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dgreen

Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2011
Messages
64
cars runs 14.01 basically stock would like to be low 13's high 12's whats the best route
 
Most everyone will recommend an alcohol injection kit.

There are several performance mods that can be done fairly easy. You also need to concentrate on your suspension to make it hook.

Remove the heated coolant that feeds the bottom of the Throttle Body
Install a 160 degree thermostat
Either purchase or design your own fresh air intake. I use an AFE Pro-Guard 7 open element type of air filter attached to the MAF wedged underneath my A/C lines
Purchase a Turbo Tweek chip & the required adjustable fuel pressure regulator

There is more that can be done of course. You need to buy a ScanMaster at the very minimum so you can monitor knock retard, etc. Do many searches & read all that you can from this forum. Perform the "Spring Cleaning". http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html

That should get you started.

~JM~
 
Tell me if I'm wrong here guys but I don't think you need alky to run low 13s. I haven't been to the track yet but I can't be far off that with my current setup. The question is, will you be satisfied with low 13s once you get there? I'm not.
 
11.90, no alky, with 51 turbo,
Nothing wrong with race gas unless you feel it is important to race around on the street on pump gas.
Cool toy yes !
Required for 12's ? No
 
Thanks for all the help, looks like i have some work to do! Are most ScanMasters around 250.00?
 
Most everyone will recommend an alcohol injection kit.

There are several performance mods that can be done fairly easy. You also need to concentrate on your suspension to make it hook.

Remove the heated coolant that feeds the bottom of the Throttle Body
Install a 160 degree thermostat
Either purchase or design your own fresh air intake. I use an AFE Pro-Guard 7 open element type of air filter attached to the MAF wedged underneath my A/C lines
Purchase a Turbo Tweek chip & the required adjustable fuel pressure regulator

There is more that can be done of course. You need to buy a ScanMaster at the very minimum so you can monitor knock retard, etc. Do many searches & read all that you can from this forum. Perform the "Spring Cleaning". http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html

That should get you started.

~JM~

Not trying to hi-jack the thread, but I have a question on one of your recommendations. It may also help the OP.
You say to attach the air filter directly to the MAF. I'm assuming you're using a stock MAF. What did you do with the ATS? I tried this over the weekend (only with filter attached to the 90* elbow that has the ATS in it), and it didn't work well. Got weird readings from the SM on O2's (like 011 at WOT), and power was WAY down at WOT. Sounded cool, though!
I tried it your way first with the filter directly on the MAF, but didn't consider the ATS until I got a mal code 23 on the SM.
 
Not trying to hi-jack the thread, but I have a question on one of your recommendations. It may also help the OP.
You say to attach the air filter directly to the MAF. I'm assuming you're using a stock MAF. What did you do with the ATS? I tried this over the weekend (only with filter attached to the 90* elbow that has the ATS in it), and it didn't work well. Got weird readings from the SM on O2's (like 011 at WOT), and power was WAY down at WOT. Sounded cool, though!
I tried it your way first with the filter directly on the MAF, but didn't consider the ATS until I got a mal code 23 on the SM.

I just drilled a hole in the neck of the air filter housing & stuck it in there. Works just fine as long as it is in the flow path.

~JM~
 
Thanks for the tip. The K&N I have won't have room for the hole in the neck for it. Kinda sucks - I have two K&N filters for this car; don't want the original style & can't use the other!
Sorry to the OP for the hi-jack.
 
Drill a hole in the back of the filter as close to the opening as possible & it should work just fine.

~JM~
 
To go from 14's to 13's all you need is a set of sticky tires
 
Get 160 degree thermostat

Loose the catalectic convertor an get test pipe (.4th's)

Get nice race "chip" for the track(keep a street chip for daily driving),add K@N filter,duel exhaust (Chip,Exhaust,Filter basically)

Turn boost up to 19-20 psi manually or buy a bleed-off valve use 100 octane plus fuel (you can get away with about 17-18 psi on just 93 octane if exhaust flows an nice chip on the street)

Add one set street/strip tires for the back....

(plus many little free things you can do: loose the intercooler screen,block off by-pass throttle body coolant lines,Loose the pass. side oil breather to turbo an add press in k&n filter, change the shift points on top the throttle body with push of button,hot wire the fan ballast resister,i've forgot all of them... )

i was running 12.50's bone stock,motor,turbo,trans.,etc,etc street tires (L60 McCeary's) full exhaust an still under Factory Warranty in the 80's with said above...heh..8^)
(my test pipe was welded to the down pipe an other downpipe had factory converter,i'd jack the front the car up "ALOT", an they'd cork screw in an out,shhh)

Enjoy!
 
Just a set of drag radials and an open air filter on the MAF is enough to run low 13's at the strip. Even with the stock chip and catalytic converter still in place. Just let it cool down for a while. I'd probably throw a fuel pump in and run it off the back of the alternator if you haven't already. After that you can delete the catalytic converter and throw a chip in. For simplicity since you aren't looking to go very fast you don't really need much else. 17psi boost with a good hook and you should be there.
 
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