New lower voltage has car dieing when put in gear.

[LEGACY_GN]

Drove car with close to 16 volts for about 8000 miles before I fixed it with Caspers field fix. Apparently volt booster was malfunctioning. was always in 15 range. Now the car dies every time I put it in gear unless I rev it a bit and seems to be running rich at idle in gear. 12.5 ratio where as before it was 14.5 as it is when driving now. All other readings good. BL 128, etc. etc. I do know the higher voltage fried the battery and replaced it two weeks ago with the caspers field fix. Fried 8 month old battery is what tipped me off that the car didn't like the high voltage. That and popping headlights every couple months. Also mileage has gotten worse since lower voltage. Think I fried some other parts too? Coil, module, ecm, plugs??? What are you thoughts?

 

[HouTX87]

Caspers field fix only protects against the system not charging due to a burned out bulb in the dash, etc. You didn't replace the alternator?

 

[LEGACY_GN]

Replaced alternator last year with 200 amp Kirban and thus began the 16 volt issue. Plugged in caspers this year and volts are back to normal. Strange, I know.

 

[HouTX87]

I think I'd get another alternator. If you want an upgrade I'd go with either one for a '96 impala ss or a the Powermaster brand with the adjustable voltage regulator. Nothing against Kirbans, I've bought a lot of good stuff from them but I bought their "new" 120 amp alternator because it looked original and it didn't work right out of the box. Took it to a local place that repairs alternators and they said brushes were missing. Had it fixed in town rather than go through the hassle of sending it back.

 

[LEGACY_GN]

Well it's obviously working right now as the voltage is in line and everything is charging, it's just that I think the high voltage may have fried some other components.

 

[HouTX87]

See if you've got goo between your coil and module.

 

[we4Mateo]

Try resetting the chip too and let it relearn. 16V shouldn't have hurt much else besides the battery.

 

[TurboDave]

Well, your stalling when shifting into gear is likely due to your 5 disk vigilante converter. I KNOW my 7 disk is at fault for that!!! I had thought that the 5 disk might have cured that issue but maybe not in your case.

 

[we4Mateo]

Well, your stalling when shifting into gear is likely due to your 5 disk vigilante converter. I KNOW my 7 disk is at fault for that!!! I had thought that the 5 disk might have cured that issue but maybe not in your case.

If it didn't do it before, why now? It's not like it was rich or anything, according to info presented, when it had the higher voltage. My Vig, 5 disc, doesn't stall the car anymore after about 30k miles of use.

 

[TurboDave]

Just throwing something out there as a possibility. But you make perfect sense.

 

[we4Mateo]

Just throwing something out there as a possibility. But you make perfect sense.

He did say it was lean now though so maybe that's doing it.

 

[LEGACY_GN]

5 disc is 5 years old and has never stalled the car, however as I posted in the transmission forum the neutral rattle as suddenly gotten louder in the past two weeks. Another new issue since lower voltage is the iac races up into the mid 100s in reverse which raises the rpms and when I went from reverse to drive it spiked to 1500 or 2000 going into drive and now the rattle is louder. Still drives perfect but as I said in first post it is richer at idle in gear and seems to be pushing on brakes harder even though only taching 825

 

[we4Mateo]

5 disc is 5 years old and has never stalled the car, however as I posted in the transmission forum the neutral rattle as suddenly gotten louder in the past two weeks. Another new issue since lower voltage is the iac races up into the mid 100s in reverse which raises the rpms and when I went from reverse to drive it spiked to 1500 or 2000 going into drive and now the rattle is louder. Still drives perfect but as I said in first post it is richer at idle in gear and seems to be pushing on brakes harder even though only taching 825

Sounds like you have a few issues. Reset the chip, drive around for 15 minutes in town or so, then look at your sm values again.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[LEGACY_GN]

Reset the chip, no difference. Changed plugs, still died when put in gear but air fuel went up to 14.5 for a day at idle but now back to 12.7, rich. Driving it's in the 14's all day long. Just rich at idle and keeps dieing when put in gear. Only change is lower voltage. Lower voltage seems to have it rich at idle which may also be causing it to die when put in gear. SHould I adjust translator to lean out?

 

[we4Mateo]

Reset the chip, no difference. Changed plugs, still died when put in gear but air fuel went up to 14.5 for a day at idle but now back to 12.7, rich. Driving it's in the 14's all day long. Just rich at idle and keeps dieing when put in gear. Only change is lower voltage. Lower voltage seems to have it rich at idle which may also be causing it to die when put in gear. SHould I adjust translator to lean out?

What are the BL's @ idle?

 

[LEGACY_GN]

right on target 128, give or take a couple points. Just the air fuel is off and idle is a bit rough and surging sometimes.

 

[we4Mateo]

right on target 128, give or take a couple points. Just the air fuel is off and idle is a bit rough and surging sometimes.

Is the scanmaster indicating closed loop or open loop idle?

 

[LEGACY_GN]

Oh, now I show my ignorance. How do I tell. I know the cross counts aren't counting.

 

[HouTX87]

In open loop the o2's will stay pretty steady, in closed loop they will switch high and low.

 

[LEGACY_GN]

Hey, that is interesting as I did notice when the air fuel is in the 12s the o2 is stuck in the 800s but when I got it in the 14s briefly with the new plugs it was switching. But now it's always open loop because they are forever stuck in 800s at idle.