200 4R TCI vs. Bowtie Overdrives?

[StearmanR985]

Hiya,

I am on a seriously tight budget. I am working with a couple of people on here regarding my choices but in the interim; Does anywone have experience with tranny's from either company? I am specifically referring to TCI's Street Fighter and either Bowtie's level II or level III.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[84gnguy]

IMHO,if you are on a budget I would get a Monte SS core,get a local shop to rebuild it using a CK shift kit ,super servo and upgraded band.If you all ready have the trans,you are ahead of the game.
I had a local builder rebuild my BRF unit with a TransGo shiftkit,upgraded band and a Superior Super Servo for $1,100 installed.Recon D5 convertor included.
6 month/6,000 mile warranty and I can just drive it to the local shop if there is a problem (Knock on wood,1200 miles + no issues)
What do you do if there is an issue with the TCI or Bowtie unit?
Remove it yourself and ship it?

 

[fireduck350]

If you are on a serious budget, why not just build your own? These guys on here have some real good links to resources that can really help you out. If you can build an engine, you can build an automatic transmission. They aren't that hard. Plus, you will save yourself some serious money. I think it is great that people can get rebuilds done at shops and have them work properly, especially performance rebuilds. I have had 700R4s built by supposedly professional local shops that knew what they were doing, and the transmission quit within 400 miles of having it put in. This happened in two separate locations that I lived in. Then, because it was a performance rebuild, they accused me of racing the car and wouldn't cover anything under warranty. Even though I hadn't been racing, and I had even been babying the car, because I wasn't sure that the transmission would last. I got tired of it, pulled the transmission out, threw it on my work bench, tore it down, bought the parts, put it back together and it has been working since. A lot cheaper then taking it to the shop, and it has been more reliable then the last 5 rebuilds that the "professional" shops have done. Since doing this one, I have built 1 200-4R, 2 TH350s, 2 4L60Es and another 700R4. Not a lot by any standard, but they all are still running and working properly. I'm very satisfied with the ones I've done for my vehicles, and my friends are very happy with the ones I've done for their vehicles.

 

[Hacksaw]

That's also something to think about seriously. I've rebuilt a pair of 400's & a pair of 350's myself. Yes, they worked fine afterwards. The money you can save can be spent on improved internal parts, like billet shafts & roller bearings. The hard part on doing it yourself is bushing replacement, and if the pump need refinishing. Some Trans shop will do that for a fee a lot cheaper than a full rebuild. Yes, you should also true the pump cover on a 200-4R when you replace the crummy stock stator support. You will also need a good transmission manual.

You can use c clamps to compress clutches springs. You WILL need a dial gauge for the 3 end play adjustments. A 0-120 in/lbs torque wrench is nice. You can rent a transmission jack. You will also need feeler gauges, a drill, a set of drills (valvebody & pump drainback modifications), a metric socket set, a clean pan to soak new frictions in ATF, a tubing wrench for the cooler lines, a clean work bench, some trans assembly lube, inside & outside snapring pliers, and solvent.

There are some specialty tools for 200-4R you see online, but most valvebody kits/improved servos skip the need for a band adjusting tool. You won't need that expsive overrun clutch compressor, you can work the snap ring around. The rear shaft support tool is nice, but you can find ways around that.