After many months of work, '83 T-Type running... ok...

thanks guys yeah once i saw that leak i was not going to be taking her for a test drive :( i've looked up the right stuff and it seems there are a couple different kinds i.e. gray, aerosol or power bead... which do you recommend? and the liquid teflon is that the one made by permatex? cheers
The only one I have used is the aerosol. Gray or black is probably the same. I use black. Permatex does make the high temp thread sealer with teflon.
well folks looks like i have some time to do up that rear main, today and if need be into tomorrow... just a couple quick last minute questions. how long do i have to let "the right stuff" cure before i bolt the pan back up and then when cleaning the surface where my new neoprene rear main will slide into what would you recommend for cleaning especially up around the crank? i thought maybe i didn't get all the old rope seal remnants out from last time... thanks
I would let it set up overnight if you can before running the engine, but you can bolt the pan on right away. You can take a piece of wire, maybe electrical, and run it through the block seal groove. Then clean everything with brake parts cleaner and blow it dry if you have air available. Be sure the lips of the seal are to the front, and lube the seal with some oil or white grease, or assembly lube. It's not easy laying on your back and looking up. Hope it works out.
the right stuff is amazing stuff and just did the first test idle with it on thursday and no leaks that i can see. i ran it for about 30-45min with oil psi starting at bout 55 in the middle it steadied at about 40psi :) here is the video of it running... those couple of drops on the concrete under the car are from trans fluid that has very slowly leaked out. i am going to investigate that later. i set it with idle screws out 3 1/2 turns and what looks to be 8 degrees advanced in timing, let me know what you guys think :)

Great job on fixing the rear main seal leak, that shouldn't be a problem again for a very long time. The engine sounds great also very smooth i think but i'm no expert on the carb/turbo engines. That oil pressure is great too.

I did own an 1980 turbo T/A with the 301 v8 carb /turbo engine but i never did anything to it except drive it. It didn't have any power though was only rated at 210 hp.
thanks man, unfortunately when i went to take the car for a test drive the chokes were giving me issue, they are electronic... so i worked the front choke to stay open but then when the turbo spooled the choke for the rear 2 barrels wouldn't open. felt like there wasn't any power and puffed smoke out of the exhaust each time. i was still able to drive at a leisurely pace without any issues just no get up and go. after cursing around a bit and going to fuel up(unfortunately all we have here is 91 octane) i noticed the oil psi would drop to about 20 psi when i was stopped at a light in drive. once or twice it even dropped to 15 psi :( although when i finally got her home there were no oil leaks that i could see and i checked the oil and the oil level was the same as before i left for the test drive. then i checked the plugs and sure enough carbon, so i believe that solidifies my thought of the chokes not opening.

anyone think it could be something beyond the choke that is robbing my power? turbo sounded nice and smooth when spooling. what could be the reason for the oil psi drop to 20/15 psi?
any ideas would be much appreciated.
It's not a "choke" plate, it's the top butterfly for the secondaries. If you look at the passenger side of the carb you'll see the linkage that connects it to the coke though. It's got a block on the side so the secondaries won't open unless the cars at full temp. The vacuum actuator on the same side is also what times the opening of the secondaris. Sounds like you may need to check the linkage or actuators.
yeah i had to zip-tie that little lever in order to be able to open the secondaries cuz even after running the car for 30mins that stop was still blocking the secondaries :( i'm pretty sure i've got the linkage correct i used two different rochester manuals to double check but i'll try to snap a pic today after work... it's probably bad actuators? is there a way to test? thanks
here are some pics of the linkages... the zip tie is there to keep that lever from impeding the secondaries. i think i have the vacuum lines correct, i went off the schematic... guess if the linkage is correct i'll have to pickup some new vacuum actuators?