Amp power wire routing
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I've always run through the firewall. Be sure to use a grommet to run the wire through and fuse on both ends to prevent any chance of fire from shorting. I run the wire along the lower edge of the footwells of the floor pan. Wire tie it do to prevent movement.
John
John
On the floorpan, under the carpet between the seat studs and door sill. Just don't let the seat bracket pinch the wire, it will create a short. You will have to remove the sill plates, kick panels, rear door opening trim and lower rear seat to get access to the floor pan. Nothing hard, only takes a phillips head screw driver to remove and put back. I never go through the passenger side. If you start pulling large amounts of current (50 + amps) through your power wire, the inductance created can mess with the ECM if the wire runs close to it. HTH
John
John
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I'm with 6APPEAL on this one...
Especially since I have my ECM mounted up near the dash (because of the Q-Forms kickpanels) I ran mine through the drivers side, away from the ECM and down that side of the car. Since I planned on putting my amps on a mounting board on the drivers side of the trunk anyway, this made sense to do.
Especially since I have my ECM mounted up near the dash (because of the Q-Forms kickpanels) I ran mine through the drivers side, away from the ECM and down that side of the car. Since I planned on putting my amps on a mounting board on the drivers side of the trunk anyway, this made sense to do.
On the passenger side in my car there was a rubber gromet in the fire wall above the ECM. In the gromet there was a yellow plastic plug
(to fill a hole, not an electrical connection) thet seemed to serve no purpose that I could see. I pulles the plug and was able to run 1/0 power wire through the gromet without making any extra holes. I ran it in the groove in the door jamb under the sill plate and back into the trunk. You would never know it's there. I was concerned about running it that close to the ECM but it hasn't caused any problems at all.
(to fill a hole, not an electrical connection) thet seemed to serve no purpose that I could see. I pulles the plug and was able to run 1/0 power wire through the gromet without making any extra holes. I ran it in the groove in the door jamb under the sill plate and back into the trunk. You would never know it's there. I was concerned about running it that close to the ECM but it hasn't caused any problems at all.
On my previous GN I ran the power wire (8 ga.) from the battery under the AC fan box and along the inside of the pass. frame rail to the trunk. I ran it into the trunk on the pass. side above the axle. Worked like a charm. It was much easier to find a place to drill the hole and it was a more direct route which used less wire.
I sold that car and I'm in the process of installing a small amp on my "new" t-top GN. This time I decided to go through the firewall, but I'm already wishing I had done it the same way I described above. There's an inconspicuous spot to drill through the firewall between the main wiring bulkhead and the master cylinder mounting plate. It's difficult to get to and you have to place the hole carefully, but the hole is hard to find unless you're looking for it and it's easy to completely hide the power wire over to that spot.
I've got the power lead through the firewall and routed where I want it under the hood, but that's where I ran out of time and had to stop. I'll run the wire into the driver's kick-panel and under the driver's sill plate, then under the rear seat into the trunk. The amp will be mounted on the "package shelf" in the trunk. This method is takes more time and I will have to add additional wire to make it all the way back to the trunk. When it's done it should be a tidy installation though.
I sold that car and I'm in the process of installing a small amp on my "new" t-top GN. This time I decided to go through the firewall, but I'm already wishing I had done it the same way I described above. There's an inconspicuous spot to drill through the firewall between the main wiring bulkhead and the master cylinder mounting plate. It's difficult to get to and you have to place the hole carefully, but the hole is hard to find unless you're looking for it and it's easy to completely hide the power wire over to that spot.
I've got the power lead through the firewall and routed where I want it under the hood, but that's where I ran out of time and had to stop. I'll run the wire into the driver's kick-panel and under the driver's sill plate, then under the rear seat into the trunk. The amp will be mounted on the "package shelf" in the trunk. This method is takes more time and I will have to add additional wire to make it all the way back to the trunk. When it's done it should be a tidy installation though.
