new logger and need help

So I have to run a bigger return line? I think it's 340 I got it at full throttle and all it's says it replaces the 340m so I just guessing it a 340 lol but I was told that all I need with that pump was the regulator and Hotwire kit. I had know idea about the return line. The only reason I replaced the feed line cause that was the only line left that was not ss. well the vent line is not either but I looks new so I left it. So if I need it bigger does it need to be 3/8 line and is that from the front of the frame to the tank or do u have to go from the rail to tank with bigger line.
 
From fuel rail to tank. You can look on turbo tweak we site at fuel.line modification
 
You should not need to replace the return line. Seeing how it is stainless steel already it is possible that when it was made the crimps for the Saginaw fittings ( where the o rings fit) are too small. What you can do is remove the fuel regulator and drill out the area where it is crimped down. There are two areas on the return to do that. Under the regulator and at the frame rail. I do not remember the size but if you have an assortment of drill bits see what fits and then gradually open it up. I will measure a stock return line to see how far I opened it up. But all the cars I have ever put big intank pumps on have never needed that done. Those all had factory lines, not stainless steel. Don't stress. This should be easily fixable.
 
Ok I look into it more and follow the lines back and for some reason the vent line is ss and not the return line but that line gose from ss to steal after it crossed under the motor. There been a lot of wierd stuff like this I have found as I replace everything. So I guess I got the stock steal line for return and I looked everywhere for a kink or bad part of line but I can't find anything. The fittings u r talking about r both end of the line that runs down the front of the motor right? One end at the reg and the other is hidding by the ps pump? All the lines look good but I know it has some thing to do with the return line
Thank u chris
 
That's weird that the vent line would be stainless steel. Not sure why anyone would spend the money on that. The fittings I am talking about are where the return line bolts to the bottom of the regulator and then where that line connects at the frame under the power steering pump. The part under the regulator I drilled to 7/32 and I believe I did the same at the frame connection. You can access that one from underneath the car. You Need to sneak up on the size. Start with a bit that is just barely bigger than the hole and keep going bigger.
 

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Lol yeah that's is why I thought it was the return cause is it ss but the guy that owned it for year did some wired thing on this car but do u think that is the problem is just the ends or do u think I need to put ss return on it as well to get it to run? I will try the to dril the ends out in tomorrow. I don't get why he wasted the money on it but he did the all the brakes lines and the vent in ss but the feed line and return lines he put new steal line on for some dumb reason but I don't get why he didn't go ss with them. Lol I am still try to figure out what has been done and what is stock and what was upgraded lol. I got a huge box with all the papers to every thing that he did to the car but half of it the ink is so faded u can't read it. Lol I will try that tomorrow and hope that's it. Thank u chris
 
Oh I forgot that the two brake lines on the rearend going to the rear wheels r steal lines to lol lol but the rest r ss lol
 
I had two hour to mess around with the car and I found that there was pinch in the line where it goes over the rearend. He had to clamps on the return line where the rubber line gose to steal and one of the clamps was not on the metal line and was just on the rubber line and he had it tight and it was not letting much gas return to the tank. I set the fuel pressure to 42 and when for a 1/2 mile up the road and it ran good so tomorrow I will hook up the laptop and do a few runs. Thank u so so much for all your help and I owe u one big for the help and sending me down the right road.
 
WOW!!! Talk about a simple fix. I hate going back over other people's work because you never know what they missed or did a hack job of in the first place. Good job on locating the restriction. If it will hold 42-43 at idle with the vacuum line off and then drops about 8 with the vacuum line on then you are good to go. Glad I could help. I've been working on these cars since 96. I don't everything but I do know where to find the info I need. Enjoy
 
Yeah it's was holding it at 42 line off and about 33 or so line on so I thought that's about right or I should say its a lot better then where I was lol. But I did get some knock on the gague at wot in 2 gear but that was still green but it was the first time I seen the other green light come on but I lifted as soon as I saw it but it seem to run good but I am going to put the maf trans box and the 3.5 maf in it tomorrow as well so I hope it still runs good after putting that in lol. I can't tell u enough times but thank u for sending me down the right path
 
turboChrisaj said:
Yeah it's was holding it at 42 line off and about 33 or so line on so I thought that's about right or I should say its a lot better then where I was lol. But I did get some knock on the gague at wot in 2 gear but that was still green but it was the first time I seen the other green light come on but I lifted as soon as I saw it but it seem to run good but I am going to put the maf trans box and the 3.5 maf in it tomorrow as well so I hope it still runs good after putting that in lol. I can't tell u enough times but thank u for sending me down the right path
Click to expand...

No problem. I'll help as much as I can.
 
it ran good with the 3.5 maf and translator but I got a lot of knock with it and i had to lift every time but here is the log
 

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do I need to give it more fuel I have it set at 42 line off and then 34 with line on? I put the maf trans to what the book said but not sure if it needs to stay there or i need to trun up>
 
How much boost are you running ? It doesn't show up on the log. Also 26 degrees of timing is race fuel territory. Way to much for 93 octane. You need to back it down to 18* of timing at WOT. The other thing I see is the injectors are maxed out. But I see a AFR o 10.0:1. What wideband sensor do you have? I need to make sure I have my powerlogger set on the right setting. What chip do you have?
 

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He told me it had a chip in it but I did not see any marks on it so I was not sure if he was just talking about the ECM that was changed out and though that the chip lol but I thing it's about 16 on boost and how do u get it to show on the power logger. I hooked up the map to the block and I thought that would make it show it but guess not lol. I just have the stock o2 and that's it. He raced the car a lot but had nothing to see what was going on so now that's what I am doing but it a slow going. This is all new to me and I been working on motors for years but this is a hole new world to me. I plan on getting a Tt chip with 60 lb injectors from TT by the end of the month so that will help it out alot with a new chip I think.
 
If it was my car I would add the 60s, a Turbotweak 6.1 chip and an AEM wideband sensor. That chip has a ton of timing in it. Are the injectors stock as well?
As for the boost reading on the powerlogger ...... Is this a digital dash car or analog ? There are some instructions on how to get the proper wires tapped into other wires in order to feed the proper voltage. (Kinda vague I know). I'll see if I can find them.
 
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