Any tips or pointers on installing a new fuel pump?

[turboterror]

It looks pretty straight forward but wanting to know if there are any tips on installing a walbro 255 pump in a 86 gn?
I have the strap bolts marinating in w40 and hope to tackle this in the morning before I go to work. The car ran but would die or wouldnt idle unless I feathered the gas and now it wont start, power going to fuel pump but it is not priming or energizing when I turn the key to run.

Ive been working on this thing since November and hoping to be able to drive it soon(my birthday is saturday what a present that might be). I just did a vacuum brake conversion so maybe Ill be able to stop.Hopefully with the new pump it will run and run right.

Im not very well versed with tb and I searched around in a few forums but couldnt find the answer to my questions.Any insight would be greatly appreciated guys!

 

["Turbo-T"]

Have a jack ready under the tank touching the bottom. That way as you're undoing the bolts the tank doesn't come crashing down. As soon as the straps are loosened up, slowly let the jack down enough to unhook the 3 rubber hoses at the top of the tank and to verify the filler neck clears. Once all this is done slowly let the jack with the tank on it down the rest of the way and put it out. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump pigtail harness behind the rear bumper.

If your car still has the old pump, when you remove the assembly (uses a metal lock ring to hold it in place), there's an oval looking pulsator that connects the pump to the metal tube - throw it away and in it's place run a piece of rubber hose. (supplied in the fuel pump kit if you bought it from Kirbans, Turbo Tweak, etc.) I also recommend if you can, upgrade the tiny 16 gauge wiring inside from the pump bracket bulkhead connector to the pump motor to the next biggest up (14 gauge) - Racetronix sells all the stuff to do this. Make sure you have a hot wire too to the fuel pump - if not now is the time to do it. You want as much power going to the fuel pump as possible as the stock wiring is not really adequate.

 

[mearly65]

It's a straight forward job but as far as tips go, try and get as much gas out of the tank as possible before you drop it down. A gallon of gas weighs what 8 pounds or so? So if you have a few gallons left in there and the tank is teetering on a jack it could start sloshing around and maybe fall off. Also, before you undo the metal lock ring that holds the old pump in place, use compressed air(if you have access to it) to blow all the dirt away from around the crevices on the top of the tank. If not, when you go to lift the old pump out, some of that crud can fall into your tank. Now's a good time to replace the three short pieces of rubber fuel line too.

 

[just plain john]

When you remove the pulsator and replace it with rubber hose, BE CERTAIN that the hose is rated for submersion in fuel. Regular hose, even EFI hose, isn't rated for that.

 

[turboterror]

When you remove the pulsator and replace it with rubber hose, BE CERTAIN that the hose is rated for submersion in fuel. Regular hose, even EFI hose, isn't rated for that.

Hey thanks to all of you for the intell, Thats exactly what I needed to know. I was wondering what that short piece of hose was for too. If you guys have plans to come to bowling green this year I owe you all a beer. I have attended years ago but mine was stolen. You can bet I will have a watchful eye on it this time and possibly lojacked also.

 

[turboterror]

Ok I just finished installing the pump, I pulled the oval thing off and replaced it with a short length of hose. I turned the key and hear the pump running but its not cycling off,normally on fuel injection you will hear it come on for a couple of seconds. It still wont start so I would guess that there is not enough fuel in the tank to start the car let alone pressurize the fuel system. I hope Im right because Im going to go get some more gas and put in it.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge you can attach to the fuel injection rail fitting near the fuel pressure regulator, to see if the rail is getting the correct fuel pressure?

 

[turboterror]

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge you can attach to the fuel injection rail fitting near the fuel pressure regulator, to see if the rail is getting the correct fuel pressure?

No but Im going to go and get one, unfortunately I dont think I can do it in time before work and this is going to bug me all day. I can hear hissing under the hood so I know something getting up there. I know its getting spark bc I took a little fuel and poured into the throttle body. It fired up instantly. I dont think I couldve put the pump in wrong, there really wasnt but one way to do it. I would imagine if all is well I could expect to see around 35 psi maybe more?

The pump I removed wasnt doing anything at all. The funny thing is that when I turn the key to run the fuel pump comes on and stays on until I turn the key off. I put another 5 gallons of gas in the tank so I know for certain now that It has fuel.

 

[turboterror]

Verified with gauge at the rail, dead nuts on 40 psi. Im still unsure why the fuel pump wont cycle off after you turn the key to run? Even so with spark and 40 psi of fuel pressure the car should start and run? Any other thoughts??

 

[turboterror]

So I am stumped. I sprayed a little ether into the throttle body and the car fired up and ran for a sec so its acting like its not getting fuel but Im getting 40 psi at the rail. What am I missing here? The car seems to be getting fuel and spark. As I mentioned before I dont think there was really a wrong way to install the fuel pump, it even came with a harness that just plugged into the factory harness. I removed the pulsator and replaced that with a section of hose, Im not sure what else I couldve done differently.

 

["Turbo-T"]

If you have 40 psi at the rail and it only runs when ether is sprayed down it's throat, that has me thinking your injectors are not getting a signal from the ECM to open up to allow the fuel to enter the engine.

I'd check the ECM to ensure it's getting power at the orange wire, as well as the fuse on the fuse box for the ECM is not blown. Also check the cam sensor.

 

[turboterror]

If you have 40 psi at the rail and it only runs when ether is sprayed down it's throat, that has me thinking your injectors are not getting a signal from the ECM to open up to allow the fuel to enter the engine.

I'd check the ECM to ensure it's getting power at the orange wire, as well as the fuse on the fuse box for the ECM is not blown. Also check the cam sensor.

Yes that certainly seems logical, I checked all the fuses under the dash and they all seem ok. Where might be the easiest place to access that orange wire? Passenger side kick panel? Im very inclined to believe now that it is either the ecm or the crank sensor. Nothing is sending a signal for the fuel pump to turn off when in the on position. It just pumps and pumps. Im heading back out to the garage to do more investigating.

Oh and thank you for your help so far,hopefully I will eventually find out what is wrong. Ive had the car since November and have yet to be able to drive it.

 

[turboterror]

If you have 40 psi at the rail and it only runs when ether is sprayed down it's throat, that has me thinking your injectors are not getting a signal from the ECM to open up to allow the fuel to enter the engine.

I'd check the ECM to ensure it's getting power at the orange wire, as well as the fuse on the fuse box for the ECM is not blown. Also check the cam sensor.

I FOUND IT!!! There was a orange wire just dangling in the engine bay. If I remember correctly it was hooked straight to the positive side of the battery. I put a new battery in it and just forgot about it. Once I hooked it up the pump cycled then quit. The car started right up!! Now to bleed the newly installed vacuum brakes,throw a seat in it and take it for a spin!!!! Thanks to everyone who helped me out, it was all very useful information.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Glad you found it.

 

[turboterror]

Glad you found it.

Whew yeah me too, I would venture to guess that the ecm wire does not need to be ran straight to the battery but rather a key on power source. Guess I have some wiring to do!!

 

["Turbo-T"]

No, the ECM wire (orange wire) is supposed to be connected straight to the battery. Anytime you disconnect it from the battery, it causes the memory in the ECM to be lost.

However as you have found, if it is not connected, it will not allow the engine to start. I'm almost certain the orange wire is supposed to be permanently connected to the main power cable from the factory. Although it sounds as if perhaps your was replaced with a generic Regal power cable at some point.

 

[turboterror]

No, the ECM wire (orange wire) is supposed to be connected straight to the battery. Anytime you disconnect it from the battery, it causes the memory in the ECM to be lost.

However as you have found, if it is not connected, it will not allow the engine to start. I'm almost certain the orange wire is supposed to be permanently connected to the main power cable from the factory. Although it sounds as if perhaps your was replaced with a generic Regal power cable at some point.

Yes the terminals are the auto zone special ones. Yes it most certainly wont start without that wire attached. I will reattach the wire and should be good to go. I was really scratching my head over this one thats for certain. The pump I think did the trick too as far as how it runs, it idles now, I dont have to feather the gas to keep it running and I can give it gs without it trying to die.