Recent content by Boostmeister

Thanks for all the great info! I have no reference flow in g/sec, so I'll have to be happy with a static test plus an active "hair dryer" test to see if the frequency increases. That should give me fairly good confidence whether the MAF is good or not. Plus I'll keep a log of all the ones I...

Thanks , that's great information. I thought the sender was hiding behind the lower rad hose somewhere. Now I know what wire to check.

I'd like to be able to bench test LT1 MAF's before connecting them with the translator just to weed out the duds. I apply 12 volts DC to the "C" terminal, ground to the "B" terminal. My output should be on "C". C appears to be an open-collector output, so I installed a 220k resistor from C to...

I think there is a problem with the oil pressure sender. The gauge shows 0, sometimes 5 at idle. Can't be right or the motor would be dead by now. Where is this located on the GNX and how do I test it? Where can I get a replacement? Is there a schematic of the dash/gauge circuit available...

After putting the job off for like 2 years, I finally got around to replacing the power antenna. It really wasn't that bad a job. I want to summarize the procedure while it is still fresh in my mind. 1. Remove the battery to expose the "hole" in the fender. 2. Using a 7mm socket, remove...

No, no work done lately. Did oil/filter Sunday. Drove 70 miles Monday. Happened Tuesday morning. 95k miles on a rebuild.

To make a long story short...... Started car, ran for a few seconds then died. Cranks and no start. Eventually found that the cam sensor would turn by hand. Removed cam sensor and it is missing 3 teeth. I crank engine and can see the timing chain and cam move. With a long screwdriver I try...

I'm planning to do the job on Thursday. I'll try the battery way first, but I'll have the drill and pop rivet gun ready for the worst case. GNX243, use the radio. Nylon is gonna get old and break whether you use it or not, so might as well enjoy. I'll post what method I used.

Got the Kirban book today. Their way is to drill out the rivets along the fender. Big OUCH! Bilt2run, I'll try your way first. Miked, any more details on the battery hole way? Will be back on the GNX next week.

bilt2run, When you did the X, do you remember what you removed to get the antenna out the bottom? With the flare off, 5 door edge 10mm bolts, and 1 wheel well 10mm bolt out, I could get about 1" of opening at the bottom of the fender. I didn't want to pull too hard on the fender.

That link looks like just for the screwed on tip of the top mast section. I've never heard of replacing a broken cable through the top of the fender. Anyone got a step-by-step? Kirban book will be here next week.

The motor runs, so I sure 99% its just that nylon cable inside. I've got the replacement cable in-hand. I removed the 5 bolts on the fender by the door and 1 in the wheel well. I was able to pull the fender open "a little", but just not enough. Of course, I removed the flare first. I...

and the fender does not remove like a regular GN. How is it held on? It almost looks lke it is glued together in the wheel well. Anybody removed the antenna before? Procedure? Tips?

FJM - i believe Casper still repairs them. I don't know if he swaps a bad for a good or troubleshoots the board to component level. 8tsixt - I wasn't offering a repair service. i was just wondering if I spent the time to reverse engineer and design a new solder-in replacement power supply...

Sounds just like what happened to me. Probably bad power supply.