ATR check valve

[EclipseTurbo]

I was reading about the PCV system.

I don't mind the PCV valve on my car, but even brand new from the dealer, it leaks a little bit of boost. It's just not so perfect when you want to run 25 psi or so.

Then I read some post mentioning this "ATR check valve" sounds like if I put it inline before the PCV valve

(intake manifold -> ATR -> PCV valve -> valve cover)

Seems like this should give me the peace of mind I am looking for.

If my plan is not correct please let me know.

My other question, where can I buy this ATR check valve

Is this what it looks like?
http://www.holmbury.com/pdf_files/ATR_Series.pdf

 

[turbo nasty]

I purchased mine though ramchargers.
Should have done it years ago, cut th oil use by at lleast 85%.

 

[aggressive perf]

The ATR check valve does not go in line, it replaces the factory pcv valve. Works great & only cost $19.50. If interested contact us at www.aggressive auto.com or (586)771-9122
Bruce Alred

 

[EclipseTurbo]

Originally posted by aggressive perf
The ATR check valve does not go in line, it replaces the factory pcv valve. Works great & only cost $19.50. If interested contact us at www.aggressive auto.com or (586)771-9122
Bruce Alred

Is yours the same as the one ram charger sells? Just want to make sure I get the right one. Since none of these sites mention the name ATR?

 

[mgmshar]

Just a thought on the ATR valve,

It replace the PCV valve, so during normal highway cruising, the PCV system is going to be acting differently than it would with a proper valve in there. My understanding is that the ATR "PCV" valve is an orifice in-line with a one-way valve. The orifice is supposed to meter PCV flow during cruise, and of course the one-way valve will shut under boost. I honestly don't know how much effect using this type of valve will have on the overall PCV gas flow during cruise, but I bet it's something.

The best thing that I know off (in my humble opinion) is the one-way check valve that gets put between the PCV valve and the intake manifold. It has little effect on PCV flow during cruise, but will shut tight under boost.

I wish I could remember where I got mine. Oh, now I remember - Performance Systems Manufacturing (303) 279-7103 (aka Peter Tomka). For $20, you get the inline valve and new PCV hoses, so installation is about as easy as anything can be on our cars.

Just another opinion. Lots of people use the ATR valve, so it can't be all bad.

 

[SinistrV6]

I don't know if the one I had was an ATR but it was a brass valve and it caused a mysterious Code 44 that I chased for a long time. Guess it wasn't allowing the proper amount of flow when it wasn't under boost. Pulled the valve, put stock one in and VOILA! No code 44!

 

[mgmshar]

I don't know if the one I had was an ATR but it was a brass valve and it caused a mysterious Code 44 that I chased for a long time. Guess it wasn't allowing the proper amount of flow when it wasn't under boost. Pulled the valve, put stock one in and VOILA! No code 44!

The ATR valve is brass, as I recall. I had one in my car for a while. When I put the stock PCV back in, my idle BLM's did seem to improve. However, the valve never caused a code-44. Maybe you had one that was modified, or from some other company?

 

[rgs455]

I've got the ATR valve and have not had any problems. Several of the more knowledgeable turbo guys recommend changing out the stock valve. It is brass and I purchased it directly from ATR.

 

[Razor]

Whats wrong with an AC Delco PCV valve. I run 27 PSI boost..havent blown any seals..excellent BLM's 127-130 at idle.. only thing that brass POS thing did for me was mess with my blm's.

I take them off of everycar I work on. If you have a bad PCV valve, go buy a new one. Stop cleaning it with brakecleaner or seeing how it rattles next to your ear. Theyre only like 4 bucks and calibrated for your car..

You'll chase codes, and fueling issues with the wrong PCV...

Always do..

back under my rock..

 

[Razor]

Almost forgot.. I have a slightly used one for sale 10.00 bucks, have a couple inline check valves as well 10 dollars each... save money..come and get em..

Oil..yes..thats why you spray alky

Back in hiding

 

[EclipseTurbo]

I tested my OEM one (mitsubishi) with a mityvac,... it pressurize 14 PSI of boost. I put my finger on the other end, it gets slightly pressurized. So me no like

Besides the PCV doesn't close all the way until there is quite a lot of boost, depend on where the ball is really.

I was just planning to put it inline, so PCV still there to limit the vacuum suction.

 

[Razor]

Your DSM might not be as sensitive to vacuum as our Buicks are.. You restrict Vacuum, your BLM's will drop..you increase it they go up..

My belief is get the car as close as it was intended.

easier solution, add a couple breathers to your motor.. its a non issue... even breathers can mess with the blm's.. but what can ya do??

Better breathers than rear main.

 

[EclipseTurbo]

That's why there is a PCV there so no matter how many breather you add there is still have a controlled un metered air leak into the engine. The result is not too bad.

On my car it doesn't matter because I run a standalone system with MAP and it's not a problem.

The check valve before the PCV sounds good for me, just a peace of mind.. I was going to add a solenoid there to close under boost, but too complicated anyway.

 

[Razor]

Thats an idea.. Cheap way is a hobbs switch set to 3 PSI to activate a normally open solenoid closed..

I havent seen too many normally open solenoids, that dont offer a restriction..

Back under my rock. With the rite PCV, its a non issue.. in your case a simple HD checkvalve will do the trick.

 

[EclipseTurbo]

I am going to order this one here

http://www.ramchargers.com/cgi-bin/...18PCVCHECK&SubmitSearch.x=7&SubmitSearch.y=15

Does anyone know if both sides of the valve are hose barbs or is it threaded for a buick?

Is this the ATR valve I am looking for?

Thanks

 

[Razor]

Has small hose barbs on each end.

 

[salvageV6]

I think Kirban sells the kit that goes in line with the stock PCV valve.

Comes ready to install with the hose on it already.

Reminds me I need one for the other car.

 

[wiked87gn]

hey eclipse you should check this website www.psmbuick.com take a look at this product, atr basically tried to copy this desing but as some people know is not perfect.

check this product out.

http://psmbuick.com/products/web_pcv.html

I just ordered mine and it goes inline with the stock pvc plug and play.

 

[EclipseTurbo]

Hi everybody I got my check valve thru ram chargers, it turns out to be the PSMBuick.com one, since the instruction has their name on it (Aka Pete Tomka check valve)?

This is installed into my 1995 mitsubitshi eclipse turbo, where the valve cover has a PCV valve and a breather hose. I put it inline between the PCV valve and intake manifold.

It stops boost from venting into the crankcase completely when I tested it.

However I find that it seems to be restrictive comparing to the stock setup, I pulled it out and it feels the vacuum after this valve is not as strong as before.

With the stock setup at idling I would feel a suction at the breather port.

With the new check valve at idling I feel windage out the breather port, that might mean the new inline check valve is not "sucking" enough.

I don't know what you guys think, maybe it is more calibrated for a buick, it still have suction, just weaker than the stock setup. I guess it's like partially eliminating the PCV valve.

Holds boost very nicely tho, so the spool up time might have decreased a little.l

 

[strikeeagle]

The Tomka valve works as advertised!

Arrangement is Tomka valve, OEM PCV, intake.

Retire the OEM hose and use a properly trimmed P/N 10055808 hose to replace it...