' 84 Waste gate Vacuum connections

[Lockman]

Hey ya'all,
I read recently that the larger waste gate vacuum nipple is supposed to be open , with a sock type filter ? Was that for a different year than '84 ? Does this look right for my " 84 ?

 

[Dzoid1]

 

[Lockman]

Appreciate the layout & diagram, but I have that . I used it to rout all new hoses last month.
My question Is : whitch side can go to air/ sock filter, if I removed it from the vacuum block ? It looks to be at the wastegate Solenoid side, but I need a 10/4 on this , please. Anyone.... Buehler.....Bluehler..... anyone ? ( )

 

[Jerryl]

Not sure about the question?
Any vacuum leak is "no good" so there can't be any open nipples.
The smallest of vacuum leaks will impact in the BLM and INT values.

Not sure if that answers your question?

 

[Lockman]

Thank for you interest , Jerryl. To explain myself : In the first pic that Dzoid1 sent, there is a notation that states " This line can be deleted so that this port vents to atmosphere" .
I misunderstood, and I thank Dzoid1 for posting that pic & diagram. The port that can be left open is not on the vacuum block, it is on the wastegate solaenoid.
Can you please explain to me ( ) why my ' 84 wastegate actuator has 2 vacuume lines ?. Would it have anything to do with the fact that I have a Digital dash , with a Low Boost indicator light & a Hi Boost light?
Thanks for your help , both of you !

 

[grass doctor]

you can mold your own vacuum lines with a coat hanger or any metal piece , use a heat gun and mold of originals if you have then

 

[Jerryl]

. . . . Can you please explain to me ( ) why my ' 84 wastegate actuator has 2 vacuume lines ?. Would it have anything to do with the fact that I have a Digital dash , with a Low Boost indicator light & a Hi Boost light?
Thanks for your help , both of you !

The dual port waste gate on the 84 is the correct unit, and unrelated to dash type or boost light.

It essentially uses 2 different pressure sources to control the boost.

I personally see value in a dual port WG because it could essentially be regulated on the same *principle* as an external gate. This has been my plan for some time on the HA.

Hope that helps.

 

[Lockman]

It Does , Jerryl, I am set up that way now, so after your explanation I will leave it the way it is now.
I replaced the Cruise Control Servo when I did my new Vacuum lines . at driving speed , of say 40 to 45 mph, if I accelerate , by peddle feels dull & it seems slow to respond ? I realized it doesn't " Kick Down" like on other automatics ?
Is that my throttle cable adjustments ? I'm thinking yes , since I had all of them off my throttle body and I most likely moved them incorrectly on reattachment . Is the one known as the " TVA " ?
Do you know of a proper procedure for hooking them up ? I will read thru My TSM , that I have from the PO.
Thanks, again.

 

[Jerryl]

"Feeling dull" is a relative term and the reasons behind this could be many things, including but not limited to the transmission not down shifting.

The correct way to set the TV cable, is with a pressure gage.

Of you want to see (test only! ) if the dullness is boost related, remove the DS line on the wastegate and plug it. Ease into the thottle, watch the boost gage, and be ready to lift around 5-7 psi.

Which transmission is in the car, and what did it come out of?
What converter, turbo and cam?

 

[Lockman]

Hello Jerryl,
I've got an updated ' 82 , 700R4 W/ Overdrive, Bolted up to my 1984 Buick Turbo SFI V6 .
Engine is from a 1984 GN Regal. I have no Idea what converter, or Cam . I believe it is all stock ? The Turbo has a Garrett housing cover with M10 stamped on it.
All of this is in my 1975 Jeep CJ5 , To which there is not another like it. I did not build this . I discovered it in Nevada and brought it Home.
I was trained as a mechanic , many years ago. I am trying to get it to run & tune the best I can do. I am not a Purist , nor do I go to the Track. I have been acquiring OEM replacement parts and replacing them as I feel is needed, according to things I have learned on this forum. I'm currently working on lowering the fuel pressure , gradually, to try to get rid of a ' pop 'in the exhaust, that happens when goosing it , in Park . I use a diagnostic Bluetooth adapter from John Wales @ 1320 Electronics . Below is a pic of my latest data & other Pics. Thanks for your interest . I realize and appreciate the fact that I have no where near the knowledge that you guys have with these Buick engines.

 

[Jerryl]

Can you tell us what the engine RPM is when it starts building boost?

I don't know much about transmissions and definitely less about the 700R4. The calibration for the 200R4 in the HA is specific to those years. This *could* be part of the dullness, along with the converter and combo.

One thing I learned about these cars over the years; Trust but verify every detail

Hope that makes sense.

 

[Lockman]

Yes it Does , Jerryl. I understand . It's around 3500 RPM. This was a custom , custom , custom build ! Yes , it looks great.... but I mostly bought this for the great condition of The Jeep itself. Pretty Rare these days. The unknown to me tech or team that built this knew what they were doing, Any way, I am thinking that I have to find a Buick guy in my area. Rochester, NY 14616. I do have a top notch Jeep guy, witch I will be talking too. I may swap out the turbo to a fuel injected engine. This engine has way to much unneeded power & speed for an Intermediate year classic 4 WD Jeep . I will have a fair amount of valuable OEM Hot Air parts for someone out there in the future. Thaks for your support in this going forward. I don't mean to frustrate anyone. You guys know your Buick GN Turbo's . I'm trying to work on the best of both Worlds & that ain't easy! ( BTW, I've always have had the Jeep part down pretty well )

 

[Jerryl]

Definitely a fantastic build and great ride.

I don't think anyone is getting frustrated as you have been nothing but professional with the questions and responses. Most don't know or care much about the HA platform so advice and replies will be limited. Therfore, I would caution who you have work on the car for your hard earned money.

IMHO: If you want less power, just limit the right foot travel, lower the boost, or disconnect the waste gate. It would be a shame to go through all that work and end up in the same spot.

Good luck with the car.

 

[Lockman]

Great advice. Would Disconnecting the wastegate would kinda turn this into a Fuel injected Engine, ?. What is the procedure to lower the Boost & disconnecting the wastegate ? I would then tune to that ?

 

[Lockman]

I think I've got a Passenger side header crack. Recommended Fuel Pressure adjustments send my Idle BLM's up to 144. Driving , they drop down to 130 or lower . Makes sense.
Anyway , I've got to get back to ideal #'s first, in the next few weeks. Then I can decide from there. I'll leave the Boost & wastegate alone & Keep my foot out of it. After that, I should go trailriding !

 

[Jerryl]

The neat thing about turbos is the ability to regulate HP within a wide window. On a given setup, the HP is added by increasing manifold pressure. If that pressure is limited or reduced, the engine performance is as well.

So to limit manifold ppressure; Disconnect the arm of the waste gate actuator the waste gate flapper at the turbo. It will be very slow to build boost and most likely stil build some boost. The manifold pressure (boost) is also known as the minimum boost setting. That may reduce the performance enough to your liking.

You can also try connecting a hose directly from the turbo nipples to the DS port of the waste gate. It will help lower rpm responsiveness and limit boost quicker.

Another option is to simply regulate the throttle or build a throttle stop.

 

[Jerryl]

I think I've got a Passenger side header crack. Recommended Fuel Pressure adjustments send my Idle BLM's up to 144. Driving , they drop down to 130 or lower . Makes sense.
Anyway , I've got to get back to ideal #'s first, in the next few weeks. Then I can decide from there. I'll leave the Boost & wastegate alone & Keep my foot out of it. After that, I should go trailriding !

Don't worry about ideal BLM numbers. The important number is the AFR. As long as the ECM is able to make the adjustments (add or remove fuel) the ECM will take care of the AFR.

When weather and fuel blend change, ideal numbers will no longer be ideal.

 

[Lockman]

' When weather and fuel blend change, ideal numbers will no longer be ideal. "
I'll say ..... Friday was 83 & Humid . Sunday it's 58 & rainy ! When one looks at these tunes so close , one realize's that there's so many varibles , it could drive one crazy , if you let it.
BTW, Were you able to open my driving log data that I posted earlier ? I'm getting zero knock , so that is very important.
I 'm gonna take your advice & just drive & enjoy it . That was the original intention , afterall !

 

[Jerryl]

I did not look at the log.
If you get zero KR, I would just drive and enjoy it. It will last a long time at zero KR and stock performance levels.