'86 Buick Regal T-Type, Rear Brake Line

[Paladin]

Rear brake line failed last night, need to replace it. I need to know where it starts/ends, how it is routed, and possibly what the specs are on it. I checked GNTTYPE but they don't have much on brakeline routing or replacement that I could find. I saw some diagrams from a guy with instructions for installing a line-lock, it looks like there is only one brake line going to the rear end from the master cylinder... Should I just take a bit of the old line over to Napa and have them cut me a length of new line? I do plan on replacing all the lines, but the weather is turning over here in NY and pretty soon I won't be able to work on the Buick until Spring.

Also, in relation to the car not starting, I turned it over this morning and it fired right up. Figure that one out. I think it is posessed.

Sam

 

[Paladin]

Ok, I have pics now.

Go to http://www.tothemetal.net/gfx/brake/ I have pics up there, I'm hoping someone has a good idea here, some advice. Could just push it over to the brake place down the street, but what fun is there in that!

Sam

 

[b4black]

Since you want to replace them all eventually anyway, get a complete pre-bent kit from either www.classictube.com or www.inlinetube.com Search the archives, becuase I've heard good about one and bad about the other, but don't remember which was which. They aren't cheap, but not outrageous either.

HTH

 

[salvageV6]

You can get braided lines to replace the existing rubber parts from Jegs for about $80 or so.

I would email one of the used parts guys, Brian or Mike, and pick up the metal line you need to replace.

If Buick still has one new that would be good also, I doubt it however.

Then you can finish the rest of the metal ones later.

 

[roz930]

Replacing the steel line isn't too tough. I'm guessing conventional 3/16". Should just run from brake proportioning valve (inside frame rail below steering column) to rubber hose at rear axle. Best thing to replace it all from end to end, although if you have access to a double flaring tool you can reflare your existing line and replace what's rusty. Good Luck!

 

[NASSTY]

For a quick fix until spring.Just cut the worst part of the brakeline shouldnt be more than a foot or two.Get a piece of brake line and a couple compression unions and just join the new piece in with the compression unions.Cheap fix until spring.

 

[tazgn]

Since I was an idiot and cut my rear brake line when installing new fuel lines (don't ask), I can say i know how the lines are arranged. There is one line that goes from the back of the proportioning valve, along the inside of the drivers side frame rail, up over the axle to a T located above the differential. Then there are 2 smaller lines from the T to each rear brake. I made a temporary repair to my brake line that is working until I get the ambition to tackle the replacement.

Does anyone know if these lines are available from GM?????

Derrick

 

[John Larkin]

You can replace from the proportioning valve back to the rear brake hose near the axle for about $15. You need 1/4" brake line. A 60" piece, a 30" piece, an 8" adapter line (1/2" fitting on one end and 1/4" flare on the other and 2 brass 1/4" unions. With proper bending, it works like a dream. NAPA has that adapter line; it's the same thread as the master cylinder outlet so it's easy to match up (9/16" hex). The biotch of the job is removing the clamp between the floorpan and the frame almost dead nuts under the hinge pillar. There is basically no room to get on the bolt head because the fuel lines are in the way. I took a chisel and gently/carefully broke the clamp in two. Then I bent it back out of the way and continued replacing the brake line. Getting the hard line separated from the rear brake hose was no picnic either; I ended up with Vise-Grips since the line was being trashed anyhow. Pretty easy to do all this with a decent bender and some patience. I have part numbers for most of this stuff if anyone needs it.