Alkycontrol Pump Test

[TT/Ameasap]

I read a few posts about testing the unit by turning the gain knob to 8 and holding the test button until I see the green light come one. I tried this and only seen the red light. I held it for a good 5 seconds. Car stumbles and bucks. Any other tests I should run or am I doing something wrong?

 

[Squid4life]

I read a few posts about testing the unit by turning the gain knob to 8 and holding the test button until I see the green light come one. I tried this and only seen the red light. I held it for a good 5 seconds. Car stumbles and bucks. Any other tests I should run or am I doing something wrong?

If you hold the test button and the car starts bucking and trying to stall, its pumping alky...

 

[TT/Ameasap]

If you hold the test button and the car starts bucking and trying to stall, its pumping alky...

Ya, but what about WOT? Shouldnt that light turn green. This is an old unit and I want to make sure everything is working properly before I go WOT.

I have an alky chip from EM, so I think I will add fuel in the chip and take it back out as I see the alky working. Seems logical.

EDIT: I forgot how to add fuel at WOT. No instructions. I have version 5.3 chip.

 

[Razor]

Bo

How old is that pump?

 

[TT/Ameasap]

04-05

 

[Razor]

04-05

Humm.. ya thinks it may be time for a new pump

Or a new pump after you hurt the motor goofing around with an 8 year old pump?

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Ya I know. I talked to JD about the kit. Needs upgraded. I'll give you a shout.

 

[blackgn1]

My light doesn't go green when I hit the test button. Does when I make a pass. Dual nozzel. Pump is little over a year old. Should it go green hitting the test button?

 

[Tom87GN]

I've got the very 1st edition SMC alky kit on my car. The pump has died 3 times now over 7-8 years, but it's because I always forget about it when winter comes and the alky/water eat it and lock it up. I always have to test it or change it before I take it out when Spring comes every year.

About that green light......yeah it should come on when you hit the test button. That means its working. But you really won't know for sure, because a locked up pump will still receive the signal and turn the light on, but not pump anything. What you need to do is steal your wife, or a kid, or a neighbors kid and put their rump in the drivers seat while you hold a hose in a bucket that is connected to your kit and watch it pump with your own eyes. Have them work the speed dial on the controller and make sure it slows down as it gets closer to zero and speeds up all the way to 10.

That's all I do every Spring and I never have any problems with mine.

When I have to replace the pump, it's an Airtex unit from older Chryslers that can be picked up from Rock Auto or Advance Auto Parts stores anywhere.

 

[pacecarta]

with those smc you shouldnt use any water , just denatured alky and klotz lube

the water rusts the plain steel parts insde the pump

 

[pacecarta]

and the early razor kits dont have the dual color led
you could hold button all day and it wont change because its only a red LED

the dual color changing led didnt come to the kits until 2006

 

[Razor]

And.. the SMC kit he has had an LED that just went on when pump was seeing voltage. So a locked up pump would show just that. I added the Bi-colored in Dec05/Jan 06 to give feedback that liquid pressure was in the line.

 

[Razor]

My light doesn't go green when I hit the test button. Does when I make a pass. Dual nozzel. Pump is little over a year old. Should it go green hitting the test button?

Has to do with orfice. Twin nozzle kit wont show green under TEST as it only applies a few volts to the pump and the pump has to overcome orfice size to develop 50 psi pressure.

Example.. take hose of nozzle.. never go green. Or put system back to a single nozzle.. then it will go green with a small voltage applied. Just watch the AFR drop when you hit TEST.. and watch it go green when you get into boost. If your really concerened about it, add a transducer to monitor pressure.