82 regal question!! Please help!!

[b4black]

The downpipe is narrow. The SFI cars have all benefited from larger DP's, so it follows that it's a problem for use as well. ATR makes a 2½" DP for the 84/85, that 75% correct for us. We just need to get them to put the correct top portion on and we would be in business.

More air being sucked thru the carb means more fuel. But some fattening up helps suspress knock. Changing secondary metering rods is simple.

 

[fuzzygsxr]

OK well here are my ideas:

1. up pipe needs to be bigger to allow more flow to the turbo with less restriction.

2. down pipe needs to be bigger ID for smoother flow as well out of the turbo.

3. change metering rods and put a mech. boost controler with a gauge. Maybe even make a block off plate for the stock waste gate, and put an external one for a little better spool up and more precise release.

I don't know, I just want to make this thing run 12's to prove it can be done, without a ton of money sunk into it. OK so maybe 13's????

 

[BADAZZV6]

What about blocking off the 1" pipe that runs from the intake to the base under the carb? That thing gets seriously hot. It can't help performance to let hot gases or what ever it is into the carb base.

 

[fuzzygsxr]

True, but doesn't it run from the smog CRAP to the bast under the carb??? What is it called I just got my chilton's yesturday.

 

[b4black]

Throw the Chilton away and get a factory manual.

The pipe is only on 82/83's. It has EGR gases going thru it. It heats the plenum faster at start up than the 78/81's which used coolant. The plenum is heated to keep the fuel from puddling. Without it, the engine will bog.

Unhooking the EGR will keep the gas from going thru it. I didn't notice any difference performance-wise when my EGR went bad and quit opening.


A bigger up-pipe and external wastegate won't impact performance much IMO. A boost gauge, knock gauge and ~$30 home-made alcohol injection will get you much further.

Gotta get into the 15's before the 13's.
http://home.flash.net/~rjgeorge/racing.htm

 

[BADAZZV6]

I checked your link, should have read it a little more carefully earlier. I just installed new AC R45TS (I think) gapped at 0.060. I guess those will have to go. You mentioned a knock sensor from Caspers. I contacted them about my 82 and they said it only works on 84/87 cars that have ESC. I have ESC in my 82, it should still work right??

I was dubbing around out back after I installed the boost gauge to check boost levels and it would not build boost. I don't believe I was at operating temp. I took it in the garage and power braked it. I didn't get into it to awfully bad (old gas). It still wouldn't build boost. My back brakes still need bleeding and it just spun and half filled the garage with smoke. The wife was impressed. Now the french vanilla air freshener has taken on a fresh rubber smell. I'm assuming I need to be up to full temp for the 4 barrells to open. Is that when these cars will build boost??

Rich,
Thanks for the wiring diagrams, very nice and helpful. Where does one pick up a factory manual for these cars?

 

[b4black]

You might as well stick with those plugs for now. I'd go with 44's @ 0.035 once you get the rest sorted out.


The guys at Casper's don't know much about the pre-SFI cars. '83 works for sure - same ESC as 84/87 and I have the gauge in my car. I'm not 100% on the 81/82 cars. I spoke with John Spina the owner of Casper's and he tought it would work. I have the gauge for my '82, I just haven't found time to install (damn work and family keeps getting in the way!) You might want to wait to I install mine, but I can't promise anytime soon.

Another good option is to get a OTC Monitor scan tool. Model 2, 3 or 85 will work on your car and are fairly cheap on ebay ~$20-$30. They show knock and all the rest of the sensors too. I recommend getting even if you get the Casper's gauge.

Find the shop manual on ebay too. Should be less than $20.


You probably won't be able to build boost power braking. You'll hit the torque converter's stall speed first. On the road, you should be able to see about 5 psi before the secondaries open up, 9 at WOT.