Anyone heard of this.. ROUGH engine break in ON PURPOSE???

[TType84]

check this out guys.. have any of you heard of this? is he full of it? it seems like sound logic..

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

basically the guy says.. when you rebuild an engine, immediately after you start it for the first time, once the engine is up to temp (and the oil is up to temp as well) you should do three hard dyno pulls...

What's the Best Way to Break in
a New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.


The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!

An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!

so, what do you guys think about this? maybe this should be in the tech forum.. but i'm not sure.. so mods, feel free to move this.

oh, and before you say anything, yes i realize it says "bike" but he said this applies to ANY engine, not just sportbike engines....

 

[re-evaluating]

Break in

I break mine in the water box. Another point is if you don't break in the rings in at the same rpm that you will be running the motor at the rings won't seat all the way to the top of the stroke as it will after rod stretch... How do you think a dragster engine is broken in? In the water box.. It has been working for me since early 80's when I was going mid 8's @ 176 MPH in a dragster.. I broke my TSM car in with my first burnout last year at the Nat's and went 130.44 on that run after my break in burnout.. Just my way of doing things.. I am sure others will have their opinion and "better ways" of doing things but I will continue to do it that way.. Dave

 

[monte_383]

When I build engines at work (Caterpillar dealer), we hook em up to the dyno and run them at about 10%load for 20 minutes or so to warm things up and get the cam broke in (on flat tappet cams) then run them at full load for about 2 hours. This is on a waterbrake dyno, no pesky accelerating drums, where you can hold 1300 lb.ft of torque all day at 2000 RPM. HTH's -Chuck

 

[BoostKillsStres]

The last time I was at John Kasse's shop(IHRA Pro Stock F&*d engine builder) he actually built a all alum. chevy 540 for my friends Chevelle. 20 min. on the dyno w/ a little load to seat things and get up to temp, shut it off, checked the valves, checked the timing and started making pulls. Finally made 1020hp w/ a single dominator I'd say he does pretty good head work end engine assembly. I'd really liked to have seen what kind of power that thing could've made w/ a couple turbos and less compression.