15x9 with 4.5 BS ?
- Thread starter Louie L.
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 16,731
10 X 4.5BS
On my car, I too had SOME clearance at the ft and rear frame areas, BUT only after I added a 3/16" spacer. [15 X 8, 4"BS] The problem comes when you get body roll and sidewall deflection during driving, turning, driveway entry-exit, etc..
For anyone thinking of a "tight fitting" tire -wheel combo, I see many that would work if the body was on the frame straight!! 15 yr old body bushings let the body move down toward the frame, allow the body to sit crooked, etc.. All these take up valuble space. BE SURE to do your homework first!!
I always drop a plumb line from the inside lip of the fender and measure to the wheel flange on the axle, and from the line to the frame face. This tells me if the body is on the frame strait and if the axle is in the frame where it should be. Best be the same from side to side.
I hope we all are using the same method for measuring BS'ing.
I understand it is from the mounting face to the outerlip of the wheel, not the inner side of the bead seat.. Right? Wrong?
For those going to cut the frame.. A suggestion. Cut it w/ a plasma cutter and cut on the weld where the 2 pieces slip together. Cut to about 2" behind the rear lip of the wheelhouse and about 2" past the ft edge. Cut the ends on a 45 and finish gring the cuts straight. Use the piece you removed for a pattern.
I did it the HARD way..
I re-used the outer 1/2. That required I cut the lip on the outer plate down to near nothing and I had to spend several hours grinding thru the remaining weld to get the "inside" part of the outer shell out , so I could fit the outer 1/2 back into the inner. WHAT A BITCH !!Do yourself a favor and just weld a flat plate over the mess and be done in 4 hours.
WARNING!!! DO NOT cut on the frame until you have supported the ends at the bumper!! Failure to do so WILL allow the frame to sag!!! I used pieces of 1" sq. tube and BIG clamps to do this.
I also had the supporting stands for the car under the mounts for the ft end of the lower cont. arms. I also squared the chassis on the stands prior to doing the job.
When welding, weld a few inches, go elsewhere and allow the freshly welded area to "dry".
WORKS FOR ME!!
On my car, I too had SOME clearance at the ft and rear frame areas, BUT only after I added a 3/16" spacer. [15 X 8, 4"BS] The problem comes when you get body roll and sidewall deflection during driving, turning, driveway entry-exit, etc..
For anyone thinking of a "tight fitting" tire -wheel combo, I see many that would work if the body was on the frame straight!! 15 yr old body bushings let the body move down toward the frame, allow the body to sit crooked, etc.. All these take up valuble space. BE SURE to do your homework first!!
I always drop a plumb line from the inside lip of the fender and measure to the wheel flange on the axle, and from the line to the frame face. This tells me if the body is on the frame strait and if the axle is in the frame where it should be. Best be the same from side to side.
I hope we all are using the same method for measuring BS'ing.
I understand it is from the mounting face to the outerlip of the wheel, not the inner side of the bead seat.. Right? Wrong?
For those going to cut the frame.. A suggestion. Cut it w/ a plasma cutter and cut on the weld where the 2 pieces slip together. Cut to about 2" behind the rear lip of the wheelhouse and about 2" past the ft edge. Cut the ends on a 45 and finish gring the cuts straight. Use the piece you removed for a pattern.
I did it the HARD way..
I re-used the outer 1/2. That required I cut the lip on the outer plate down to near nothing and I had to spend several hours grinding thru the remaining weld to get the "inside" part of the outer shell out , so I could fit the outer 1/2 back into the inner. WHAT A BITCH !!Do yourself a favor and just weld a flat plate over the mess and be done in 4 hours.WARNING!!! DO NOT cut on the frame until you have supported the ends at the bumper!! Failure to do so WILL allow the frame to sag!!! I used pieces of 1" sq. tube and BIG clamps to do this.
I also had the supporting stands for the car under the mounts for the ft end of the lower cont. arms. I also squared the chassis on the stands prior to doing the job.
When welding, weld a few inches, go elsewhere and allow the freshly welded area to "dry".
WORKS FOR ME!!
REDS HOT AIR
Buick Tweaker
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
- Messages
- 3,433
your car looks like it has no frame cutting in the pics...am i looking at it correctly?
it looks like once i get done frame notching i should be able to get same tire under it with 15 by 10 with 5.5 back spacing...what you think ..sound about right??
it looks like once i get done frame notching i should be able to get same tire under it with 15 by 10 with 5.5 back spacing...what you think ..sound about right??
Rich,
Thanks for all the pics. I thought i was going crazy at 1st, i knew you ran this wheel combo. BTW do you have a side pics of the car with the wheel on? Just wanna see the look to the wheel well lip ect. I know, not only do i wanna be lucky in fitting this tire, but im concerned with looks too.
Red,
My buddy runs a 5in bs on his stage car. His frame is notched to the max, all the way to the back section of the frame. he stated that he can fit a 5.5 bs but not with a medium notch.
Thanks for all the pics. I thought i was going crazy at 1st, i knew you ran this wheel combo. BTW do you have a side pics of the car with the wheel on? Just wanna see the look to the wheel well lip ect. I know, not only do i wanna be lucky in fitting this tire, but im concerned with looks too.
Red,
My buddy runs a 5in bs on his stage car. His frame is notched to the max, all the way to the back section of the frame. he stated that he can fit a 5.5 bs but not with a medium notch.
REDS HOT AIR
Buick Tweaker
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
- Messages
- 3,433
thanks...since im putting a cage in the car im going to do a full notch since the cage will be strentining it back up...so im thinking i can fit 5.5 b/s wheels on it so the car can be lowered and not hit the 1/4's
now does anyone run a wolf bar with atr's 3" single exaust??
i dont like the way atrs sway bar fits the control arms so i'll probly go ahead with the wolf setup
I'm coming into this a little late, but I'll add my two cents.
On my car when the frame was mildly notched, I could run a 5" b/s but only with a 10" wheel. To figure out what fits you really need to compare "offset" not "backspacing". An 8" wheel with 5" b/s is going to put the same tire farther under the car then a 10" with the same b/s.
My frame is notched a lot more now and I am still running the Telstar 10" w/5" b/s. My new rims (if they ever get here) are 11" with 6" b/s. My car is also lowered.
REDS HOT AIR: I run a Wolfe setup in my car with a Terry Houston 3 1/2" so I'm sure an ATR 3" will fit. You may need to "modify" the tailpipe section slightly.
On my car when the frame was mildly notched, I could run a 5" b/s but only with a 10" wheel. To figure out what fits you really need to compare "offset" not "backspacing". An 8" wheel with 5" b/s is going to put the same tire farther under the car then a 10" with the same b/s.
My frame is notched a lot more now and I am still running the Telstar 10" w/5" b/s. My new rims (if they ever get here) are 11" with 6" b/s. My car is also lowered.
REDS HOT AIR: I run a Wolfe setup in my car with a Terry Houston 3 1/2" so I'm sure an ATR 3" will fit. You may need to "modify" the tailpipe section slightly.
Similar threads
