any electrical gurus out there?

Madmustard

New Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2002
Still have a draw on 84 gn .replaced the fuel pump (walbro) and problems started.unplugged the pump and still has a draw so that should have elimated it .It is a draw when key off and not running that kills the battery.It also wiped the alternator out too. Replaced both with new.Took the negative batt terminal off and jumped with a test light and test light comes on..

Where do I start?Scanmaster says no codes.Car runs low rpm at idle.Noticeable miss when driving.Under wot bucks and pops.I think there all related but didnt start since i put the pump in.Wish i could see fuel pressure when driving.Also cant adjust regulator under 46#s pressure but will adjust higher... Man this sucks!!!!!
 
Unplug fuses one at a time until there is no longer a current draw, then you know where to look for the draw.
Do you have a power antenna? could be that.
 
THANKS TO "THEBIGGUY FOR THE ADVICE"!!!pulled fuses and found the draw.from bottom 3 rows up and from left side of fuse block inside car to right 3 rover.This must be an interior light fuse (20)or at least the dome light ...or door switch to turn on /off dome lights.I should be able to get it from here-THANKS!!!:cool:
 
You're welcome, glad we could help. When you narrow it down more, post your find so we all can learn from your labor.
 
here lies most of the problem.The car is an 84 with an 86/87 intercooled motor and wiring harnesses.the under hood light ,trunk light and glove box dont exist anymore:confused:

So they installed the digital dash(actually works) but the wiring is shady and I'm discovering I need to go through more than I thought .Anyone know or have knowledge of what this fuse is actually for?Nothing written on the fuse block anymore.I think this thing was donked and rigged before so I'm trying to get it looking like a lady and at least in the 12's before winter...
 
Your best bet now is to leave the fuse out and see what doesn't work.

The search feature should dig up what's connected to that fuse exactly on a 1987 car.

Hotair section should have the info. on the 1984 model with a search.

If all those things you mentioned are gone from the car you may not need the fuse.

I'd dig up an ammeter good to 20A on the scale or at least 10A and start on the highest scale and work your way down hooked up the same way you have the test light setup hooked up and put the fuse back in and check the exact draw.

If it pegs the meter backwards reverse the leads, if a digital meter it will read negative amps. but that's no biggy it will still be an accurate reading.

If it reads a dead short as in high amperage it might be in those circuits previously mentioned that are gone from the car, but the wiring in some cases remains and can be shorted to ground.

Interior lights and door switches that activate them with a ground are part of the circuit I believe as well.

I'd worry about fixing ALL the wiring this year, maybe race it next year....
 
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