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Almost dies when hitting bumps.

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jurassic five 7

Active Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
1,383
Well I have another problem with my car.

When ever I go over a bump in the road, the car will set off the SES light and the RPMs drop and the car almost dies, and has died before.

I'm thinking a loose ground somewhere, but can't find out where it would be.

It's VERY fursterating since it will be over small bumps and then sometimes the bigger bumps that move the car more won't make it die, but the small ones will. This started happening after the cruise night I went to with some other Buick guys.


I swapped out my coil pack with a differnet one and got a new braided ground wire from the firewall to the side of the doghouse under the coil pack plate.


Has this happened to anyone before? If so, what was it?

Thanks,

Adam
 
Sounds like you need a crank sensor, Try taping the front of the motor near the sensor & see if it stalls.
 
Could be a tempoary short to ground at one of the ecm hot wires. Check down near the starter to see if you have shorts. As for the crank sensor, i wouldnt think it would cause a problem like that unless its loose and contacting the interrupter ring on the balancer intermittently.
 
check the grounds that bolt onto the back of the pass side head they are a PITA to get to but check those that is where all the grounds are for the ecm/engine.


do you have a trans + that does spark timing also. if so make sure that the white wire for the EST has a good connection. Also check the connector @ the EST box. it's located by the map sensor on the pass side inner fender well.

HTH
 
Thanks.

But I swapped the coil pack and ignition module and the ground from the firewall to the DR side of the dog house, possibly thinking it would be it.

Its worse then it ever has been! I'M ****ING PISSED OFF!!! The car is NOT fun to drive at all! Usaully in the mornings it wont be a problem, but it was WORSE!!! What really sucks is ALL the roads to school have bumps every 5 feets, they covered in lines in the roads and now its like going over the bumps on the side of the highways all day!!

The car died 3 times on my way home from school.

I CAN NOT stand driving it anymore!

Im scared to drive it cause I fear i'm gonna be stranded cause it will not restart someday.


I NEED HELP BAD!

Also, how do I get the grounds at the passenger side head? I can't see ****!

-Adam
 
You have to lean over there and look down behind the passenger head. They are not easy to get to, but I assure you they are there. Follow the wires out of the loom (which you may have to move out of the way) and there should be about 2-3 wires that are bolted to the head.

Really doesn't sound like a coilpack/ign. module problem.

Also trace the negative battery wire from the terminal down and see if any connection is loose.
 
Can anyone show a pic cause I'm still confused. It's hot as **** out and I don't wanna be out there under a hot hood all day looking around for it since I have no idea where they are.

Thank you,

Adam
 
MAF maybe? Instead of using a screwdriver for the "tap" test you are using the road!
 
SloGN said:
check the grounds that bolt onto the back of the pass side head they are a PITA to get to but check those that is where all the grounds are for the ecm/engine.


do you have a trans + that does spark timing also. if so make sure that the white wire for the EST has a good connection. Also check the connector @ the EST box. it's located by the map sensor on the pass side inner fender well.

HTH


check the grounds that come out of the wiring harness and bolt to the back of the pass side head. not the braided strap from the firewall.
 
heres my guess(s)

do all below with car idleing.....




1) like already said,check orange power cable (computer main batt+)at battery and connector going towards firewall and wiggle to see if any change in the engine.

2)our cars (especailly t-top cars)leak water onto the computer,check by tapping computer while running(do tapping with something metalic,like screwdriver tip,etc)

3)linked to above,check plugs to computer for green/white corrosion(signs of water intrusion)if so, clean with electronic cleaner spray,and add dielectric grease,then fix water leak in car body.

let us know what you find/dont find
 
also

if non above helped;
since this is directly related to vibration;leave car idleing and start tapping relays,maf,gas tank,fuse panel etc. wiggle harness every where,you never know where the problem really is,last post are my first thoughts.

remember to tap with something metal,screwdriver,wrench,etc.tapping with a rubber mallet,plastic will not get same results.....
 
I would try to take a pic but its rainin, imo its easier to get to from bottom, its location pass side header firewall side feel with hand along back side of header you'll feel em i think 13mm wrench is size also check the ground strap at intercooler bracket that negatve is attached to engine this is also a likely candidate of your problem check 1st its easier.
 
garyk1970 said:
do all below with car idleing.....




2)our cars (especailly t-top cars)leak water onto the computer,check by tapping computer while running(do tapping with something metalic,like screwdriver tip,etc)

3)linked to above,check plugs to computer for green/white corrosion(signs of water intrusion)if so, clean with electronic cleaner spray,and add dielectric grease,then fix water leak in car body.

let us know what you find/dont find


like he said, even check the connections at the 'puter, and in case you don't know where it is, its behind the pass. side kick panel. :biggrin:
 
Well update.

The car acts like the computer isnt even plugged in. (which it is) I followed the orange wire back to about the AC unit where it goes into the plastic holder/tube that holds all the other wires, i did it just to follow it and now when I go to start the car. IT WILL NOT start.

It acts like the computer is unplugged. So now until I can get the car started again, I gotta find where I messed the wire up for the computer!

Oh and yes I know where the computer is, I've known where it was before I even got a TR.

I'll feel around and check some things but yet it sucks cause I can't get the car started now.

-Adam
 
if you have a test light ,start at battery and check voltage on orange wire about every couple of inches all the way to ac box and see if theres a break in the wire inside the insulation(plasic sheild on wire)or maybe at the firewall gromet where wires pass through....
 
Well alright, I followed a few wires and tried to find the grounds on the back of the head and couldnt find em.

I got the car started and drove around the block and to the usual spots the car will sputter at. It didnt do it, I then proceeded to go to the for sure spot where the ultimate test would be, and on my way there I hit a few bumps and whata know, it sputtered!!

I get to the 'test spot' and it sputtered BAD! The car died, I started it, put it in drive, sputtered right away. Then I start it again, and idles like ****. Then I let it idle for a bit and it dies. I try again and the car wont start, like I've said before the car is acting like the orange wire isnt connected, but it is. So I know it must be that damn wire.

So I have it on the shoulder of a moderate busy street at 8:30 pm tonight and the car wont start or even let the SM go into 'Wait Mode' you know looks like --- --- on the screen.

So I called AAA cause I knew i wouldnt get it started and was getting dark. So the tow truck gets there bout 2 hours or so later (really didnt seem like it) and then I try to start it and then goes into Wait Mode and everything seems fine. I start it up, let it idle and deside to use the tow truck since he was there and didnt wanna risk it sputtering. So I got the TR towed tonight which I was 1 mile from the house, but atleast I got to a new house devlopment so I was out of the busy road and didnt have to worry bout cars hitting me.


So that's my progress on the short/ground problem. I will get a volt tester like mentioned and check it out.

Thank you everyone for the help so far,

-Adam Kary
 
Adam,when the car wont start/run,actually be happy(when its not in the road)becuase this is the time when you will be able to find the short.really hard to find a problem when car is acting ok.do all tests above and remember to also test componets too ie;maf,fuel pump relay,etc,etc


check orange+ and black- wires at ecm and the reading across the two should be same voltage that the battery has.
 
Well everyone finally having the car on and I went to the orange wire and touched it and it's the culprit. It seems to be right where it plugs into one an other.

Would I just another kind wire with same voltage and everything then sodder it in place of the old one and get a dif style of plug? Like lets say instead of the plug Use a fuse like how it is on the fuel pump or high fan wires? Or could I just use a differnet style of plug in?

I'm going to call this electrical guy down the street soon and see if he can help a brotha out ;)

I should have checked this before, gosh how easy it can be sometimes ya know!

-Adam
 
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