they recommended to open up the inside of the tube but it didnt seem like it mattered, we did anyway. Yes, bolt goes in from behind thru the bracket and the cclip elims, then a nut goes on the end to tighten it all together. I'll see if i have some pics of it.
no nut , bolts thread into outboard half of c-clip eliminator
the stock flange isnt flat (its recessed by tube ) and they dont provide a shim (its not designed for one either) so top of flange had to be removed.
the aluminum caliper mounting plate could have been trimmed but that could affect the strength so i went with what they provided , or the flange could have been ground flat but cutting was simple
rest is same as you would for a c-clip elim install
press elimnator outer half and bearing to axles
OE bearing and seals have to be removed and the end of the axle tube cut back flush to flange (can leave a little )
flange needs to be drilled to older GM small pattern , lower holes are there from old backer plate but they need to be opened up to just over 3/8 , upper bolt holes need to be carefully marked and drilled
bolt it all together and then set rotor on axle and throw a couple lugnuts on to hold rotor tight
using shims provided add shims between caliper to center on rotor and bolt caliper on
install pads with tube spacer and then the through bolt
you would need to be in contact with strange when doing this as the street eliminator required a custom machined inbound eliminator half to work with the disc brakes (which I had to call them and have made), if you just ordered parts from a catolog company youd be scratching your head , we called them to avoid parts mismatch issues and even though they knew what was neededand sent parts to make it happen they had a design diagram error which wouldnt work . Strange support was very good at getting parts made and out to us to make it happen. i was very impressed with the fit of their machined parts
