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Anybody Cut Heads For More Installed Height?

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Blown&Injected

Active Member
Joined
May 31, 2001
Messages
3,721
A search suggests that there is not too much under the springs seats until one hits water but I only need about .045" to be nice.
 
the 10* reatainers and +.050 locks did not change anything - actually gave me about .005 to .010 LESS. It makes me think that something got mis packaged :confused: But it also looks like others using the 795 and 614's are comming in at about 1.725" too. Just do not understand why the 787 and 648's were not less than the other locks and retainers

If I can get the +.050, I would be at 138 closed and 303 open - It would be perfect.
 
I checked the +050's on mine and they did give about + 0.050. From Comp they are different color than the usual black ones- think mine were a natural gold'ish color.

TurboTR
 
Yep, the one's I got are Gold Iridite or Yellow Dichromate (same thing).

Since I did not have them side-by-side, it is hard to see a great amount of difference, but I do not see how the parts would have even fit properly if the locks and retainers got mixed up.

The heads and valves are clean and I even used some valve grinding compound on the seats to clean and freshen up everthing so I just do not know WTH could have happened to cause the measurements I am getting.
 
Yep, Beehive springs are what I'm trying to use.

I use a dial caliper. I measure by assembling a valve in the head using an easy to work with spring (not a valve spring).
 
I'm not saying a dial caliper is wrong but I would use one of those micrometers made for checking valve height. It takes the place of the spring and you turn it until you bottom out. The mic installs just like a valve spring, then the mic is expanded (turned) until it has fully seated the valve, locks and retainer

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
That tool sounds SWEET!!!!

Using the dial caliper as a depth gauge definitely will introduce deflection error in the readings but it is over such a short distance that it is not a big deal for going down to the hundredths.

At first, I just set the gauge then push it down, as the tip of the caliper rests on the machined spring seat, until the tail of the caliper evens out with the bottom edge of the retainer. At that point I can move the caliper around to see if any deflection has caused me to eyeball it wrong. It always works out and the measurement is repeatable, I have moved the caliper about .010" and then re-measure again, and I will not be able to line up the retainer with the caliper no matter how I hold it, so I am sure it is within about +/- .003.

Even after all that, because it is not the best tool for the job. I put a magnet on the bottom side of the retainer so that I had a firm edge to go from and the magnet squared off the calipers to avoid any deflection. And BTW, The heads and valves are clean, the valves I was checking have even been lapped so everything was sitting tight.
 
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