timing. Not indicated timing.
 
The peak number was 592whp. I had the PAC alky set on about 4.5 and the dc was 58-59% with 3105 injectors and about 45psi baseline pressure. 16v. Ill post the dyno graph later.


View attachment 151110

WOW! At 23 PSI, my calculator says 592HP. How much torque?
Definately pushng the 60-1!
Thanks for sharing!
 
Bison's is a Tnetics 59mm / 76 p trim with pte. 85 if I am not mistaken. ?

Joe

Yeah. T04s (old cover) 60-1. I put a 3 bolt housing on. They never came that way. The Garrett and t netics comp wheels are identical except t netics uses a large shaft.
 
nice power for 23psi!motor is doing its job and using up every amount of air that 61 can flow.
 
bison do you feel you need the race gas/alky to let the 61 eat or could this be achieved with pump gas/alky?
 
nice power for 23psi!motor is doing its job and using up every amount of air that 61 can flow.

It's a 59mm not a 61. It's highest mass flow is around that pressure ratio. The engine makes a difference.
 
bison do you feel you need the race gas/alky to let the 61 eat or could this be achieved with pump gas/alky?

If you mean 60-1 then yes you can make more power with c16 on a different tune than you can with alky/93. I would have ran 2* less timing for starters and likely ran a slightly richer targe though I never leaned this one for power on the dyno. That goes for anything. Simply switching fuels without changing the tune does about nothing.
 
Bison thanks for taking the time to post this info. I'd be interested to know the motor build, heads, cam, etc. My setup is listed in my sig. Long story short, I just got my car going again this past summer. I never got it to the strip to see if a good tune and a few other minor upgrades would make any difference. It was just too hot this past summer and in the fall I never could line up a weekend to get out to Milan.
I do have one last upgrade performance upgrade, a better IC. Once that is installed here in April or May, I'll make time to get to the strip and get some time slips. See how far I can go with my setup. This has a motivating thread for me. In the sense that, I haven't taken time to see what I can do with my setup now and already looking forward to my next upgrade. Have to stop that. I have been 11.88, with a not so good tune and a boost leak. So I'm sure there is more there, just got to tap into it.

Again thanks for the info., I hope you get to read.
 
Bison thanks for taking the time to post this info. I'd be interested to know the motor build, heads, cam, etc. My setup is listed in my sig. Long story short, I just got my car going again this past summer. I never got it to the strip to see if a good tune and a few other minor upgrades would make any difference. It was just too hot this past summer and in the fall I never could line up a weekend to get out to Milan.
I do have one last upgrade performance upgrade, a better IC. Once that is installed here in April or May, I'll make time to get to the strip and get some time slips. See how far I can go with my setup. This has a motivating thread for me. In the sense that, I haven't taken time to see what I can do with my setup now and already looking forward to my next upgrade. Have to stop that. I have been 11.88, with a not so good tune and a boost leak. So I'm sure there is more there, just got to tap into it.

Again thanks for the info., I hope you get to read.
The engine is basically stock stroke TSM/THS type build with about .75-1 point less CR than an engine like that would run. GN1 race ported heads. The cam is a hyd 218 of my own lobe selection with upwards of .600 lift. The cam($450-500), lifters($425), rockers ($900), springs/retainers/locks ($400-500 at least) , including locators, shims, and other associated parts to run the cam im running are about $2200-2300 worth of parts. Probably more after you tack on the shipping and aggravation from ordering the wrong stuff and having to send it back. There are no kits listed for sale by vendors that can be bought with these parts. Everything is bought separately and made to work. I had to cut the guides near the top to run .500 seals because the inner springs i.d. was too small to clear the .530 supplied guide o.d dimension. Tom Allen at Champion turned me on to the springs based on the required pressures i needed for the ramp, duration and lift im running and gave me a good deal on the springs, retainers, and locks. The heads also required me to mill the pushrod holes out quite a but since the pushrods would hit them if i didnt. The difference between an engine like this and what is typically run are significant. Nothing here is really a bolt on. It was bought with intentions of making more power and smoothed out to work together. Probably about 100-125whp more at the same boost than a typical bolt on engine with "similar" duration cam and other supporting parts. There could have been more done to extract more out of the 60-1 but it wasnt built to run a small compressor like that. It was just a test to see what it would do on this engine. If i was milking the 60-1 i probably would have ran a 10:1 CR a slightly smaller cam profile, 1-2* more timing and q16/no alky with a leaner target than i ran in this test. The car would need less rear gear also to take advantage of all that cylinder pressure it would have if i built it around the 60-1 specifically.
 
The engine is basically stock stroke TSM/THS type build with about .75-1 point less CR than an engine like that would run. GN1 race ported heads. The cam is a hyd 218 of my own lobe selection with upwards of .600 lift. The cam($450-500), lifters($425), rockers ($900), springs/retainers/locks ($400-500 at least) , including locators, shims, and other associated parts to run the cam im running are about $2200-2300 worth of parts. Probably more after you tack on the shipping and aggravation from ordering the wrong stuff and having to send it back. There are no kits listed for sale by vendors that can be bought with these parts. Everything is bought separately and made to work. I had to cut the guides near the top to run .500 seals because the inner springs i.d. was too small to clear the .530 supplied guide o.d dimension. Tom Allen at Champion turned me on to the springs based on the required pressures i needed for the ramp, duration and lift im running and gave me a good deal on the springs, retainers, and locks. The heads also required me to mill the pushrod holes out quite a but since the pushrods would hit them if i didnt. The difference between an engine like this and what is typically run are significant. Nothing here is really a bolt on. It was bought with intentions of making more power and smoothed out to work together. Probably about 100-125whp more at the same boost than a typical bolt on engine with "similar" duration cam and other supporting parts. There could have been more done to extract more out of the 60-1 but it wasnt built to run a small compressor like that. It was just a test to see what it would do on this engine. If i was milking the 60-1 i probably would have ran a 10:1 CR a slightly smaller cam profile, 1-2* more timing and q16/no alky with a leaner target than i ran in this test. The car would need less rear gear also to take advantage of all that cylinder pressure it would have if i built it around the 60-1 specifically.

Wow, that is pretty impressive. You're orders of magnitude ahead me in knowledge. I know the components, just don't know the associations. Maybe I won't get much more out of my setup. However, I will continue to read and try and make educated decisions in the future.
 
Wow, that is pretty impressive. You're orders of magnitude ahead me in knowledge. I know the components, just don't know the associations. Maybe I won't get much more out of my setup. However, I will continue to read and try and make educated decisions in the future.
You can get a lot more out of that combo. Probably 11.30's without going too crazy. Ive seen the TA49 run 11.40's with a 3600lb car on a stock longblock including stock valve springs. Others have gone a lot faster on that small compressor/turbine. The quickest on a 49 was 10.80's on an unopened engine except valve springs. Start with some really tall tires
 
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