to elecrtic fan the stock IC or not?

87 to help with heatsoak at idle id guess... id like to get separate map to figure out different temps under boost, not under, when fan is off, on cruising etc

im sure its been done way before i showed up but i like to tinker...maybe too much for my own good
 
I can go two ways with this. By TPS settings or off the tach wire. Figured having it come on at 500 RPM to say 1500 would be good?? TPS on at .040 to ????? Can also have a delay built in so fan wouldn't be going on and off all the time.
 
be more simple to run off the tach?

I had typo on previous post when i mentioned map and ment to say my IAT but whats with the Iat before the compressor? shouldnt it be after that way its measuring actual air charge temp going into the motor???

i didnt quite understand the concept of that design. im gonna move IAT to the up pipe and it would have to be the “open-element” type sensor correct? isnt the buick OEM shielded within a brass housing?

Addition..just found threads..seems alot are running in uppipe, some in back of doghouse

i need to find out if i need open element type
 
i was thinking of using one of those radiator fan temp sensors that use a probe in the radiator fins. i would put the probe in the intercooler fins and have the fan turn on at about 80. anything below and the fan shuts off.
 
I guess the more that winter drags on the dumber im getting and i shutter to think i can get any dumber then i already am:p:redface:

Anyway I welded up my dutt mod and while i know that just adding a front mount would get rid of any if not most issues with heat but then again im just running a mild set up and i'll deal with the stock location.

what is temp comming out of stock IC under boost?
260 degrees? higher?

Anyway i'll be getting fan on weds then i need to finish up my office depot trashcan scoop
 
Found a source for decently priced window RPM switches, just got to see if they can make them how I want them. Figured with a 500 RPM on setting it won't come on when you have the key in the on position before cranking the motor up. What do you think about a 1500 RPM shut off point? Or should it be a little higher? He can make them adjustable as well for extra $$$.
 
LOL dont ask me man...im a rookie

Mark, what about Dr boost's idea? Also what is air temp under boost on stock IC...err i'll do search for it

cool thanks
 
Frequency counter reading the VSS signal and triggering an SSR to run the fan would work nicely. Same concept as a window switch, just using speed signal rather than RPM.
 
DR BOOST said:
i was thinking of using one of those radiator fan temp sensors that use a probe in the radiator fins. i would put the probe in the intercooler fins and have the fan turn on at about 80. anything below and the fan shuts off.
Click to expand...


This is the same thing I was thinking about but I couldn't find a main stream probe and control that can be set to that low of a temp setting.
May be I can look at some of the low voltage home heating sensors and switches

Why not run it all the time on a low setting with a manual high setting?
Or
A Boost activated high setting?
 
SRGN said:
Frequency counter reading the VSS signal and triggering an SSR to run the fan would work nicely. Same concept as a window switch, just using speed signal rather than RPM.
Click to expand...



yeah , I like that idea . I ordered the 12" , should fit prefect on my CAS V4 . so I'm in if anyone comes up with something . :) There must be a few electronic gurus on this board to be able to come up with something . I'm not one of them . :)
 
Problem with the speed signal would be the fan would always be on when the car is sitting. You might not want it to come on when you are trying to start the car. With RPM you could have it come on at say 500-600 RPM and shut off at 1500 RPM or more. No electrical guru here either but just trying to weigh all the options. Would be easier to check the operation of the fan this way as well. Anyone remember the rpms when cruising at say 40 mph or so? Haven't driven mine is so long and have the axles out right now so can't check myself.
 
Im trying to figure out at what MPH the CFM passes the Fan CFM @ 1250

If the fan shuts off at 1500 rpm and IM launching car at 2000 or more then the fan wouldnt be doing much to eliminate heat soak cause it would have shut down at 1500?

the only conversion table i have to figure out cfm vs mph is the following


1. Sunny Day
2. Calibrated speedometer
3. Small protractor and ruler
4. Dog with long floppy ears


You go for a drive on a sunny afternoon and observe the angle and stretch of the dogs' ears at different speeds.

Then you set the dog on the floor in the living room and spin the fan at x rpm and observe the angle and stretch again.

Then comparing numbers from the two prior experiments should yield a reasonable estimate mph of fan flow.


dunno why im trying to get the most out of this stock IC but once again im a glutton
 
Why not run it all the time on a low setting with a manual high setting?
Or
A Boost activated high setting?[/QUOTE]

are these ideas that bad?:confused: :confused: :(
 
TURBOPOWERED68 said:
Why not run it all the time on a low setting with a manual high setting?
Or
A Boost activated high setting?
Click to expand...

are these ideas that bad?:confused: :confused: :([/QUOTE]

from what ive been searching, it seems that around 35mph the wind CFM will negate the fan's 1250... granted thats using a radiator as the test, now with stock location IC going 35 or 40 whats windflow under car up into the scoop?

dunno but it just seems that id want the fan on while going slow or stopped then once i was going fast enough and or under boost then fan shuts down as it wouldnt be needed.

or i could just suck it up and buy a megacooler!..lol na cant afford that
 
mcasteel2112 said:
be more simple to run off the tach?

I had typo on previous post when i mentioned map and ment to say my IAT but whats with the Iat before the compressor? shouldnt it be after that way its measuring actual air charge temp going into the motor???

i didnt quite understand the concept of that design. im gonna move IAT to the up pipe and it would have to be the “open-element” type sensor correct? isnt the buick OEM shielded within a brass housing?

Addition..just found threads..seems alot are running in uppipe, some in back of doghouse

i need to find out if i need open element type
Click to expand...

Kind of hijacking the thread here, but the reason for the mat sensor in the airbox was to keep it close to the maf. From what I have read here (and I admit I could be wrong), the factory maf sensors don't have built in temperature correction like the late model mafs do, so they needed to know the approx. inlet temperature near the maf to help correct the maf readings in really cold or hot weather. The way I understand it is that most aftermarket chips disable this feature anyway, since few of these cars are actually driven in the freezing cold and it's probably only helping fuel economy and emissions a little bit. This is my take on it. I've had mine unhooked from the get-go and have been using the t link boost harness on it instead. no ill effects but I don't use the stock chip.

Also I have an electric fan laying in the garage that I bought from WS6FORMULA50 for my IC but have never gotten around to installing it. He may have done some testing with it before he went with a front mount. I was always going to put the IAT sensor in the pipe and test before and after but it never got done. I would assume it would drastically reduce heat soak if you are doing consecutive burnouts at the loacal cruise night and such. It may even help on the highway, to pull the air around that bend a little better. Electric fans on radiators will still kick on going down the highway so it should have some kind of benefit.

JMO
bob
 
INEEDAGN said:
Kind of hijacking the thread here,
bob
Click to expand...

oh hijack away... one part of me says to just go with front mount, bigger, cooler plus if i have to change out waterpump or somthing then its one less thing in my way.

i think i'll put the iat in the uppie then run gauge and see what kind of temp im looking at without fan on then with it on

of course all this will be done in Aug when it finally stops snowing:mad:
 
Got my ebay 26 dollar 1250 cfm fan today, hooked it up to batt and daym...thats good news

bad news is im looking at some custom fab..i knew the fan was 10-13/16 while height of IC is 10 so it overlaps the frame which was not bad cause fan mounting tabs are right there and i could tig some small "L" brackets to mount fan.

Now depth of fan as it sits out from the ic frame brings it to about 3/8 too much towards the damper and water pully is for sure a no go as well
so untill i get my double rad fan and see what my clearance is up front for maybe notching out the IC mounts and moving the IC forward about 1/2 inch which is about all id have before the shroud kisses the swaybar

So for right now im at a stand still with a 1250cfm hair dryer
 
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