Kirbans ZDDP

BB Turbo

...Since by design it's supposed to "liberate" or burn/react at that temperature I'm wondering what it will do at the bearing(s) in a double BB turbo...

Manufacturer says to use synthetic due to higher breakdown temps. for less possible burning and smoke, I am wondering what the ZDDP additive will do for or against this type of use.. :p

ZDDP does not function by "burning". It is a low temperature chemical bonding to the cam. There are two things to consider here. If there were a problem with using this product (ZddPlus) with your new ball bearing turbo that would also mean that the manufacturer feels that it should not be used with expensive high quality racing oils that usually or have in the past contained lots of ZDDP. I really don't think that could be possible. Another thing is that you have to comprehend just how thin the ZDDP buildup is. The crank bearings in your turbo regal engine have a clearance of about .001 to .0015 inches. At its maximum the buildup on a rubbing cam never exceeds 120 um. This is .0000047 in inches. I sorta doubt that 5 millionths of an inch is going to be a problem. Chances are best that if there is a film build-up at all, that this additional film will actually help your turbo.
 
My farewell post to this thread

V6----I felt that I would respond to your comments one more time------I am not a triboligist and even with the little that I know I can clearly see that you are not one either-------for the two of us to continue to argue about a subject that neither of are experts at is not only comical, it is moronic and I choose to end it with this final post----I have way more important things to keep me busy---------feel free to trump me and impress everyone

“Moly builds up in microscopic crevices...and it doesnt require ALOT of moly to do so. It can really mess things up if you go overboard.
It fills in honing cross hatches to some degree, fills in grooves in bearings, etc… Look up the moly content in Valvoline SYN oil treament, or GM's EOS or any good additive. They all have TONS of moly.”


By this description it sounds as if you are referring to a colloidal form of Molybdenum Disulfide. A suspension of insoluble MoS2 has been used as a friction modifier in greases for many years, and is effective in this application. There is little published research supporting it’s efficacy in engine oils as an EP agent. There are other forms of “moly”, which are organic and oil soluble and used as EP agents in engine oil:
Molybdenum dithiophosphate is the most common, and it works in a manner similar to ZDDP; it is an organic molecule which decomposes thermally and releases molybdenum, phosphorus, and sulfur which combine to form a glassy matrix which serves as a wear surface in a manner similar to ZDDP. There is some published research showing the applicability of this form of molybdenum as an EP oil additive1
1“Antifriction action of engine oil additives”, A. Vipper, I. Zadko, A. Karaulov, M. Ermolaev, Scientific and Engineering Centre, LUKOIL Oil Company, Moscow, Russia, Wiley Interscience, Volume 14, Issue 1 , Pages 43 – 56


One reason why MDDP has not found as much applicability in engine oils may have to do with the fact that it does not exhibit the same anti-corrosive characteristics as ZDDP produced using an overbased ZnO. MDDP is soluble in oil therefore it does not have a characteristic of filling in microscopic crevices or any other gap filling action like some forms of MoS2.

In the concentrations which EP additives are used in engine oils, it is easy to determine what form of the Molybdenum is used. MoS2 is a dark solid, and when held in suspension turns oil very dark at low concentrations. If the oil is close to normal straw color, the molybdenum is the MDDS or other form such as Molybdenum carbamate.

“There isnt a bunch of sludge in the gas that the oil is cleaning out. If you need detergent, the engine has bigger problems....like maybe needing an air filter.”

The detergent package in oil is not there to hold dirt that enters the engine through the intake air in suspension. The detergent chemistry is designed to create a molecule which has both oliophilic and polar characteristics, that is it is soluble in oil, yet enters into polar reactions with carbon and metal oxides among other elements. Its main purpose is to react with and hold in suspension byproducts of both combustion and oil decomposition. The primary component of complete gasoline combustion is H2O. Since the engine parts exposed to combustion typically (after warm-up) operate close to or above 100C (212 F), little overt condensation occurs inside the cylinder itself, but consider the conditions immediately after the combustion: The cylinder pressure and temperature is extremely high, and a there is a thin film of oil on the cylinder walls. Due to the relatively low concentration of H2O in the oil, and the extreme vapor pressure of the H2O in the combustion gases, some of the H2O in the combustion gases diffuse into the oil, and as a result are returned to the sump. There most H2O evaporates, but some enters into reactions with both the detergent and sulfur, some of it forming H2SO4 (sulfuric acid). In the same way, carbon in the form of CO2, CO, and C enter the sump and also react with the oil components. If the carbon and high carbon-bearing decomposed oil were to not be chemically scavenged, they would form sludge. The detergent package helps keep sludging minimized by reacting with this carbon as well as carbon formed by the thermal decomposition of the oil itself in the cylinder as well as internally in the engine, which as you point out, occurs in “hot-spots” in the block and heads.

“What is blow-by? by-products of burning gasoline? NO. Its burning oil vapor. This burning oil vapor...the vapor that the PCV doesnt recycle...this vapor precipitates all over the ceiling of the motor's internals and re-condenses into oil again, but this oil is damaged and acidic...and eventually, 100% of that oil has been vaporized at one point in its life. Hook up a catch can setup and do a Ph test on the accumulated oil vs. new or used oil the the crankcase.”

Blow-by is the sum of evaporated substances from the sump charge and combustion gases that have passed by the rings and gasses that diffused into the oil and outgas in the sump. A simple check of crankcase pressure in a sealed crankcase engine will show that it is rapidly pressurized by combustion blow-by, not from oil evaporation. If there were no blow-by the rings, and your oil did not decompose, there would be no reason to scavenge or vent the crankcase. In order to understand why, remember that the primary mode by which oil prevents metal-to-metal contact is a hydrodynamic film. This means that the film itself provides the spacing of the ring from the cylinder wall. In one ASTM paper the author notes: “The differences in blow-by control observed with multigraded oils appear to correlate with their viscosities at temperatures well above 210°F (98.9°C). Other factors such as temporary shear loss may play a part as indicated by qualitative observations. The same general trends were also confirmed in an unmodified multicylinder gasoline engine.”2
2 ”A Study of the Significance of Lubricant Viscosity in Blow-By Control”, Neveu C, ASTM publications #STP34805S, Jan 1977

There is enough documentation to show the relationship between engine wear, oil viscosity, and amount of blow-by to conclude that with a given engine, the amount of blow-by is proportional to oil viscosity. We have seen no documentation which supports the contention that two different types of oil which have similar flash or autoignition points and of the same viscosity allow different amounts of blow-by. If the Royal Purple company has data from a test performed to ASTM or other reputable test methods showing otherwise, I would like to see them. The assertion that moly “fills in crosshatch and more completely seals the combustion chamber” has been made by many molybdenum, Teflon, and graphite oil additives, but no study we have found supports this.

“As for federal involvement...Saving gas isnt the number 1 priority with congress. Not even priority number 1,000,000. If they cared, we'd all be driving hydrogen cars by now. The technology to convert water to hydrogen in sufficient quantities to power a car has been around for quite awhile. My uncle made one of these machines in 8th grade and mounted it to a remote controlled car. This was 1965. Trust me, gas prices arent so high because of "peak", they're high because of greedy scum.”

LOLOL – I agree that oil prices are high due to greed, but that is beside the point I was trying to make, which was: Due to the US Gov’t establishing fuel economy guidelines via the CAFÉ standards, there is a H.U.G.E. financial incentive for automotive manufacturers to increase the fuel economy of their fleets each year. They pay enormous penalties for each point below target MPG. With this in mind, any inexpensive measure that a manufacturer could make to increase the fuel economy of their fleet would pay itself back in spades; especially since they could charge whatever it cost back to the customer! This pressure on CAFÉ is what has made the automotive manufacturers turn to the oil companies and DEMAND that they find a way to lower parasitic frictional losses in the engine via oil technology. With all of the resources that the oil and automotive companies have at their disposal, the best they have been able to come up with is two categories of API “Energy Saving” oils: Energy Conserving, which has to show a 1.5% (that is percent, not MPG) increase, and Energy Conserving II, which must show a 2.7% increase in order to merit the certification. If there was an ingredient that would save even a small amount of frictional loss in the oil, it would be in there from the factory! Consider that your claim for your magic oil is 2 MPG better than the 16 MPG without. That would be a 12.5% increase! If you truly believe that you have seen this, the only reasonable explanation is changes in driving conditions or speeds.

“Ok....zinc and phosphorous are a sacrificial layer that the lifter wipes away with every rotation of the cam...instead of the lifter wiping off a layer of metal from the lobe..right? If moly cannot perform the duty of ZDDP (zinc and phosphorous basically), then why does every cam manufacturer hand you a tube of moly paste to coat the lifters and lobes in? Because you cant coat the lobes with a sacrificial layer of zinc and phosphorous by hand, but you CAN add moly, which works just as well if not better...its just that your oil pump would have a hard time pumping moly paste through your engine. Dont forget, molybdenum is a mineral as well...and acts as a sacrifical layer.”

A lot of misinformation is on the net and elsewhere regarding how ZDDP works. It is not surprising after some thought that most of the significant research into how ZDDP works has been performed in recent years. Prior to this, the prevailing thought is that it just plain works. Until the industry was forced to look for an alternative, there was not as much pressure to fully understand how it worked. Most current research states that after a short period of rubbing at a frictional interface, the ZDDP begins to chemically interact with the base Iron of the cam and lifter, and builds “pads” of Zinc, Phosphorus and Sulfur glass-like compound which gradually increase in thickness until they reach about 120nM in thickness. This film does NOT get wiped off easily, indeed, after reaching the 120nM thickness, if one substitutes oil without ZDDP, the pad of glassy deposit will stay for a long period of time, depending on contact pressure and other variables. Since the material does continue to deposit, yet the overall pad thickness does not appreciably increase, speculation is that the additional elements are held in suspension. Since a primary function of ZDDP is acid neutralizing, this means that the decomposed ZDDP, although no longer involved as an EP agent, still serves a function in the oil. As stated earlier, the molybdenum version MDDP which is in transparent “moly” oils does not exhibit this same behavior.

Manufacturers coat new cams with moly paste for one reason: ZDDP is a relatively low viscosity oil-like substance that creates a reaction film which takes a little while to form. From the time a cam is installed in an engine until the time that it is initially started, ZDDP would have dripped off. This situation calls for a grease, and moly grease is a good initial lubricant until the ZDDP in the oil makes its way to the cam and begins to build a film. This is the ONLY reason that moly grease is used at assembly. We have researched this area of automotive engine tribiology extensively, and have found NO impartial, believable research that concludes that moly can perform even satisfactorily as an EP agent in a flat lifter engine without ZDDP present as well.

It is difficult for lay people such as you and me to adequately support viewpoints that are not in turn supported by believable, peer-reviewed research. One point you bring up is true, there is a large amount of greed at corporate levels, which drives them to maximize profits. If you fully accept this maxim, then you will agree with the fact that they will do whatever they can to minimize losses due to Government fines for CAFÉ violations, Emission violations, equipment failure in warranty, and any other loss.
From this it is essential to realize that:
1) If there was an oil that gave a CAFÉ gain, car manufacturers would test their cars with it, and at least provide it in the initial fill to validate their claims.
2) Automotive manufacturers are demanding oils without phosphorus ONLY in an effort to not pay fines for violating emissions mandates. If this pressure was not existent, we would not even be having a discussion as to what EP agent can replace ZDDP.
3) This same greed which guides the actions above also make additive manufacturers claim whatever they can for their product. Any claim only becomes believable when substantiated by controlled tests following accepted ASTM or other methodology. It is this adherence to testing methodology which has given us the very vehicles we drive, not a bunch of “claims”, or “testimonials” which are suspect at best.

Even with the emission standards pressure, car manufacturers are STILL putting large amounts in the initial fill at the factory. In a report from 2004, well into the era of diminishing ZDDP in oil, author H. Spikes states:
“Two out of three of the major United States automobile manufacturers either require zinc dithiophosphate at about 1% of an 80% concentrate in the initial fill in new automobiles or require qualification tests which only zinc dithiophosphate can pass.”
2 The history and mechanisms of ZDDP, H. Spikes, Tribology Letters, Vol. 17, No. 3, October 2004, 471

I doubt that anything I say will sway you from your dedication to your moly oil. If you made your decisions based on fact supported by research and concluding data, we would not even be having this debate. It is more important to me that other people reading this exchange pay close attention to the method by which they form their own opinions. I am not putting forth any idea of my own; I am merely bringing to light established facts in automotive engineering, some of which unfortunately conflict with your unsubstantiated beliefs. My involvement regarding this issue should be clear to all. When something surfaced that appeared to threaten the continued enjoyment of the cars we all love I felt compelled to take action. I did not see anyone else step up to the plate on this issue. I had the knowledge, concern and resources to do it, and I did what I felt needed to be done. Sorry if you disagree with my course of action and sorry if i have crossed you. I have never intended to defraud or mislead anyone with ZddPlus and the few members of this board that know me I am sure would testify to that. Certainly everyone else is free to make their own decision about this as well and hopefully they will make the right one.......................RC
 
If you do a search, there are oils that have the required amounts of z&p for less than a bottle of the additive mentioned. At least 3 manufacturers are selling it now. If you want to save a few $, don't be lazy, do a search.

When it first became available you could get a six-pack for around 30-35 bucks.

Now it's about $150.00 for a six-pack. 5 x higher in such a short period. Wow!

I can't afford those prices. Today, I went and bought gold stock by accident; picked the wrong mineral/minerals. Time to check the mining stocks for (Z&P).

I heard we will run out of them in 587 years. Somehow I haven't been scared enough, politics have taken care of all my chicken little urges. :)
 
If you do a search, there are oils that have the required amounts of z&p for less than a bottle of the additive mentioned. At least 3 manufacturers are selling it now. If you want to save a few $, don't be lazy, do a search.

When it first became available you could get a six-pack for around 30-35 bucks.

Now it's about $150.00 for a six-pack. 5 x higher in such a short period. Wow!

I can't afford those prices. Today, I went and bought gold stock by accident; picked the wrong mineral/minerals. Time to check the mining stocks for (Z&P).

I heard we will run out of them in 587 years. Somehow I haven't been scared enough, politics have taken care of all my chicken little urges. :)

where'd you see it for $150 per 6 pack????---------i don't know of anyone thats charging more than $60 dollars for 6 bottles.............RC
 
where'd you see it for $150 per 6 pack????---------i don't know of anyone thats charging more than $60 dollars for 6 bottles.............RC

x2 :confused:


you must be talking about exotic synthetic oils not zddp alone
 
where'd you see it for $150 per 6 pack????---------i don't know of anyone thats charging more than $60 dollars for 6 bottles.............RC

Here's what happened.

Saw it here (early thread and posts at the *6 for $30*price that was advertised) and since the Porsche community (I have a Turbo Porsche) uses the oils that have at least 12% Z&P *some 15%, I'm very familiar with it's use. You also should have the right mixture of detergents in the oil by the way (I won't go into that now). I have also been using oils that contain Z&P in the Turbo Buick and my other older cars for many years. I've even used Castor Bean Motor Oil (Castrol-R) in my race cars. Too bad it can't be used in normal driving. As I recall, additives weren't even needed with the Castrol-R. Back on topic.................

I sent an email to a vendor and they sent me a price quote. Here's the conflicting part. After your above quote, I went to their site. And guess what? Their NON-PRIVATE price to the general public is (as you stated)
NOT OVER $60.00 TO THE GENERAL PUBLIC.

Whatever? I would have gone for the 6 for 30 price, but anything over is getting pronged IMO. I just thought I'd try it (mixed with one of the newer low in Z&P grade oils) and then send a sample out to be tested after running it for a while.

I wouldn't take a FREE CASE after that ploy. Sad to see. Obviously, there must be a market for those who can't spend a few minutes researching this topic.

I'll just continue using the oils that I have been using for years. They have the same amounts of additives as they had in 1976, when I bought my first of a few Turbo Porsches. I've mentioned the Porsche, because they are sticklers for the proper additives, especially in their earlier air-cooled engines. They continue to be so, in their current water cooled ones as well.

I won't list the site that contains the information on these oils as I don't want to make it seem like I'm trying to promote them. But they are under $10.00 a quart and contain the additives that have been taken out of the newer Politically/Environmentally Correct oils.

Looks like someone made an error and it wasn't me.

Good Luck,

WGB
 
turbo, I suspect you are referring to some oil brands sold at the local Porsche dealers and not any generic over the counter at your autoparts stores. I have seen these oils when I take my daughters Mercedes in for service, I have no idea the content or additives in those oils, but there are some specifically for air cooled engines and I sure wouldn't put that in my non-air cooled engines.
As for cost, those oils are around $7-8 a qt, thats $35 for an oil change minimum..... with the ZDDPlus, you spend $3qt for your favorite generic oil at your closest auto parts store, and add the $10 bottle of ZDDPlus....thats $28 and I don't have to go across town to the Porsche dealer....where's the economics of what you are saying??

It's no secret that there are some exotic oils out there with the proper amounts, but finding them and them having the right other additives for our cars for normal driving and not race applications with no detergents is very hard to find.
If your talking about oils that can be found at your local parts store...then you better read all 4 pages above as its been proven that todays SM rated oils have little to no ZDDP..If your reading oil analyisis content posting, you better find out how old the tests were as the content of the additives is changing very rapidly.
 
ebay zppd

I bought the stuff that is being sold on Ebay. It looks like regular motor oil-golden brown. I hope it was actually the ZPPD. Otherwise I wasted my $. What is it supposed to look like when you pour it out of the bottle?
 
I bought the stuff that is being sold on Ebay. It looks like regular motor oil-golden brown. I hope it was actually the ZPPD. Otherwise I wasted my $. What is it supposed to look like when you pour it out of the bottle?
-----

it looks almost clear with a slight golden tint------hard to tell from motor oil except for a chemical analysis or by weight-----want to know with 99% certainty if its real???????? motor oil is lighter than water and we all know it floats------ZddPlus is much denser than oil and slightly denser than water-------place the unopened container in a tall glass of water-------ZddPlus will sink so that only a small portion of the cap is above the water------there is a small amount of air in the bottle and a foam seal in the cap that keeps it from totally sinking------topping the ZddPlus with motor oil to displace the air will cause the bottle cap to sink below the surface---------the same container topped off with only motor oil will float with the entire cap and a small portion of the bottle out of the water-------
------if you bought it from navone engineering, carsounddave, kirban, GSCA, world of motorworks, autosound 2000--------I'll guarantee its real--------for the last two months all the labels have been the same except for the contact name on the back----ie red and black with the trademarked logo ZddPlus-------there was an initial label that was white with blue/purple lettering that came in blue or white bottles-------real stuff inside just not the final label design.....................RC
 
a little humor....in shop class!!!

-----

it looks almost clear with a slight golden tint------hard to tell from motor oil except for a chemical analysis or by weight-----want to know with 99% certainty if its real???????? motor oil is lighter than water and we all know it floats------ZddPlus is much denser than oil and slightly denser than water-------place the unopened container in a tall glass of water-------ZddPlus will sink so that only a small portion of the cap is above the water------there is a small amount of air in the bottle and a foam seal in the cap that keeps it from totally sinking------topping the ZddPlus with motor oil to displace the air will cause the bottle cap to sink below the surface---------the same container topped off with only motor oil will float with the entire cap and a small portion of the bottle out of the water-------
------if you bought it from navone engineering, carsounddave, kirban, GSCA, world of motorworks, autosound 2000--------I'll guarantee its real--------for the last two months all the labels have been the same except for the contact name on the back----ie red and black with the trademarked logo ZddPlus-------there was an initial label that was white with blue/purple lettering that came in blue or white bottles-------real stuff inside just not the final label design.....................RC

WOW!!! Here is a chance for us to do a lil’ experimenting :D . Hopefully we will not BLOW anything-up in the chemistry lab:biggrin: .
We just received our ZddPlus and decided to do the “experiment” in the school’s chemistry lab. Yes Sir…..it sunk in a beaker fill with water(just the tip of the cap was out of the water) :cool: . Also, “you know how KIDS are” one of them did the “SMELL” test—very scientific to say the least—THEY said “it don’t smell like regular motor oil”. With a laugh, I told them “yep, real thang, OK.. back to the shop and change the oil”!!!!!! :smile: Is it the real thing- HECK YA, we just proved it!!!! :cool: SERIOUS, MAYBE I AM A TRUSTING PERSON..... but time will tell as in ALL things. :)
O’yea we purchased ours' from E-bay (carguyjr )--- as wrote in above post “world of motorworks” was on the info. sheet that was in the package and the price $59.70 with $8.00 shipping for 6 bottles of 4 oz. ZDDPlus.

MERRY CHRISTMAS and Keep CHRIST in Christmas!!!!!!
 
turbo, I suspect you are referring to some oil brands sold at the local Porsche dealers and not any generic over the counter at your autoparts stores.

SUPSPECTED WRONG!

but there are some specifically for air cooled engines and I sure wouldn't put that in my non-air cooled engines.

READ MORE CAREFULLY...I've mentioned the Porsche, because they are sticklers for the proper additives, especially in their earlier air-cooled engines. They continue to be so, in their current water cooled ones as well. I HAVE A WATER COOLED TURBO THAT YOU DON'T EVEN HAVE A CLUE ABOUT, OTHERWISE YOU WOULDN'T HAVE MADE THE AIR COOLED COMMENT; PORSCHE HASN'T CHANGED THEIR MINDS ON THE NEWEST "WATER" MODELS.


As for cost, those oils are around $7-8 a qt, thats $35 for an oil change minimum..... with the ZDDPlus, you spend $3qt for your favorite generic oil at your closest auto parts store, and add the $10 bottle of ZDDPlus....thats $28 and I don't have to go across town to the Porsche dealer....where's the economics of what you are saying??

28 DOLLARS? I'M NOT A CHEAPO WHEN IT COMES TO OIL FOR AN ENGINE.

WHO BUYS OIL FROM A PORSCHE DEALER? YOU JUST DON'T GET IT. OH, I FORGOT. I ALWAYS GO TO MY BUICK DEALER TO BY OIL, NOT JUST 'ANY' OIL, BUT 'TURBO OIL.' LOL

I THINK BY 'GENERIC' ---YOU MEAN DINO OIL. I USE SYNTHETIC. YOU DON'T HAVE TO GO ACROSS TOWN...AUTO STORES HAVE THE BRANDS. NAPA...DUH.

It's no secret that there are some exotic oils out there with the proper amounts,

IT SEEMS TO BE A SECRET FOR YOU BECAUSE YOU CAN'T FIND THEM. LOL but finding them and them having the right other additives for our cars for normal driving and not race applications with no detergents is very hard to find.

SOME PEOPLE CAN'T FIND THE BATHROOM! :) NOT MY PROBLEM.

If your talking about oils that can be found at your local parts store...then you better ...read all 4 pages above as its been proven that todays SM rated oils have little to no ZDDP..If your reading oil analyisis content posting, you better find out how old the tests were as the content of the additives is changing very rapidly.

YOU WERE EDUCATED IN 4 PAGES...WOWEE. YOU...ARE EDUCATING ME? I KNEW THIS WOULD HAPPEN YEARS BEFORE IT DID AND COULD PUT YOU ON A SITE THAT HAS OVER 65 PAGES. WOW!

YOU better...you better.......WHY SHOULD I 'BETTER'...JUST BECAUSE YOU DON'T KNOW HOW TO LOOK FOR IT...IS NOT MY PROBLEM. ...GEEZ...SOME PEOPLE....I'M NOT STOPPING YOU...GO AND DO WHAT YOU GOTTA DO.

YOU'D "BETTER" ...DISCUSS THIS WITH SOMEONE ELSE, WHO'D AGREE WITH YOU. YOU WOULD ONLY LOSE THE DISCUSSION IF I DECIDED TO NOT MAKE THIS MY LAST POST REGARDING THIS RIDICULOUS "My dad can beat up your dad" post.

Don't attack and try and make me the bad guy, after what was sent to me by email from a retailer. I explained what initially happened, but not to you. Mind you own business and you'll be happier. lol
 
Don't attack and try and make me the bad guy, after what was sent to me by email from a retailer. I explained what initially happened, but not to you. Mind you own business and you'll be happier. lol
Wasn't trying to attack anyone...go take a chill pill dude. Go thinking what you want to....so what's the magic brands you speak of with all the ZDDP in it that you can get at the store??
This board is for education...so start educating instead of throwing out baseless claims with no proof to back it up. Rich has done plenty of research in this area with current oils and not 5 year old oil analysis on 65 web pages. Most porsche owners I know haven't a clue except what their mechanic told them anyway if you want to start personal attacks a**hole.
This has been atopic on many classic car sites and its not just this site or this thread, so what you are saying is thousands of classic car collectors are wrong about the modern SM rating oils and you seem to know that it does have plenty of ZDDP in it..or Z&P as you call it :rolleyes: even though countless folks have had indepentent test prove there's little there?
 
I wasn't even going to come back here, until you started with the juvenile name calling.

Notice I didn't call you any names, a**hole. Oops...not until you showed your true colors Azzclown.

I can build a turbo Buick and a turbo Porsche ENGINE in my shop from scratch. I owned a race team azzclown. lol I'M the MECHANIC aazzhole. lol Go spend some time with your buttbuddies. lol I can tell that you have people do your engine work for you, by your lame knowledge of engine mechanics. A**hole! lol
Still no name of the magic "plenty" of ZDDP oil brand you can find at the local store, or is it Z&P?
Your the one that said "I KNEW THIS WOULD HAPPEN YEARS BEFORE IT DID " and your the one that was attempting to buy ZDDP, so is it in your oil or not...if so what were you predicting and why are you even trying to buy this stuff?
I don't care what you've built, I've known plety of said mechanics that are misinformed about products as any other person. I have my own garage and do all of my own work as time permits, and usually don't trust anyone that claims to be a mechanic anyway.
"I THINK BY 'GENERIC' ---YOU MEAN DINO OIL." You thought wrong...generic meaning anything you can buy at the local parts store from Mobil 1 to Price Saver.
I've been in the dealerships and have seen and inquired about the exotic oils sold at the german car dealers and was suggesting if thats what it was since you would not put forth a name brand and you spun off as the azzclown first with all your grown up and attacking remarks.
All of the variety of oils that can be purchased at the local store have been tested recently and none have significant amounts of ZDDP, go spend $$$ on the correct oil analysis to find out for yourself, it gets expensive fast. But its your car, ran what you want. Good day...
 
Its a shame that this thread will probly get deleted now because of the childish games going on in here.:mad: There is good information in this thread that will not be able to be searched now. Its a shame that this couldn't continue to be an adult conversation about oil additives.

A big thanks to Mr. Clark and Mr. Spina for all thier time and information given to the questions asked here.
 
Here's what happened.

Saw it here (early thread and posts at the *6 for $30*price that was advertised) and since the Porsche community (I have a Turbo Porsche) uses the oils that have at least 12% Z&P *some 15%, I'm very familiar with it's use. You also should have the right mixture of detergents in the oil by the way (I won't go into that now). I have also been using oils that contain Z&P in the Turbo Buick and my other older cars for many years. I've even used Castor Bean Motor Oil (Castrol-R) in my race cars. Too bad it can't be used in normal driving. As I recall, additives weren't even needed with the Castrol-R. Back on topic.................

I sent an email to a vendor and they sent me a price quote. Here's the conflicting part. After your above quote, I went to their site. And guess what? Their NON-PRIVATE price to the general public is (as you stated)
NOT OVER $60.00 TO THE GENERAL PUBLIC.

Whatever? I would have gone for the 6 for 30 price, but anything over is getting pronged IMO. I just thought I'd try it (mixed with one of the newer low in Z&P grade oils) and then send a sample out to be tested after running it for a while.

I wouldn't take a FREE CASE after that ploy. Sad to see. Obviously, there must be a market for those who can't spend a few minutes researching this topic.

I'll just continue using the oils that I have been using for years. They have the same amounts of additives as they had in 1976, when I bought my first of a few Turbo Porsches. I've mentioned the Porsche, because they are sticklers for the proper additives, especially in their earlier air-cooled engines. They continue to be so, in their current water cooled ones as well.

I won't list the site that contains the information on these oils as I don't want to make it seem like I'm trying to promote them. But they are under $10.00 a quart and contain the additives that have been taken out of the newer Politically/Environmentally Correct oils.

Looks like someone made an error and it wasn't me.

Good Luck,

WGB

turbo------i will apologize if there are any ZPlus dealers out there that are gouging anyone-------i know all of them and really don't believe thats happening---------thats never been the intent and if i found out it was happening i would do something about it IMMEDIATELY---------if you have evidence please let me know who is responsible--------you speak of a ploy?????-----what exactly does that mean???-------i think you might just have a problem keeping numbers straight-------you say there is special "Porsche oil" with 12 to 15% Z&P-------thats about 100 times the normally recommended concentration--------sitting in my garage beside a lot of nice GN's is a beautiful white, classic 1978 Porsche 930 turbo carrera and no one has ever suggested that I use an oil like you describe----------perhaps you have confused the $150/6 pac the same way-------if not i will promise you that i will refund to anyone every dollar they have been overcharged by any ZddPlus dealers------- have them scan the reciepts and e-mail them to me--------i will refund 100% of the overcharges promptly....................RC
 
dont worry about it mr. clark. it was just some troll that came in, said 'I have somethin better' but wouldnt tell us what it is.. then leaves... conveniently.

different cars, doing different things, have different requirements for their motor oil... or there'd be just one type of motor oil on the shelves. That guy dont know s hit from shinola. It's already been proven what our cars lack, and a solid solution has been found. No more need for that topic. Next.
 
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