97 Riviera..differences

[UrbsNSpices]

Hey folks,

Well Ive had my Riv for nine months and now its time for a few mods. Im already working on the cold air intake, and I have a new pulley on the way.

I see all the GP and Regal designed mods, is there any reason that they wouldn't physically fit or more importantly performance wise if there might be issues with parts designed for other GM cars. Im not too worried but it would be nice to hear from some one else beefin up a Riv. Ive searched for a faq and previous threads with out much luck.

Any opinions on what the next step should be? It would be a shame to rip out that stainless exhaust, but..

-Urbs
Pardon my ignorance

-97 SC Riv, pearlized white
CAI
Thrasher 3.4 Pulley

 

[T-Keith]

Almost all the engine mods should work, save for the PCM. Headers might be a problem too. I would definately recomend a tranny cooler too, best one you can find.

 

[UrbsNSpices]

Pulley In...

Put the pulley on last night, adds a nice kick. I got so excited I didnt put the Wiper fluid resevoir back in. Should be nice driving home through the salt tonight..

As for the tranny cooler, I know a new one can be had for fairly cheap, 45$ with shipping or so, I think... But is there any reason I cant yank one out of a truck or van? Is it worth the time and pain? If it is what should I look for? Any tips?



Urbs

 

[T-Keith]

No reason you can't use a truck's one, they're usually pretty big and cheap. You'll have to rig up the mounting yourself though. The plate type are much better than the back and forth tubing ones also.

 

[UrbsNSpices]

Trans cooler

Thanks for the help Keith.

I may go to the yard this weekend and search for one. Any hints on which makes or models of trucks would have an ideal radiator? I guess Ill just poke around till I find a decent one. As for mounts, I have some angle aluminum just dying to be bandsawed.

Last night I was out cruzin and after pounding it a few times i started hearing this loud squeek which was constant untill I gave it the slightest gas. The squeek would stop untill I was coasting again. After I hit the highway on the way home it stopped completely so I wasnt able to look into it when I got home. Could this be blower related? I guess it could be a belt, they are due for a change. I would think an alternator would squeek constantly, if you were accelarating or not.

Urbs

 

[T-Keith]

Ford Rangers almost always have a cooler out front, a good size plate one at that. Also a Dodge with the Cummins have a huge one, maybe too big.

I'd be willing to bet the sqeaking is belt related.

-T

 

[UrbsNSpices]

trans cooler

The intermittant squeek was totally the belt. I used a straight piece of Al and realized that the SC pulley wasnt completely lined up with the tensioner and another pulley. I backed the pulley off a little under an 8th.

The belts still need to be changed, but an engine mount is placed in the center of each belt. Ive never had to remove an engine mount to change a belt before. What do I have to do? Can I do this with only a jack? It seems like there is a good possibility of screwing things up.

I was looking at my Bros Regal this weekend. Engine mounts on the front and back. Thats nice. Wonder if there is any reason for that aside from body size.



Went to the yard and yanked a trans cooler. First I pulled an aftermarket one out of an old wagoneer. It was the flat plate style up it was rather small. I ended up pulling one from a later model bronco or ranger. I forget which. But it is a really nice flat plate style. There were some slightly larger coil types (and some huge ones), but Im happy with this one.

I know most often the cooler is mounted in front of the radiator, but I have so much space in the inside I could mount it on the inside. Im thinking it would be closer to the fans, but then again it would be closer to the egine too. I doubt it would cause air flow problems. Also Im debating weather to run this cooler in line with the stock one. Any opinions



Urbs

 

[GTP-1]

GM did this on a few 3800's. Don't know why. Not a real pattern either as to vehicles setups. All i can say is i have done it and it isn't fun. You can't take the mount all the way off i don't think. I think a mounting bolt is located under a pulley (power steering i beleive). You can eventually get it off with taking a stud out from underneath that holds a spacer tub for the mount. you will have to just look. Took me about 2 hours. On my '99 GTP it took me 5 minutes. GM needs shoot for these. Took a real good engine and started screwing it up. Check on a price for a shoip to do it, usually pretty reasonable.

 

[UrbsNSpices]

trans cooler

Well I put the transmission cooler in last night. It was simple enough. I ran the hoses around the driver side of the radiator. There was a perfect slot for the run. Also the hoses fit nicely under the bottom edge of the 'scoop' Double hose clamped everything and it was good to go.

I still have to work on some sort of braket. It going to be mounted just off center. One bracket wil attach to one of the tubular supports that run across the center of Rad the other will drop down from the hard plasic cowel around the Radiator. Right now its all zip-tied in.

I removed the front temperature sensor so I could run the hoses under/behind the scoop. I may move it so its not so close to the cooler. Anyway, I didnt replace it be for I took it for a spin. I noticed the outside temp would flash a default 69*. I wish it was 70 out, it was snowing last night. When I got back and was checking for leaks, the engine seemed to be knocking a bit. I dont have a sensor so I cant be sure but it seemed to be running a tad funny. I run 92-3 gas.

Driving with out the outside temp sensor in would do this, would it?

 

[camlifter]

had same problem changing belt on my riv. at bottom of mount you will find a through bolt and spacer, take bolt out as far as you can, it will hit frame and not come out, cut it in half with sawsall, remove both halfs and spacer, cut threaded part of bolt and use as a stud with thick nut and thread into block. cut spacer to fit, use new shorter bolt to tighten mount into stud and nut you just made now you can change belts at road side if needed

 

[UrbsNSpices]

yeaup

Camlifter, I had to read your post 5 times. At first I though you were nuts but it isnt a half bad idea.

When I first tried this I actually had the engine jacked up and had that through bolt halfway out when I realized it was going to take a lot more. Like removing the engine mount from the block. I chickened out, partly because the way I had the jack supporting the engine was super getto. And I had to drive it to work in the morning.
I ended up having a shop do it.

Welp, Im looking for my next mod. Cant afford the whole exhaust right now. I have a friend who will weld me up a down pipe and test pipe....or maybe work up some sort of scoop to get more cool air to that K&N

Urbs
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97 Riviera
K&N, 3.4pulley, Trans Cooler