anybody own a RV
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I hate to say it but Coachmen has the best quaility that I have seen. Worked there 10 years.Not anymore thou. Be careful cause lots of FEMA units were built and sent to the south for Katrina. Bare nessesities and no decals and poor workmanship. Most trailer factories were piece rate and got paid for 40 hours even if you worked 20. Build em fast and run. Low quality.Coachmen was the only hourly plant that I know of. Just look around alot before you buy. A new one may be alot cheaper than an older one. Incentives are there just like the auto industry. Good Luck.
Tom J.
How much are you looking to spend?
I own a 2001 31ft. Coachmen and like it alot. Sure it is not top of the line , but its very nice. Purchased it used and it already had some cool upgrades like headers and exhaust. So far we been to BG and some local trips and enjoyed it very much. Towed the GN without any problems. Since Twister mentioned the Coachmen I can tell you that I did alot of reserach on these units. The Mirada line is very affordable and can be had for much less than many are listing on the net for.
How much are you looking to spend?
I own a 2001 31ft. Coachmen and like it alot. Sure it is not top of the line , but its very nice. Purchased it used and it already had some cool upgrades like headers and exhaust. So far we been to BG and some local trips and enjoyed it very much. Towed the GN without any problems. Since Twister mentioned the Coachmen I can tell you that I did alot of reserach on these units. The Mirada line is very affordable and can be had for much less than many are listing on the net for.
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I have a class C Coachman (my first RV) and really like it. It's a E-350 chassis and works just fine. That motor is awesome for towing. Mine's only a 24'. Remember overhang length if you get a class C. Don't get a 31' class C and expect to pull a heavy trailer. No matter what class, get something with a fairly short overhang (like Louie's). I've looked around for a class A and found one like Louie's (same purple color) but was a 2004 33' with 2 slides for 59K, I think I could get it for 55 but now is really a bad time for buying a camper in the midwest. The snowbirds are shopping for campers to take south believe it or not...
What to look for? First and foremost - how does it smell inside. ALL used campers have SOME odor, it might be a good one or a bad one. Find out and smell it for yourself if possible. Second, check the 12V and generator systems for the camper part. They are seperate from the chassis, make sure they work or move on. I bought my camper with the understanding that the generator worked. It didn't. They paid $700 to fix it though. Presurize the water system and make sure it doesn't leak anywhere. Look at the roof carefully, most are rubber and eventually need replaced, that's big bucks (I was quoted $4000 believe it or not). And check for water leaks inside, mildew smell is a dead giveaway. That causes problems down the road and wrecks trade in value. People are really scared of that. Check tires and brakes. Tires are expensive, you'll want the high ply (can't remember what letter) for towing. Finally, drive it, does it rattle terribly? You can fix some rattles but you'll never get them all out if it does. Class A campers are better than C in that regard.
What to look for? First and foremost - how does it smell inside. ALL used campers have SOME odor, it might be a good one or a bad one. Find out and smell it for yourself if possible. Second, check the 12V and generator systems for the camper part. They are seperate from the chassis, make sure they work or move on. I bought my camper with the understanding that the generator worked. It didn't. They paid $700 to fix it though. Presurize the water system and make sure it doesn't leak anywhere. Look at the roof carefully, most are rubber and eventually need replaced, that's big bucks (I was quoted $4000 believe it or not). And check for water leaks inside, mildew smell is a dead giveaway. That causes problems down the road and wrecks trade in value. People are really scared of that. Check tires and brakes. Tires are expensive, you'll want the high ply (can't remember what letter) for towing. Finally, drive it, does it rattle terribly? You can fix some rattles but you'll never get them all out if it does. Class A campers are better than C in that regard.
dgreen1069
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2004
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- 521
What kind of RV are you looking for? The one constant that is true for all RV's is that slide-out rooms make a huge difference in the interior space of the RV. Our current 31 foot travel trailer has a single large slide, but my next RV will have at least 2 and hopefully 3 slide-outs.
Most RV's use common components for appliances, holding tanks, roof vents, etc. It is important to pay attention to fit and finish because that is where the real differences are. You are also better off looking for an RV that has higher end gear vs. lower end stuff that looks good because of decor. Stuff like 15k BTU A/C's vs. 13.5k BTU's for trailers makes a big difference. I like having a larger water heater. My TT has a 10 gallon heater that runs on elec. or gas. A lot of RV's only carry 6 gallons and others might carry 12 gallons. Give us some direction and we'll steer you the right way. Also check out http://rv.net/forum . This is the best site on the web for RV discussions.
Most RV's use common components for appliances, holding tanks, roof vents, etc. It is important to pay attention to fit and finish because that is where the real differences are. You are also better off looking for an RV that has higher end gear vs. lower end stuff that looks good because of decor. Stuff like 15k BTU A/C's vs. 13.5k BTU's for trailers makes a big difference. I like having a larger water heater. My TT has a 10 gallon heater that runs on elec. or gas. A lot of RV's only carry 6 gallons and others might carry 12 gallons. Give us some direction and we'll steer you the right way. Also check out http://rv.net/forum . This is the best site on the web for RV discussions.
My opinion on slide outs is this. If you are going to live for long extended periods in the RV by all means look for slide outs. Unfortunately they add a considerable amount of money to the total price. No slide out motor homes are easier to find and buy. Most dealers are looking to move non slide out coaches because they just dont sell as well. Slide outs are great but also bring extra weight and noise.
Of course we are talking about older , budget style Rvs. These Rules do not apply to a $165k. RV
We are very happy with our unit. Its a very nice beginers RV. Sure it drives like a Fed EX truck, but after all thats all it is ....a big box truck.
Also on low capacity water heaters. I think ours is a 6 galon unit. But it makes hot water ,scalding hot water within 5 minutes of starting the unit. Most newer water heaters 99 and on work this well.
Of course we are talking about older , budget style Rvs. These Rules do not apply to a $165k. RV
We are very happy with our unit. Its a very nice beginers RV. Sure it drives like a Fed EX truck, but after all thats all it is ....a big box truck.
Also on low capacity water heaters. I think ours is a 6 galon unit. But it makes hot water ,scalding hot water within 5 minutes of starting the unit. Most newer water heaters 99 and on work this well.
You mentioned towing. Hopefully an open trailer. My old RV was a 34' RexAir and worked great with my open trailer. When I bought the enclosed trailer, the Ford angine and E4OD trans weren't able to pull it very well, especially in the mountains. I doubt you will find an RV in your price range that will tow an enclosed trailer very well.
FWIW: My new RV is a Safari Sahara w/ a CAT and Allison 6 speed.
FWIW: My new RV is a Safari Sahara w/ a CAT and Allison 6 speed.
Would you consider a newer one with higher miles or an older one with less miles I guess what I am trying to say is what are the common problems with them sitting for long periods of time that I should be aware of versus high mileage units? What is considered high mileage in a rv? Can you give me a ball park figure on what insurance runs?
Thanks
Thanks
Personally, I would take a newer high mileage unit over an older low mileage unit. Unfortunately, the price is almost always effected more by the year than the mileage.
IMO: You don't want one that's been sitting. The house usually wears out before the chasis does (especially if it's a deisel).
Insurance is REAL cheap. Mine runs around $50/month for full coverage
IMO: You don't want one that's been sitting. The house usually wears out before the chasis does (especially if it's a deisel).
Insurance is REAL cheap. Mine runs around $50/month for full coverage
88ZNX
Let loose the Boost!!
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- Nov 4, 2004
- Messages
- 2,025
Alan and I live in our 32 Travel trailer while we are out chasing storms and working on hail damaged vehicles. We started out with a 27 ft bumper pull, travel trailer without slides. It was cheap and lightweight, but boy it got really small, really quick. With his stuff and my stuff, we got closterphobic! And we found out that we basicly had a weekend summer camper, which means it was not insulated very well. Cold nights, we'd freeze! When we upgraded to our 32ft, we made sure it was a 4 seasons, and an aluminum frame construction. It is heavier due to the slides and fiberglass sides, but the camper is much nicer. Its a "get what you pay for" with campers, and I dont know if I would buy used if you are looking at a travel trailer, because the interest rates are way lower for new ones, than used. Ours was around $30k new, & the payments are around $280 which we split. I think insurance is $150 a year. Make sure you get a Tow Bar / sway control for it and if you happen to get a camper low to the ground, you MUST weld some caster wheels on the rear because you will drag it.
hope this helps!
Jason
hope this helps!
Jason
Yes to the newer ones with higher mileage, you can also find some good deals out there. I got mine for about half what the NADA is on it but I watched eBay for a long time looking for it. I got pretty knowledgeable about them in the interim.
My class C (pictured above with trailer) drives almost exactly the same with or without the trailer on it. It's only an 800# trailer but towing it behind my truck, the biggest issue was wind resistance. The camper has the same wind resistance with or without the trailer. I only lose about 2mpg pulling the trailer too.
It's good to have a "beginner" rv but I can pretty definetly, my next one will be a class A unit, preferably a diesel pusher. Oh, and slides... I'd like them but they do add weight and when you're crusing down the road, they can be a PITA. The one I was looking at? The rear bed area was really cramped when it was slid in.
My class C (pictured above with trailer) drives almost exactly the same with or without the trailer on it. It's only an 800# trailer but towing it behind my truck, the biggest issue was wind resistance. The camper has the same wind resistance with or without the trailer. I only lose about 2mpg pulling the trailer too.
It's good to have a "beginner" rv but I can pretty definetly, my next one will be a class A unit, preferably a diesel pusher. Oh, and slides... I'd like them but they do add weight and when you're crusing down the road, they can be a PITA. The one I was looking at? The rear bed area was really cramped when it was slid in.
Ok so don't worryabout the mileage as much as the age do to diteration, how about slide outs compared to none ,is there a huge loss of room when traveling down the road compared a no slide out unit. What is the average cost of maintaning it and storage? I am just trying to get the big picture, thanks for all the replies
One of the biggest issues with RV units is weight. The bigger, the heavier which equals more gas. Slide outs add weight. Some units with slide outs, depending on the year and model are virtually unusable with the slides retracted. Slide outs are great... on the right model.
Another thing on weight, many older RVs, pre 1998 or so were overloaded and undertired. They were built close to their total weight capacity. As soon as you placed 4 persons, food and clothes, they were quite a bit over weight. Second some of the older RV were equipped with 16.5 wheels and tires. These units suffered lots of blow outs. Cal experienced many of these.. The newer class A units have 19 in wheels and tires.
One thing no one has mentioned is Ford Vs Chevy chassis. Ford chassis will be cheaper than Chevy. Even die hard Chevy guys have gone with Ford Chassis RVs based on price. Most are built on Ford chassis because Ford builds their own RV-comercial chassis. The 2001 and up units are equiped with the V10 310 HP-425 FT lb TQ motor till 05 or 06 when it went up to 365 hp.
Storage and type of storage will vary per area.
Hope were not scaring you off.. :biggrin:
Another thing on weight, many older RVs, pre 1998 or so were overloaded and undertired. They were built close to their total weight capacity. As soon as you placed 4 persons, food and clothes, they were quite a bit over weight. Second some of the older RV were equipped with 16.5 wheels and tires. These units suffered lots of blow outs. Cal experienced many of these.. The newer class A units have 19 in wheels and tires.
One thing no one has mentioned is Ford Vs Chevy chassis. Ford chassis will be cheaper than Chevy. Even die hard Chevy guys have gone with Ford Chassis RVs based on price. Most are built on Ford chassis because Ford builds their own RV-comercial chassis. The 2001 and up units are equiped with the V10 310 HP-425 FT lb TQ motor till 05 or 06 when it went up to 365 hp.
Storage and type of storage will vary per area.
Hope were not scaring you off.. :biggrin:
