help...my crank sensor went away and took out my coilpac and module too all pieces are new with about 3500 miles on them what would cause the crank sensor to go away and take out the coilpac and module too or is this machanic BS'n me and how would i go about checking to see if these parts are good or not thanks...want to race this weekend and need to make sure that this is fixed...
ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!
- Thread starter drive805
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
turbo buicks
ESADAH!!!
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2002
- Messages
- 2,936
the crank sensor is at the front, bottom of the engine and the coil pack is at the back, top of the engine. dont see how it could take out the coil pack from way back there. if your crank sensor goes while driving your car stalls and wont run, leaving you stranded. this could also be a characteristic of a bad coil pack i would think since it would seem like the ignition isnt firing. while this has never happened to me personally, ive heard others talk about their crank sensor problems.
turbojimmy
Supporting Member
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
- Messages
- 5,560
It's mechanic BS. He's too lazy or incompetent to find the real problem, so he's just replacing everything ignition related hoping that will fix it (he missed the cam sensor, but that's probably too complex for him to figure out).
I'd say even after those parts are replaced you still might have a problem. BTDT with a local, reputable mechanic - replaced a lot of fairly new parts. $600 later, the car still didn't run right. He had replaced the cam sensor, EGR, TPS, MAF, and some other stuff. Later on, with the help of another board member, I found out it was just the coil module ($79).
What made him think the crank sensor was bad?
Jim
I'd say even after those parts are replaced you still might have a problem. BTDT with a local, reputable mechanic - replaced a lot of fairly new parts. $600 later, the car still didn't run right. He had replaced the cam sensor, EGR, TPS, MAF, and some other stuff. Later on, with the help of another board member, I found out it was just the coil module ($79).
What made him think the crank sensor was bad?
Jim
turboman38
It costs money to go fast
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2001
- Messages
- 387
The Mechanic is an idiot! Sorry but I really hate mechanics who try to sell and install parts on a car because they don't know what the problem is. The crank sensor will not take out the coil and module. Exactly what is the car car doing?
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 5,013
AutoZone can check your coilpack. Maybe the module too.
REDS HOT AIR
Buick Tweaker
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
- Messages
- 3,433
he's an egg head....
first off before he starts pulling parts if you have a dash with tack crank the car and see if the first light or 2 light up...if you see any lights on the tack while cranking the crank sensor is good.
you can test it with a volt meter just like the cam sensor...probe the middle wire and turn key on and rotate motor by hand.. (socket and ratchet on crank bolt) and if the voltage goes up or down as you turn the motor its fine
do the same thing with cam sensor except it will only drop voltage once every other rotation of the crank.
if both them check out good then pull the plug wires off the coil and crank the motor over and see if the jump a spark.. it should jump spark down to the bolts holding the coil to module.
if it dont have fire on any of the terminals then replace module and try again.
first off before he starts pulling parts if you have a dash with tack crank the car and see if the first light or 2 light up...if you see any lights on the tack while cranking the crank sensor is good.
you can test it with a volt meter just like the cam sensor...probe the middle wire and turn key on and rotate motor by hand.. (socket and ratchet on crank bolt) and if the voltage goes up or down as you turn the motor its fine
do the same thing with cam sensor except it will only drop voltage once every other rotation of the crank.
if both them check out good then pull the plug wires off the coil and crank the motor over and see if the jump a spark.. it should jump spark down to the bolts holding the coil to module.
if it dont have fire on any of the terminals then replace module and try again.
more info
was just driving to work and the car just quit.... then would crank but got no injector pulse i thought it was the relay or fuse checked the fuse and relay and both are good didn't have time to check the other parts so sent it to the mechanic... he checked for spark none.... tested the coil nothing....checked the crank sensor it had come apart the ring on the balancer had dug a groove and broke the sensor in half almost ...replaced the sensor still no spark..... tested another coil and module they worked so its being installed on car........how would a crank sensor just come apart like that??? he the mechanic suggested that i epoxy the sensor to the bracket so this doesn't happen again is it jsut a coincidence that the coil and module went with the crank sensor????
was just driving to work and the car just quit.... then would crank but got no injector pulse i thought it was the relay or fuse checked the fuse and relay and both are good didn't have time to check the other parts so sent it to the mechanic... he checked for spark none.... tested the coil nothing....checked the crank sensor it had come apart the ring on the balancer had dug a groove and broke the sensor in half almost ...replaced the sensor still no spark..... tested another coil and module they worked so its being installed on car........how would a crank sensor just come apart like that??? he the mechanic suggested that i epoxy the sensor to the bracket so this doesn't happen again is it jsut a coincidence that the coil and module went with the crank sensor????
Richard Inglett
Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2002
- Messages
- 83
Coincidence
drive805,
Anything is possible but keep your old coil pack and ignition module. Would guess that your MAF sensor is faulty. Sometimes tapping the sensor while it is running will give you an indication that it is bad because the RPM will change. Otherwise, it either works or it doesn't work. If your car quits again, unplug the sensor. Car will run in limp mode and let you get home.
Please don't epoxy your sensor. Sounds like your sensor failed because it had an improper clearance. Although, crank sensor design is adjustable, it stays in place once tightened.
Good luck,
Richard
drive805,
Anything is possible but keep your old coil pack and ignition module. Would guess that your MAF sensor is faulty. Sometimes tapping the sensor while it is running will give you an indication that it is bad because the RPM will change. Otherwise, it either works or it doesn't work. If your car quits again, unplug the sensor. Car will run in limp mode and let you get home.
Please don't epoxy your sensor. Sounds like your sensor failed because it had an improper clearance. Although, crank sensor design is adjustable, it stays in place once tightened.
Good luck,
Richard
The Radius Kid
Active Member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2002
- Messages
- 2,596
Sounds like your mechanic didn't check the clearance between the sensor and ring.That can take out the module[I've seen it,don't ask me how though].I think he owes you a new sensor and module at the least.
just more stuff
i talked to the mechanic at 9pm...he said that he will talk care of the cranksensor but i have to pay for the new module i told him that was cool he isn't going to epoxy the sensor but suggested that i do it so it doesn't come apart again because he said that he will not warrenty another i think that the other sensor was faulty that is why it came apart but i will see it tomorrow i told him that i wanted to get the old parts too because i want to have them checked by another source will let you all know how it runs with the new stuff until then later Mike
i talked to the mechanic at 9pm...he said that he will talk care of the cranksensor but i have to pay for the new module i told him that was cool he isn't going to epoxy the sensor but suggested that i do it so it doesn't come apart again because he said that he will not warrenty another i think that the other sensor was faulty that is why it came apart but i will see it tomorrow i told him that i wanted to get the old parts too because i want to have them checked by another source will let you all know how it runs with the new stuff until then later Mike
turbojimmy
Supporting Member
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
- Messages
- 5,560
Re: just more stuff
The crank sensor will not simply fall apart. How many miles did you put on the original? I had 92k on mine. Never came apart. The only way for that to happen, like someone mentioned, is if it's installed improperly. He should "warranty" every sensor until he figures out how to install them properly.
Again, the crank sensor would not have taken all those other parts with it. The chances of all those things failing at once are a bazillion to one. Buy a lottery ticket.
Jim
The crank sensor will not simply fall apart. How many miles did you put on the original? I had 92k on mine. Never came apart. The only way for that to happen, like someone mentioned, is if it's installed improperly. He should "warranty" every sensor until he figures out how to install them properly.
Again, the crank sensor would not have taken all those other parts with it. The chances of all those things failing at once are a bazillion to one. Buy a lottery ticket.
Jim
The Radius Kid
Active Member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2002
- Messages
- 2,596
Re: Re: just more stuff
I agree with Jimmy.I've got 200,000+ miles on mine and no failures yet[knock on wood].
However,maybe when the sensor rubbed and came apart,the internal wiring shorted to ground through the magnet and took out the module[shorted to the reluctor ring].
I saw this happen to a guy from Bristol area over a year ago when I was down there.
He had bent the ring,banged the sensor,straightened the ring and installed a new sensor.
Car would not idle.Hmm.
We installed a new coil pack and module.Voila,car ran fine.
Go figure.
I agree with Jimmy.I've got 200,000+ miles on mine and no failures yet[knock on wood].
However,maybe when the sensor rubbed and came apart,the internal wiring shorted to ground through the magnet and took out the module[shorted to the reluctor ring].
I saw this happen to a guy from Bristol area over a year ago when I was down there.
He had bent the ring,banged the sensor,straightened the ring and installed a new sensor.
Car would not idle.Hmm.
We installed a new coil pack and module.Voila,car ran fine.
Go figure.
Drewster
Wish I Had A Clone. AKA Andrew Youlio
- Joined
- May 31, 2001
- Messages
- 787
i think your car is haunted!
take it to a chuch (not a mechanic) and have it exorcised!
a
take it to a chuch (not a mechanic) and have it exorcised!
a
