10 second buick problems

[Pronto]

I don't know what you mean by ac volts bleeding into it.

Test for AC volts in the system by using a volt meter on the ac setting on the battery posts. If it show ac voltage then the alternator is letting ac volts into the dc system. Probably not your issue since the alternator is new.

 

[Corvettekiller]

your data file looks halfway decent there youngster. Your knock sensor appears to be functioning since you do have 1 count, probably from when the engine was started up. No knock retard is good. Your BLMs look good too. Nothing wound up too high or too low.

WOT O2's are OK so far, but might look a little leaner if you stay in it longer. So you might need to add some more fuel through the chip programmable parameters. Do you know how to change the chip settings using your powerlogger? You can download the chip instructions from the turbotweak website

I'm for one am happy to see a youngster with an interest in an old Buick. Helluva lot better than a Honda Civic!

It's hot here today and I forgot to kick the a/c off... lol
I just got back from recording two data logs. On test 2 I left the line, with what I thought was 6lb of boost according to my gauge, and it counted 14 knocks when it spun I believe it revved way to high, and surged badly the entire time. On test 3 I left the line with no boost and just let it build it self up. On test three it never knocked but it surged in and out of power until I got out of it.

 

[Corvettekiller]

My dad was asking about the boost levels, should they be fluctuating that much? Could that be the cause of the power surging?

 

[GMTECH12002]

gonna throw something out there, sounds like you got misfires, possibly bad coil or even a plug wire, or cracked plug, look for black tracks down the sides of the spark plugs on the porcelain , also check that the gap is correct, if the gap is too wide, high boost will blow out the spark

 

[GMTECH12002]

and boost levels will fluctate alot with misfires, my suggestion is if its surging alot, you should let out of the throttle to help insure the safety of the motor, also i would wanna watch the fuel pressure during the test drive to make sure you dont have fluctuation of fuel pressure during these surging events. base pressure should be at least 43 with the vacuum line off.

 

[BEATAV8]

test2 file looks a bit "noisey", like an electrical gremlin at least in some channels. first thing that comes to mind in a bad ground. the engine harness is grounded at the back of the passenger head, there are several of them there. Also a body ground from firewall to engine sorta in the middle of the firewall. And the neg bat cable should have a ground between battery and fender. Check neg batt cable for corrosion or damage.

Could be positive power issue too. Check positive batt cable to starter and to alternator. Look for corrosion or general damage.

With all the noiseyness and the low system volts the evidence is pointing to an electrical problem wreaking havoc on the whole system.

Like GMTECH said the ignition might be wimping out, due to grounding issue or the like.

Still no knock retard, but several counts. The chip ignores knock counts on a launch from stop. Pedalling it part throttle probably leading to lots of boost fluctuations in this particular file.

 

[BEATAV8]

test 3 shows a bit better. wideband indicates "noise" similar to test 2 but I am thinking it's due to misfires. Little lean spikes and rich spikes are probably real.

I am leaning towards weak ignition. Weak power / ground to ignition. Or weak coil / weak module. Low system volts also indicative of this.
There are other threads here to help diagnose the coil.

Spark plugs should be gapped relatively tight, at .028" and if using iron heads use ACDelco R42TS.
Alternatively use Autolite Racing AR135, AR134, or AR133. AR133 is the coldest. These are short lived racing plugs for max performance.

If the ignition is weak, then fixing it will change everything. Improved combustion will change readings on the O2 sensor and the wideband, and boost should smooth out.

Adding a fuel pressure transducer would be a good idea. Once you get past this issue the fuel pressure will be very important to monitor. Razor sells a pressure sensor kit that can be wired into the powerlogger.

Keep boost low until you get this all sorted out.

 

[Pronto]

Good suggestions there. You could be experiencing compressor surge but it certainly is wise to check all the wires and plugs, grounds and coil. Logging the fuel pressure is great to have too. May save you some major damage.

 

[GMTECH12002]

The best way I have found to test the coil is use those clip on spark testers that look like a spark plug. These are calibrated to load the gm coils just right to cause them to loose spark if they are the least bit weak


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[Corvettekiller]

The coil is brand new. I probably have 30 miles on it and the plugs and plug wires have around 60 and they I just gapped them to .28" they were at .30".

 

[Corvettekiller]

On a test run last night after it cooled off I pulled a holeshot and left the line around 6-8 psi and it spun just a tad pulled hard until it hit 65 and it was like I completely let off the throttle and I just went ahead and got off of it my dad was with me and he "accidently" went back to monitor and it deleted the log. The knock sensor never came on the boost was steady and it wasn't surging and then it was like the fuel shut off just like the first time at the track.

 

[GMTECH12002]

Get a fuel pressure gauge that will reach to the windshield, roadtest with the gauge in view or taped to the windshield. Make sure you get a steady 1:1 increase In fuel pressure all the way through a wot pull


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[Corvettekiller]

I have gauge but its just tied up under the hood. Next time I take it out I will make sure I put it in view and monitor it. I have a log of a good run yesterday, before I turned the boost down, right after the problem run that I didn't catch.

 

[GMTECH12002]

A video of the test run would be great with sound


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[Corvettekiller]

Okay i will set up the gopro tomarrow so you can see the gauges and tach.

 

[Amelio]

On a test run last night after it cooled off I pulled a holeshot and left the line around 6-8 psi and it spun just a tad pulled hard until it hit 65 and it was like I completely let off the throttle and I just went ahead and got off of it my dad was with me and he "accidently" went back to monitor and it deleted the log. The knock sensor never came on the boost was steady and it wasn't surging and then it was like the fuel shut off just like the first time at the track.

What tires are you running?

The reason I ask is your power sounds like it is down from what a low 11sec car should be....... leaving from a 6-8psi launch that thing should be spinning its ass off and not want to recover. I know this because I am not able to leave that hard on the street and I run Drag radials.......after everything that has been posted you may want to really look at the fuel system. You may be dropping pressure as you stated the car just shut down.....with pressure dropping off the car will nose over as you have described.

The ignition system may have an issue with a ground but since you stated you have a new coil and plugs...etc I would start to pick the fuel system apart. A fuel pump going bad will be good one day and crappy the next when its on its way out. This is why its important to log fuel or have a gauge so you can see it every time you put your foot down.

 

[turboc87gn]

Just because the parts are "new" doesn't always mean they are good....

 

[87GNSteve]

Do you have another ignition module to swap out?

 

[TurboTGuy]

Just because the parts are "new" doesn't always mean they are good....

In mid April I put a brand new coil pack and module on my car because I had them on the shelf. Doing this provided me with "known working" back up's so I figured why not? It's really hot here (Phoenix) in late spring and in summer so after I changed the parts I didn't drive the car much and didn't get on it at all.

2 months down the road I developed a header leak and there were some other little issues I wanted checked out so I took my car out to Lou Czarnota, the guy who built the car, for a thurough going over.

When Lou was test driving it, the car had a miss at WOT.

Guess what the problem was?

 

[GMTECH12002]

In mid April I put a brand new coil pack and module on my car because I had them on the shelf. Doing this provided me with "known working" back up's so I figured why not? It's really hot here (Phoenix) in late spring and in summer so after I changed the parts I didn't drive the car much and didn't get on it at all.

2 months down the road I developed a header leak and there were some other little issues I wanted checked out so I took my car out to Lou Czarnota, the guy who built the car, for a thurough going over.

When Lou was test driving it, the car had a miss at WOT.

Guess what the problem was?

Agreed


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