Any suggestions? Brake bleeding powermaster

[Cbring]

I have redone my brakes with new calipers, cylinders, stainless lines, new powermaster complete and I have tried to power bleed and manually bleed the system and can't get it to work. When it's power bled it will not suck solid fluid except from the front driver wheel. I read that if your brakes improve from bleeding that caliper then your proportioning valve is ingesting air. Would it be true in my situation? Mine is rusted but there are no leaks on system at all.

 

[NEVER ENOUGH]

Just some questions.
Is your prop valve cast or brass?
Are you bleeding the rear furthest from the master first, then the drivers side rear, the pass front, then the drivers front?
Did you bench bleed the master before installing it?
Are you certain all of your fittings are tight?

 

[Cbring]

Yes the valve is cast. That's another reason y I thought it could be bad. And the bleeding sequence was rr, lr,rf,lf. Triple checked the fittings and we bench bled the master by installing it on car and running the bleed kit out of the ports into the resorvoir and tapped on master cylinder to help remove air while pumping. Also gravity bled it first and gravity bled the pump to make sure it was primed.

 

[Cbring]

Picture is only to show how we did it its not actual picture Like this:

 

[1quick6]

Are you using a vacuum pump to bleed them? That doesn't work very well unless you teflon tape the bleeders. You might think you are sucking air through the system when in fact you are just sucking air that gets by the threads on the bleeder. Also, did you put a clamp on the proportioning valve to keep the valve in place while bleeding? I used those long trigger slide clamps or whatever you want to call them.

 

[Cbring]

Yes we clamped the valve. We are using a vacuum pump but the problem is that is is not sucking solid fluid in except on the front driver side. All others Look like blowing spit through a straw. We could Teflon the other bleeders.

 

[Kellysgn]

have you had any luck , I am struggling , just did hydro boost conversion

 

[TexasT]

I have always done the bleeding the old fashioned way. Put a 2x4 under the pedal and put one of my kids in the seat with instructions. When I say brake, you push the pedal down. I open the bleeder screw with a tube on it and a clear receptacle to catch fluid. They push the pedal down. I close the bleeder and tell them release, they let the pedal up and tell be released when it comes back up. Repeat until there aren't bubbles. Then move to the next wheel. Start furthest away as above. Check the mc to keep it topped off with fluid. This has always worked for me.