3800 series engine

[jaguarking11]

since every pound matters, the ls2 weighs less than the 4200! 420 lb fyi.

the ecotecs are around 255 lb, and the turbo ecotec is a little heavier at 286 lb. you can easily get 300 hp out of a 2.2 with a t28 turbo. the 2.4 makes 177 bhp - and close to 200 with cai and headers.

what are you doing with this car? why does it need 300 hp? remember, the lotus exige has 220 bhp (and only 167 lb-ft), weighs 2077 lb, and it does 0-60 in 4.1 seconds.

@300 hp it would have the power to weight ratio of exotic. around 400hp/ton. Its going to be a corner carver. I was looking into the 2.2L ecotec actually and found a bell housing for a 5speed tremec.

To me its the challenge of building a supercar for the price of a used crappy car. Fun project. In any case, my goal is 300hp. I hope 12inch rear rubber can handle that.

Out of curiosity where are you getting the engine weight specs? I have been looking high and low.

 

[turbo3.8monza]

For a good 5 speed manual transmission you should the asain/warner AX-15. you can find in two and four wheel drive jeep cherokees from 84 to 95, but from 84 to 87 has the correct bellhousing to fit the 60 degree/v6 pattern of the 3800. The AX-15 is used small block chevy conversion in cherokees it good for about 450 ft. lbs. in a cherokee so more in a light weight vehicle. The AX-15 shifts much smoother than T5s and just as plentiful

 

[turbo3.8monza]

oops little snafu in my records on this transmission but here is the correct information and identification
The Aisin Warner AX15 transmission is a medium-duty, standard shift, five-speed transmission introduced in the 1988 (mid-year) YJ Wrangler and XJ / MJ Cherokee / Comanche Jeeps, and found in 1988-1999 Jeep XJ, YJ & TJ models. Its only year in the ZJ Grand Cherokee was 1993, and only with the six-cylinder.

The AX15 is found behind the AMC 258 and the Mopar 4.0L (242 ci) I6 engine. The AX15 is also found in Dakota trucks and is closely related to the Toyota R154 as found in the Supra Turbo and Four Runner, though the case rear halves and gear ratios vary. It is also related to or referred to as the AN5, AR5, MA5 in GM and Isuzu applications.

The AX15 was available in Jeeps in both 2wd (typ. XJ / MJ applications) and 4wd versions.

Features
The AX15 is a split-case, top shifting, overdrive transmission with the shifter being located in the rear section of the transmission. The AX15 is fully synchronized in all gears. All gears are helically cut.

Gear ratios for the AX15 are: 3.83, 2.33, 1.44, 1.00, 0.79, for first through fifth, respectively.

Identification
The 4wd version of the AX15 transmission case is 16-1/2" long. It features a cast aluminum case with a cast-aluminum mid-plate. The case is generously ribbed and features the shifter in the rear quarter of the assembly. In the vein of newer transmissions, the AX15 uses dowel pins for bellhousing alignment.

The 4wd version of the Jeep AX15 has a 23 spline output shaft for connecting to the transfer case input shaft. This shaft protrudes about 1/2" past the rear face of the transmission.

The AX15 was used with an internal slave/throwout assembly up through the 1993 model year. In 1994, a more conventional slave cylinder and cross-arm were used. The input shaft is a 10 spline x 1-1/8" and its stickout length is 7-1/2".

1988 to 1991 AX15 input shafts have a smaller (~19/32") pilot tip. 1992-1999 AX15's have a larger (~3/4") pilot tip.

The AX4 from 84-86/ early 87 with the 2.8l chevy 60 degree/V6 uses a bellhousing that will bolt up to the AX15 and the 3800

 

[cstavro]

Out of curiosity where are you getting the engine weight specs? I have been looking high and low.

i am a member of SAE, and get wonderful technical mags every month. i actually got those particular figures from a greek car mag this past september. it was the 1.6L ecotec and 1.6L turbo...both with cast iron blocks. 115 and 130 kg, respectively.

just to blow your mind...
Midget Engines, Blocks and Hardware Mopar High Performance Parts Dodge Chrysler Muscle Car Race Parts
350 hp from 2.66L. 220 lb total weight you could pick up a used one for a few grand.

225 section tires will be plenty for 300 hp. going to larger tires will lessen traction. you need a certain pressure at the tire contact patch. use dot legal R compound tires, like kumho V712. 15" wheels are lighter, and 10-11" single rotor brakes are more than adequate.

hp doesn't make a car handle better. lotus' motto is 'performance through light weight'. even their top exige only has 220 hp. it does 0-60 in 4.1 seconds.

the most important aspect of frame building is torsional strength; it should be 50x your roll rates. have you decided on roll rates, spring rates, camber curves, etc? a book i found very useful is carroll smith's pt-91.

 

[jaguarking11]

I have not worked out full details on this thing. I plainly set a figure that would make me happy as far as hp. I will most likely order a prebuilt frame. The generally use 3800's and s10 transmissions on those. The chasis is prebuilt so that will save me quite a bit of time. However I am not beyond building my own.

I shall wait and see. providing I keep getting side jobs I will be able to put together a budget until I hit mid summer. Then I will buy the necessary parts and keep going. Until then I am collecting odd bits and ends. I am looking for a mazda miata IRS as of now. The chassis can be modified from the plans for the frame to accept a miata axle or just buy the frame already built for it..

 

[cstavro]

the big car companies are finally realizing that designing and simulating cars is WAY cheaper, and quicker than building it, testing it, modding it, re-testing it, etc.

have you got performance goals? 0-60, 60-0, slalom, lateral acceleration...

even if you buy a professionally designed rolling chassis, you'll still have to tune it...but it won't be much more than setting corner weights, ride height, and an alignment. here's one of the best books about supension tuning.

Amazon.ca: Hands-On Race Car Engineer: Books: John H. Glimmerveen

 

[jaguarking11]

the big car companies are finally realizing that designing and simulating cars is WAY cheaper, and quicker than building it, testing it, modding it, re-testing it, etc.

have you got performance goals? 0-60, 60-0, slalom, lateral acceleration...

even if you buy a professionally designed rolling chassis, you'll still have to tune it...but it won't be much more than setting corner weights, ride height, and an alignment. here's one of the best books about supension tuning.

Amazon.ca: Hands-On Race Car Engineer: Books: John H. Glimmerveen

Thanks for the link. I appreciate it.

 

[cstavro]

just trying to resurrect a 2 yr old thread i hope things worked out!