[B]cnc ported irons/o-ring groove ?[/B]

[Rink]

Ok I have these heads with receiver grooves cut in them. OD = 4.240 app. groove width is .060, and the depth of .022 ,figure 8 pattern, (NEVER MEASURED THEM BEFORE THIS WEEKEND). My question is does anybody have an idea what gaskets they might use, O-RING wire and copper? Used 007's befor they don't seal good (WATER LEAKS) stockers work well but I feel I'm not getting most from the combo. Heads and block are flat, and studs are used to hold in place. Thank's for any help with this problem. Mike.

 

[ESP Products]

You must follow Fel-Pro's direction exactly; torque spec and sequesnce. Also be sure the grooves were cut to the correct diameter and DEPTH. The only other cause may be the studs need to be cycled more, if they are new. We use these gaskets often and even have them on our ESP Twin Turbo car. Call with question.

 

[Bryan Weber]

O-rings

Ok I have these heads with receiver grooves cut in them. OD = 4.240 app. groove width is .060, and the depth of .022 ,figure 8 pattern, (NEVER MEASURED THEM BEFORE THIS WEEKEND). My question is does anybody have an idea what gaskets they might use, O-RING wire and copper? Used 007's befor they don't seal good (WATER LEAKS) stockers work well but I feel I'm not getting most from the combo. Heads and block are flat, and studs are used to hold in place. Thank's for any help with this problem. Mike.

Mike,
With a width of .060" it has to be a reciever groove for a copper gasket. The 1007 calls for an .085" wide and an .008 to .012" deep groove (depending on preference). You will have to install a .040" wire in the block or have the heads remachined for the 1007 gasket. Either way we can do this for you or offer advice.

 

[Rink]

Thank's for the responses. as Bryan states the grooves are not for 1007's ,though close in apperance. there not wide enough, and far to deep. Though o-rings are new to me, why couldn't I put wire in the head mated to a copper head gasket ,sort of duplacting what the 007's achive I've herd of o-ring block,---head, or both ,the later with the best seal. :biggrin: ( HEY, DID ANYBODY SEE MY CRANK?? )
I have no idea, on how to install wire in the grooves,can anyone explane? Putting a.040 wire in a .060 groove= LOOSE.
THANK'S MIKE.
PS, ESP, NICE TWIN SETUP!!
AND WEBER RACING , YOU GUY'S HELPED ME OUT SETTING UP MY ROLLER CAM SETUP. ONE PHONE CALL, GOT THE CORRECT SPRINGS,TIMING ASSEMBLY, PUSHRODS AND NOSE BUTTON. THANK'S

 

[Bryan Weber]

Thank's for the responses. as Bryan states the grooves are not for 1007's ,though close in apperance. there not wide enough, and far to deep. Though o-rings are new to me, why couldn't I put wire in the head mated to a copper head gasket ,sort of duplacting what the 007's achive I've herd of o-ring block,---head, or both ,the later with the best seal. :biggrin: ( HEY, DID ANYBODY SEE MY CRANK?? )
I have no idea, on how to install wire in the grooves,can anyone explane? Putting a.040 wire in a .060 groove= LOOSE.
THANK'S MIKE.
PS, ESP, NICE TWIN SETUP!!
AND WEBER RACING , YOU GUY'S HELPED ME OUT SETTING UP MY ROLLER CAM SETUP. ONE PHONE CALL, GOT THE CORRECT SPRINGS,TIMING ASSEMBLY, PUSHRODS AND NOSE BUTTON. THANK'S

Wire can't be put in that .060 groove in the heads. You would have to have the block machined for wire grooves which are .038" wide. These grooves would be machined so that the center of the grooves in the block and heads are aligned and to a depth decided on by the engine builder. The wire (we use stainless spring steel) is then cut to length to leave virtually no gap when installed. The wire is carefully installed to not damage to deck surface. Once this is done correctly you have a copper gasket with a combustion seal that is second to none.

 

[NHRA Super Gas]

Wire can't be put in that .060 groove in the heads. You would have to have the block machined for wire grooves which are .038" wide. These grooves would be machined so that the center of the grooves in the block and heads are aligned and to a depth decided on by the engine builder. The wire (we use stainless spring steel) is then cut to length to leave virtually no gap when installed. The wire is carefully installed to not damage to deck surface. Once this is done correctly you have a copper gasket with a combustion seal that is second to none.

Partial Thread Hijack, sorry....

With all the talk of head gasket problems (and it seems to be the achilles heel of a high boost combo) I would think copper/o-ring is the ONLY way to go. Why isn't everyone doing this? We've done our N/A race motors that way for years, and they hardly even need re-torque after initial warm up. I would think the 231 would last much longer and eliminate many owners headaches with copper HG.

Please let me know if there is a reason they are not in use more.

Thanks,

EW

 

[Bryan Weber]

copper head gaskets

One reason is cost of machining turns some people off. Another is sealing water. If one is not real cautious when applying sealer and installing gaskets they may leak. Stock type head gaskets are friendlier in this respect. The other reaon that I know of is that due to the marginal strength of the bottom end compared to the high output of these engines, any flaw in the combustion process that causes detonation could make these things come apart. A head gasket that is not bullit proof is a good fuse and hopefully will fail before the crank comes out.
But I agree that the copper gasket with o-rings and reciever grooves provides the ultimate combustion seal and works very well when all is done correctly.