also, head bolt recommendations
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Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
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ARP's are superior, but stock bolts are fine for stock power levels.
You may be surprised to find that ARP's may be cheaper.
Um...NOT! ARP does have them as well as PAW.
dr_frankenstein
Mad Scientist
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Have you used the ones from milodon Charlie? the ones they list in PAW? I have been looking at the set but I dunnnno.....
LOL
A.j.
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
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Guys , don't take this the wrong way, but take a step back and help Cory achieve his goal, not yours. 
Over time, we all develop preconceived ideas of "what works, and what should".
I know, at times I am guilty of this as well.
I try real hard to never try to loose sight of the person's goal.
We really should go back to the stated goal; "Stock performance levels"
Yes, ARP's are stronger, and studs are better ......... for high performance!
He is building a stock car, at stock performance levels.
My advice;
If you have the 20 bolt block, get the ARP bolts.
If you have a 14 bolt block;
If the stock bolts are cheaper, get the stock bolts.
If the ARP bolts are Cheaper, get the ARP's.
Stay away from studs, if you still have the AC in your car, and you are changing the HG's in the car. ................ This advice has NOTHING to do with "being able to get the studs in/out with the hex in the studs".
I am fully aware of the benefits, capabilities and design features of the studs.
Over time, we all develop preconceived ideas of "what works, and what should".
I know, at times I am guilty of this as well.
I try real hard to never try to loose sight of the person's goal.
We really should go back to the stated goal; "Stock performance levels"
Yes, ARP's are stronger, and studs are better ......... for high performance!
He is building a stock car, at stock performance levels.
My advice;
If you have the 20 bolt block, get the ARP bolts.
If you have a 14 bolt block;
If the stock bolts are cheaper, get the stock bolts.
If the ARP bolts are Cheaper, get the ARP's.
Stay away from studs, if you still have the AC in your car, and you are changing the HG's in the car. ................ This advice has NOTHING to do with "being able to get the studs in/out with the hex in the studs".
I am fully aware of the benefits, capabilities and design features of the studs.
dr_frankenstein
Mad Scientist
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2008
- Messages
- 5,126
Guys , don't take this the wrong way, but take a step back and help Cory achieve his goal, not yours.
Over time, we all develop preconceived ideas of "what works, and what should".
I know, at times I am guilty of this as well.
I try real hard to never try to loose sight of the person's goal.
We really should go back to the stated goal; "Stock performance levels"
Yes, ARP's are stronger, and studs are better ......... for high performance!
He is building a stock car, at stock performance levels.
My advice;
If you have the 20 bolt block, get the ARP bolts.
If you have a 14 bolt block;
If the stock bolts are cheaper, get the stock bolts.
If the ARP bolts are Cheaper, get the ARP's.
Stay away from studs, if you still have the AC in your car, and you are changing the HG's in the car. ................ This advice has NOTHING to do with "being able to get the studs in/out with the hex in the studs".
I am fully aware of the benefits, capabilities and design features of the studs.
your totally right Jerry! and I understand what your saying and the TTY bolts would be perfectly fine at even a decently healthy motor - the problem is, with the headgasket issues that these engines tend to have, and if somebody is new to the whole tuning deal with these cars, expect gaskets to be changed a good 3 or 4 times more. Buy the ARPs once, or buy TTYs 4 times........... which is going to be cheeper in the long run? I reckon the ARP's.
A.j.
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
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A.J,
I agree with you .......... "If" he has a 20 bolt block", which has not been determined.
The 14 block head bolts are not TTY, so they can be re-used.
At Stock performance levels, these motors can take a LOT of abuse.
Not that that is a good thing, but Corey has been around for a while, so I am sure he knows what to look for.
There are motors with 200K miles out there that run at stock performance levels, on stock hardware, and have never been opened.
If $ is not object, ARP BOLTS, period.
As stated in this thread before; I bet that the ARP's are cheaper. :biggrin:
dr_frankenstein
Mad Scientist
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2008
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A.J,
I agree with you .......... "If" he has a 20 bolt block", which has not been determined.
The 14 block head bolts are not TTY, so they can be re-used.
At Stock performance levels, these motors can take a LOT of abuse.
Not that that is a good thing, but Corey has been around for a while, so I am sure he knows what to look for.
There are motors with 200K miles out there that run at stock performance levels, on stock hardware, and have never been opened.
If $ is not object, ARP BOLTS, period.
As stated in this thread before; I bet that the ARP's are cheaper. :biggrin:
up you got me, totally correct. I forgot 14 bolts are not tty.......... boy do I feel dumb, ive always tossed them.
foot in mouth + A.j. + STFU = dumbass.
:tongue: A.j.
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
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I've used the ones from PAW and had no problem with them myself but I prefer having that little hex oon the top to instal them. As far as A/C, I've used studs and A/C with little problem before but you do have to get a little creative.:biggrin:
