a few questions before the new fuel pump goes in

[fly89gta]

ok, i have the stock pump in till tomorrow, along with a 237 regulator

my O2's on my scanmaster read around 860 driving around town(they still bounce around) but they are generally around 840-860, isn't that WAY tooo rich???

i'm running rich down low and knocking up high(i've yet to go WOT in fear of the stock pump dying)..i'm getting like 4* knock, now i DO have a busted drivers side motor mount now

Could the regulator be bad? allowing too much FP down low, then the ****ty pump leaning out up top(though my O2's are still in the low 800's up top)

can anyone give me some opinions?

 

[2QUIK6]

Use the BLM cell number as a determination of running rich/lean when not at WOT, but generally speaking .860 would be a rich.
As far as the rich down low, lean up high, that could be any number of things: fueling in chip programming, fuel pump weak, fuel pump not having enough voltage, regulator, over boosting, and a host of others I'm sure, could be false O2 readings if you have an exhaust leak.
Tune it at about 15-16# boost on pump gas, no more.
Also, what size injectors do you have? I had the same problem with several chips for 40#ers until JayC burned me a chip.
With a broken motor mount, hard to say if the KR is real, empty the tank and put in a few gallons a 103 unleaded and see if you still have knock, if so, its probably false.
*
make sure you hotwaire the new pump when you put it in, and cut off the first inch or so of the metal feed line where it is necked down to a smaller diameter, you'll see when you get the old pump out where the pulsator attaches.

 

[fly89gta]

stock injectors i'm running

BLM's are around 105-115 unless i kinda get on it, then they go to 125-128.

I have a Trasher 92, unfortunately i don't have my boost gauge hooked up yet

could it even be false knock? i do have a busted motor mount.

could bad injectors even be the culprit?

oh yeah i'm getting like 12-15 mpg around town too

 

[Jimn8or]

FP job: Use solder, NOT crimp on connectors! Zip-tie the negative wire to the p/u tube to eliminate vibration on this wire. Buy a new GM rubber O-ring as it has the three tits that keep it from spinning when you tap the lock-ring back in place. DON'T forget to connect the wiring together after your solder job. Lose the pulsator. Enjoy re-installing the sock...and it points to the p/s if I recall correctly. Hot-wire the new pump for certain! Instructions are on the gnttype site, Replace your engine mount with the HrParts piece and NEVER worry about it again. Go out and drive your car and let us know what it is, or isn't doing then.
Take your time and do these things right and you can scratch 'em from future potential problem lists...rush these things and you best leave 'em on that list.
HTH
Jim