I read this from TTA1456's websight and wondering what everyone uses as far as a sealant to fix the common rear main seal leak?
Here is what I've read.... but have a tought time finding this sealant. I have the engine out of the car and plan to fix it once and only once.
"For the actual installation... use the correct sealant on the block to cap surface. The GM shop manual recommends a specific sealant. Air can't get in between the cap and block mating surfaces, so RTV won't cure. You need an anaerobic sealant, which is what is called out in the GM shop manual. The book calls out #1052756, an anaerobic sealer, which cross-references to Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker. (thanks to the guy at the parts counter at my local dealership for looking that up.) You'll also want to get the Surface Prep and Accelerator for the sealant... they're not cheap-- about $12 for the sealant and $15 for the Prep/Accelerator.
There's a great deal of debate on how to seal the sides of the cap to the block. Some people fill the cavities with RTV, some use the side seals and pins. I *did* use the side seals included with the Fel-Pro rear main (not RTV), and so far, so good. Here was my procedure:
1. Apply grease to the new rear main seal. (break in lubrication for it) Pack the grease into the seal's lip. Forget this and you'll run it dry and burn it up on the first startup!
2. Roll the upper half of the rear main into the motor (clocked 1/4" from lining up with the seam) and put the other half of the seal in the cap... make sure you have the lip on the seals facing the right way!
3. Clean cap and block sealing surfaces with MEK (or any other suitable solvent) and let dry
4. Apply surface prep/primer to block surfaces using a Q-tip. The spraycan is messy and I don't know how the bearing surface would like being sprayed with this stuff.
5. Apply the anaerobic sealant to the top and sides of the cap opposite the groove for the side seals. You only want a VERY thin smear of the stuff on the top of the cap, otherwise it will squish out when you tighten the cap and go places you don't want it to, like the bearing.
6. Apply a light coat of anaerobic to all surfaces of the side seals and place into cap. Place the seals 1/8" or so ABOVE the machined surface of the cap. They'll be driven flush when you put the cap in, and better to have them start high and end flush than to start flush and get pushed down when you install the main and you'll be unable to push them up completely, so you'll have to pull the cap, clean/prep everything again and do it over. (Again, don't ask how I know this)
7. Wipe a little fresh oil on the bearing, make sure it's clean and free of debris one last time, then install the cap, and snug the bolts. Lightly tap the cap with a deadblow mallet to ensure it's fully seated.
8. Push up firmly on the side seals to make sure they're seated, then lightly paint the pins for side seals with the anaerobic sealant and drive them into place.
9. Torque the cap bolts to spec, working up to the final torque number in several steps.
10. Trim side seals flush with cap/block surface.
That's it... I let it dry for 48 hours, then put the pan back on (torque to 89 in-lb), lower the motor back down, and put everything back together."
Does anyone use any other type of sealant with good success as well?
-GNX7
Here is what I've read.... but have a tought time finding this sealant. I have the engine out of the car and plan to fix it once and only once.
"For the actual installation... use the correct sealant on the block to cap surface. The GM shop manual recommends a specific sealant. Air can't get in between the cap and block mating surfaces, so RTV won't cure. You need an anaerobic sealant, which is what is called out in the GM shop manual. The book calls out #1052756, an anaerobic sealer, which cross-references to Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker. (thanks to the guy at the parts counter at my local dealership for looking that up.) You'll also want to get the Surface Prep and Accelerator for the sealant... they're not cheap-- about $12 for the sealant and $15 for the Prep/Accelerator.
There's a great deal of debate on how to seal the sides of the cap to the block. Some people fill the cavities with RTV, some use the side seals and pins. I *did* use the side seals included with the Fel-Pro rear main (not RTV), and so far, so good. Here was my procedure:
1. Apply grease to the new rear main seal. (break in lubrication for it) Pack the grease into the seal's lip. Forget this and you'll run it dry and burn it up on the first startup!
2. Roll the upper half of the rear main into the motor (clocked 1/4" from lining up with the seam) and put the other half of the seal in the cap... make sure you have the lip on the seals facing the right way!
3. Clean cap and block sealing surfaces with MEK (or any other suitable solvent) and let dry
4. Apply surface prep/primer to block surfaces using a Q-tip. The spraycan is messy and I don't know how the bearing surface would like being sprayed with this stuff.
5. Apply the anaerobic sealant to the top and sides of the cap opposite the groove for the side seals. You only want a VERY thin smear of the stuff on the top of the cap, otherwise it will squish out when you tighten the cap and go places you don't want it to, like the bearing.
6. Apply a light coat of anaerobic to all surfaces of the side seals and place into cap. Place the seals 1/8" or so ABOVE the machined surface of the cap. They'll be driven flush when you put the cap in, and better to have them start high and end flush than to start flush and get pushed down when you install the main and you'll be unable to push them up completely, so you'll have to pull the cap, clean/prep everything again and do it over. (Again, don't ask how I know this)
7. Wipe a little fresh oil on the bearing, make sure it's clean and free of debris one last time, then install the cap, and snug the bolts. Lightly tap the cap with a deadblow mallet to ensure it's fully seated.
8. Push up firmly on the side seals to make sure they're seated, then lightly paint the pins for side seals with the anaerobic sealant and drive them into place.
9. Torque the cap bolts to spec, working up to the final torque number in several steps.
10. Trim side seals flush with cap/block surface.
That's it... I let it dry for 48 hours, then put the pan back on (torque to 89 in-lb), lower the motor back down, and put everything back together."
Does anyone use any other type of sealant with good success as well?
-GNX7
.
