to elecrtic fan the stock IC or not?

[TR Custom Parts]

Where did everyone go??? Got another option I am going to pursue on this since I am getting some feedback that you need to use diodes to prevent backfeeding into the ECM.

Latest idea is a vacuum hobbs switch. Going to wire it in series with the ground wire, will be normally closed so the fan will always run at high vaccuum where it would be at idle and lower speeds. After the hobbs switch the ground will run to a on off on switch in the car. I am going to also run a wire before the hobbs switch to the switch in the car so I can manually control the fan as well.

I run a PRESSURE hobbs switch for my DIY alky kit and have it wired the same way so I can have the system on normally and if I switch it to the other on position I can prime the pump.

Fitting this damn fan in is proving to be a pain in the butt. Thought I had it perfect but it was a little too close to the bottom of the crank pulley so have to get another mounting kit to move it up a bit.

 

[Junior Samples]

Where did everyone go??? Got another option I am going to pursue on this since I am getting some feedback that you need to use diodes to prevent backfeeding into the ECM.

Latest idea is a vacuum hobbs switch. Going to wire it in series with the ground wire, will be normally closed so the fan will always run at high vaccuum where it would be at idle and lower speeds. After the hobbs switch the ground will run to a on off on switch in the car. I am going to also run a wire before the hobbs switch to the switch in the car so I can manually control the fan as well.

I run a PRESSURE hobbs switch for my DIY alky kit and have it wired the same way so I can have the system on normally and if I switch it to the other on position I can prime the pump.

Fitting this damn fan in is proving to be a pain in the butt. Thought I had it perfect but it was a little too close to the bottom of the crank pulley so have to get another mounting kit to move it up a bit.

Oh Im around, just hit a road block with my fan

Fired up car today..man it runs smoooth but i have to play with my IAC....again

 

[INEEDAGN]

Mark are you mounting it with those plastic zip ties for a trans cooler? If so I can send you a few without you needing to purchase a kit.

My electric IC fan has been in the bottom drawer of my toolbox for like 2 years. Doubt it gets installed anytime soon. Probably in a year or so when I upgrade ICs.

ALSO, this is jusst my opinion, but I think it'd be better if it runs anytime you are at WOT or anytime shortly before or after. I still think that even at 65+ mph it would still be better to have it on. Modern cars with electric radiator fans don't kick them off when you hit highway speed and they would try anything to save energy these days. I'd mount it as far up on the IC as I could and put a simple swtich in the ashtray with constant "on" (regardless of key position for cooling between runs), constant "off" (for those long freeway runs where it's not needed), and auto on with the key, which is where i'd leave mine most of the time for farting around locally. This is of course just my idea of it and I could easily be wrong.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

The switch will give you the option of the fan running all the time if you want! thanks for the offer on the zip ties but will be picking some up today at the local speed shop. Have to pick up some filters for my cold air kits anyway!:smile: Also, this whole mounting deal MIGHT be easier for those of you using the factory intercooler, not sure. You will need about 3" of clearance between the outer lip of the stock crank pulley and the IC core.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Pics

Here's some pics of how the install is going......

 

[quick 6 racing]

Because I've drag raced my GN since 1990. I added a electric fan to mine back in 93' to help keep the intercooler "cooled" while in the staging lanes and during the return run, I had also found the engine does run cooler while using it during city cruising. I used a 10" Hayden which is a common model and pulls about 1200-1400 cfm. You can feel the air pull at my intercooler scoop. I wired it two ways 1) thru manual overide switch in ashtray 2) via high speed rad fan. When using manual switch it triggers both fans which is great for max engine / intercooler cooling. I did have clearance problems and used 1" spacers (forward) for the intercooler. This is a set-up that i have now used for over 15 years.

 

[Junior Samples]

I need to move mine forward to fit the fan in, I need to cut off 1/2 inch of the NUB!..lol on waterpump

Now the prob I have with even thinking of moving mine forward is my front sway, no room for my shroud since its pretty tight, I want to keep my FS

Anyway I mocked it up...was no go for a moment so I put it back together while i think about it some more.


still thinkin

Looks good though Mark

 

[Junior Samples]

ok now i see the pics..was having a brain fart...hell thanks man i'll just mock me up a couple of 1inch spacers and slide it forward.

cool

 

[GNVYUS 1]

I was going to recommend a toggle like Quick 6 Racing has in the ashtray and be done.

I have an extra fan on my radiator for my Talon that I toggle on or off, no need to go to far with this.

And make those fans bigger, everything needs to be big on a GN!!

 

[TR Custom Parts]

I did have clearance problems and used 1" spacers (forward) for the intercooler. This is a set-up that i have now used for over 15 years.

How about a pic of the driver's side? How did you extend that 1" when there is only one bolt to the IC?

 

[Junior Samples]

How about a pic of the driver's side? How did you extend that 1" when there is only one bolt to the IC?

what i was wondering

Mark I got Design Idea i need input on for something different, I'll photoshop up and send over.

Mike

 

[quick 6 racing]

How about a pic of the driver's side? How did you extend that 1" when there is only one bolt to the IC?

I tried taking a pic ( about 20 ) none showed it very well. I just used a 1" spacer with one bolt hole, the factory only has one bolt to the intercooler so using the same works. The pass. side has two and it holds the intercooler in place just fine, plus the hoses and beefy clamps ( been that way for 15 years and many miles now)

And yes it did push the intercooler forward and is tight but has never caused any problems, and I never needed to cut or modify my water pump pulley.

I did this way back when no-one else had done these sort of things so many of my performance mods were very experimental (and cost effective) and proven at the race track (good or bad)

When racing it really helped my car keep consistant and helped me win so many times in a tough braket race field against some big dollar high HP cars.

 

[Junior Samples]

Picked me up a piece of stock and will be mocking it up.

Since my car is a Frankenstein I was thinking about adding two vents on hood, first i thought about one over the turbo to expel hot air but with the ic shroud so close to fan, the air thats pulled through the rad really has nowhere to go except around the ic shroud, so if i added two right up front it would go up and out, but id have to find a pair that didnt look stupid like the guy driving it.

dunno why im still hung up on working with this stock ic mount, i could sure solve alot of issues with front mount

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Pretty much all done with my installation! Didn't need any spacers since I went with the RJC race crank pulley. Made things a lot easier. Wired up my window switch and everything works fine. Ended up mounting the RPM window switch inside the car under my tach. Made all the connections for the window switch off the tach. Will have a switch located to the right of the interior light switch on the dash so I can completely turn the fan off, leave on automatic or use it manually.

Mounted the relay on the brace for the inner fenderwell near the steering box with a bolt that was already there. Tapped 12v power off the rear of the alternator.

Waiting to receive my custom panel for the dash that will be engraved like stock and have the switch mounted. In fact, we will be offering that option on our dash panels in the future. I ran out of room with all the switches I already have on my ashtray switch panel! Will post pics when it is installed.

 

[turbo nasty]

Wonder ifthe L/U circuit could be used? That would be 45mph

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Wonder ifthe L/U circuit could be used? That would be 45mph

Was thinking along those lines myself but using the 3rd gear switch. Seems a few people think that might end up causing problems with the computer if you don't use a diode??

One thing I never figured out is if the TCC and 3rd gear wires at the connector to the trans are hot all the time (12V) or if it is a ground wire???

 

[salvageV6]

The TCC power on the purple wire is +12 through the brake switch, so everytime you break the fan relay will turn on and off. Not the best way to get power for the relay, and it's hot in run, bulb test, and start.

A/C, IGN 3 port, is still the best place for relay power hot in run only.

Dark Green white stripe wire at the tranny connector is the third gear switch which is grounded until you hit 3rd gear.

I'd still use a diode accross the relay coil since this thing is gonna switch a bit on/off when driving.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

The TCC power on the purple wire is +12 through the brake switch, so everytime you break the fan relay will turn on and off. Not the best way to get power for the relay, and it's hot in run, bulb test, and start.

A/C, IGN 3 port, is still the best place for relay power hot in run only.

Dark Green white stripe wire at the tranny connector is the third gear switch which is grounded until you hit 3rd gear.

I'd still use a diode accross the relay coil since this thing is gonna switch a bit on/off when driving.

Got a diode coming, just have to figure out how to wire it in. Am not an electric guru but can wire up stuff with the best of them if someone shows me what goes where.:biggrin:

I have the 30 & 86 terminals tied together and going to the alternator stud, like you would a hot wire fuel pump. The 87 terminal is feeding the fan and then the fan ground is going to the frame rail. 85 terminal is going inside the car to my toggle switch on the dash. I am running a ground off the switch so I can manually turn on the fan at any time including when the car is off. Another wire runs off the switch to the RPM window switch which is tied into the tach wiring. I am assuming the diode should be connected to the power wire feeding the relay then?????

 

[Hyboost]

Pros and cons please
I have to modify the intercooler scoop and I am thinking of installing an electric fan.
I figure an electric IC fan would work a little better than Stock especially in traffic.
What are your guys’ thoughts on this?

I did it this year. I know it will help at the track. I have a temp gun & checked the IC after few runs on Test & tune night & it was really hot, (over 190) you can't drive around to cool it off when your in the staging lanes & running the car just heats up the engine while the little crank mounted fan does little anyway.So I bought a small 9" fan & put it in front of the intercooler as a pusher.(Between the schroud & intercooler) I just wired it hot w/ a fuse, so I can run it w/ the ign off. I dont think it'll do much on the road due to airflowing through at speed but it can't hurt. When I race, it is mostly at a 1/8 track & it is bracket racing. Once you dial in, you want to stay as consistant as possible, sometimes you don't get enough time to cool off between runs so an even IC air temp will help keep the #'s consistant.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Finishing touch!:smile: Available soon at your favorite Turbo Regal Custom Parts company.:biggrin: