Anyone use the complete UMI rotojoint rear end control arm set?

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MarkJamesGN22

New Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2023
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23
This set:


I mainly cruise the car but will occasionally take it to the drag strip. Drag radial. Goal is high 11s consistently. I have used regular urethane on other vehicles and they would actually wear out and make a ton of noise. These rotojoints seem to be a better option on paper, but have never used them in real life. I am also in california with tons of potholes on the roads. If not a good choice I will figure something else out.
 
I don't have that exact set, but they are a superior solution to poly in every circumstance as long as you keep up with them. If you street drive it at all, you'll want to keep them clean and periodically disassemble them and get all the trash out. Might want to get spare delrin inserts for them to go in the trunk.

They will not work in tandem with a Watts link or panhard bar. The suspension binds and the roto joints on the UCAs at the frame side will explode. BTDT.
 
I don't have that exact set, but they are a superior solution to poly in every circumstance as long as you keep up with them. If you street drive it at all, you'll want to keep them clean and periodically disassemble them and get all the trash out. Might want to get spare delrin inserts for them to go in the trunk.

They will not work in tandem with a Watts link or panhard bar. The suspension binds and the roto joints on the UCAs at the frame side will explode. BTDT.
Thanks for the quick reponse! Is that setup not very good for drag racing? I come from European cars so I never expect this car to turn at all so I just want a straight line cruiser. Do you have any suggestions?
 
Got those arms, the theory seemed worth the money if I could get the weight to transfer and tires etc to hook. I got the rear end aligned and with all the components the car hooks the way I want but it's many pieces, not just control arms.
 
The stock suspension needs nothing to run into the high 11s
It can even be done with the sway bars in.
Thanks! Cost is not the problem for some stuff but I just dont want to add unnecessary parts. I wont be drag racing every weekend. Maybe 5 times a year. High 11s are my goal just because I never want to add a roll bar. The car is mostly street driven. If I dont have to deal with creaky noisy urethane bushings, that would make me happy.
 
Thanks! Cost is not the problem for some stuff but I just dont want to add unnecessary parts. I wont be drag racing every weekend. Maybe 5 times a year. High 11s are my goal just because I never want to add a roll bar. The car is mostly street driven. If I dont have to deal with creaky noisy urethane bushings, that would make me happy.
Your welcome!
You can add some suspension parts to make the car drive nicer if you wish but none are a must have for your goals
 
Thanks! Cost is not the problem for some stuff but I just dont want to add unnecessary parts. I wont be drag racing every weekend. Maybe 5 times a year. High 11s are my goal just because I never want to add a roll bar. The car is mostly street driven. If I dont have to deal with creaky noisy urethane bushings, that would make me happy.
Installed correctly they won't creak But those solid won't creak but they will make your old car rattle
 
Thanks for the quick reponse! Is that setup not very good for drag racing? I come from European cars so I never expect this car to turn at all so I just want a straight line cruiser. Do you have any suggestions?
They'll be fine for drag racing. The more important part would be UMI's lower control arm/coil over brackets with the multiple LCA mount holes. Very easy instant center adjustment, and that's what you need.
 
This was the answer I wanted. Thank you!
Looking for the answer you want and the answer you need is not the same thing.


That Chevelle as shipped doesn't have nearly as much NVH mitigation as a G-body. The noise might not matter.

But poly bushings will fall apart on you at some point. The poly eventually crumbles. Those delrin raced roto joins will never fail if you keep them clean.
 
all out race car on paper roto joints cant be beat, but on a fun daily driver noise trumps the performance gained for twice a yr trip to the race track,many g bodys dip into the 9s in the quarter mile with stock rear suspension,in my case it seamed to amplify noises made by the posi and a slight whine at speed from the ring and pinion,went to poly bushings and noises went away,drove 500 miles to gulfport last oct was a great trip,had i had to listen to every rattle and noise coming from rear wouldnt have been a fun trip.
 
Huh I don't hear any noise from the rear Roto arms, while my cars kinda loud I don't hear this and the results would out weigh this IMO. But if you heard noise after the install, it is possible mine are getting out blasted by my side exhaust pipes.

As Turbo6inKY said, roto are tough to beat up and if you're a nice weather driver like me, these will outlast and out perform the others but they're more $.
 
My Jeep the roto joint was amazing for articulation, wheel travel was improve, Nose yes but it's a Jeep. In the mud and water all the time, not every oil change did I have to disassemble but it was often. I would use them again for a Jeep not not my GN.
 
my 66 chevelle has a 142 b&m supercharger,large primary headers x pipe 2.5 in magna flow mufflers with 2.5 in 18 in long glass packs, very quiet, have the hearing and attention span of a pre schooler ive been told
 
My wagooon has an 8.8 out back with trick chassis arms & heim joints. It was awful. Banging & clunking. Installed R joints from ridetech and it’s so much nicer now.
 
I have the ridetech r-joint setup in my car. No noise at all. I think the thing with articulation isn't just for offroad. Polly bushings can bind and your suspension isn't going to work like it should.
 
I have the ridetech r-joint setup in my car. No noise at all. I think the thing with articulation isn't just for offroad. Polly bushings can bind and your suspension isn't going to work like it should.
Ridetech's joints use a rubberish race.
 
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