Backfire and now idling rough/sputtering.

[robzombie]

I used to go off of 2 to 3000 ohms per foot range its about standard but don't really like this type of test for troubleshooting, this is just my opionion, their are are other ways to get their.

What is the best way then??

The scientific way you already suggested, spraying water on them and looking for the arc?

Yea that's a good idea and won't do any damage to the electrical system like cross arcing or worse.

Why not just have your best friend stand in a bucket of water and hold each wire one at a time.

When he screams the loudest that will tell you which is the worst wire and should be changed first if your best friend hasn't beat the crap out of you and put you in the hospital at that point.

 

[626gn]

What is the best way then??

The scientific way you already suggested, spraying water on them and looking for the arc?

Yea that's a good idea and won't do any damage to the electrical system like cross arcing or worse.

Why not just have your best friend stand in a bucket of water and hold each wire one at a time.

When he screams the loudest that will tell you which is the worst wire and should be changed first if your best friend hasn't beat the crap out of you and put you in the hospital at that point.

This time you beat me . Least you're getting quicker.

 

[gunzandgearz]

What is the best way then??

The scientific way you already suggested, spraying water on them and looking for the arc?

Yea that's a good idea and won't do any damage to the electrical system like cross arcing or worse.

Why not just have your best friend stand in a bucket of water and hold each wire one at a time.

When he screams the loudest that will tell you which is the worst wire and should be changed first if your best friend hasn't beat the crap out of you and put you in the hospital at that point.

another keyboard cowboy dumbass

 

[robzombie]

another keyboard cowboy dumbass

Really, if you're so smart share with the world how you would test wires in the OTHER WAYS THAT THERE ARE TO GET THERE as you have stated.

You're the dumb and if you don't want to be treated as such don't post as such.

What moron suggested that water be sprayed on the wires to induce arcing???

I believe it was another keyboard cowboy dumbass named gunzandgears that posted spraying wires is the way to test for bad wires.

Then you ask how many OHMS they should be and you think you already know the answer to that one also.

I was always told not to argue with an idiot as I will always lose because they have more practice at it. I'm not going down that rabbit hole with the likes of someone with your mentality.

Good luck on your future endeavors, you're going to need it.

 

[gunzandgearz]

And people wonder why the true pros hardly get on these boards, your a prime example as to why,good luck too ya.

 

[robzombie]

And people wonder why the true pros hardly get on these boards, your a prime example as to why,good luck too ya.

Are you saying that you're a real pro???

The way you suggested that he test his wires sounds like it came from a teenager with no tools or experience.

What you suggested could end up doing more damage. So have all the BUTT HURT you want, I am just pointing out bad advice so as to save the OP from potential damage by testing like you stated.

 

[gunzandgearz]

Go home kid

 

[robzombie]

Go home kid

I'm still waiting on you to point out your better way of testing wires.

 

[gunzandgearz]

I'm still waiting on you to point out your better way of testing wires.

Alright since your like a little kid and wont leave this alone, I am a professional and while I don't know everything their is to know on cars, as no one does, here is a little background on me, I spent quite a few years In the aircraft industry as an experimental flightline mechanic in the engineering dept. building and certifying business jets for Cessna aircraft,after doing that for a number of years I came home and opened up a transmission and auto repair shop which I have owned and operated for the past 20 years.In this repair shop we build differentials,transmissions,as well as building hi perf gm engines for a lot of muscle cars as well as modern Ls stuff,by the way we do tons of electrical diagnostics and computer troubleshooting as well,so I do know just a wee bit about ecm`s and the drivers that are in them. I own a mid 9 sec. 69 chevelle as well as my grand national and in the process of finishing up a 600 horsepower 78 bandit trans am that is a father son project.So if you want to say im not a professional, then I would like to know what one would consider a pro,again not saying I know it all because I don't but ive done a hell of a lot in my career as a mechanic and business owner and have a hell of a lot of fast cars that I have built nearly thing on them myself.So now to the point and this is the last im going to say on the subject. As far as spraying a fine mist of water on the wires one at a time is going to hurt the module by watching to see if they arc,well I don't know what to tell you,and as far as the ohms test you subscribe to, I will explaine that also.I tried this method numerous times as a young tech and hardly ever did it work, only if the wire was so bad that it was obvious, and now ill explain this too. when you have a wire and you run an ohms test on a wire and it tests good, and then I take that wire and cut through about 50 percent of the way through that wire but still leave it still intact,it will still pass an ohms test, problem is it wont pass the test when you put a load on it, because it wont flow enough current through it. its like sticking the battery in the trunk and running an 18 guage wire up to the starter sol. wont work,why because wont carry the load,now you can say what you want or disagree I really don't care,but their is your explanation that you were laughing out loud about and now you can come back with your childish comments, im done.

 

[robzombie]

That being said, you of all people should know that the water test can cause damage to the coil, module or ecm if the arc jumps from the wire or coil pack to a wire that it is close to.

In your original statement you said spray the wires period. You made no mention of spraying individual wires or staying away from the coil pack.

If the problem is in the coil pack and not the wires it could also fry the module or ecm. We are talking high voltage in the coil and wires that could fry components that are designed to run on between 5 and 12 volts if the arc from them jumps to those wires.

I only state this because I was once a young mechanic 30 years ago and made this mistake.

That was an old school method that worked before the introduction of computer controls and should only be used on non computer controlled vehicles.

We do have something in common though. I don't know everything either and will always continue to learn something new and as the older I get I will probably forget more than I learn.

 

[gunzandgearz]

well then we can agree to disagree, I still say that it can be done on the wires, as if they are breaking down they are still arcing out to ground ie the block or valve covers and if they are doing this I personally don't know what the difference would be, the water is just a conductor that will expose the problem,but I agree lets call a truce,agreed.i will say this hopefully someone wouldn't be crazy enough to spray around any electronics or the coil and maybe I should have stated this as sometimes when trying to help someone, you forget to get to every detail.

 

[Deejpig]

Sounds like it might be a bad MAF.

What MAF are you running and how old is it?

You can try cleaning it first and then the tap test next, although neither will confirm it 100% unless the change is drastic.

When you get the S/M you will be able to check TPS, IAC and other info and post it for a more accurate diagnosis if the MAF isn't the problem.

If you or someone you know has a known good one [MAF] try that and see what it does.

Now that "robzombie" and "gunzandgearz" have agreed to disagree, we can get back to the original issue at hand...

I got a scanmaster and finally had time to install it. My IAC and TPS were a little bit off so I adjusted those, but everything else looks good. The car is still idling fine but, again, after it warms up, the RPM's start jumping around and it will cut off. Even when it is idling OK, once I put it into gear it will start to stutter/bog down and I can't even make it out of my driveway. As soon as I put it in park, it will idle relatively OK again.

robzombie, what is the "tap test" for the MAF? Mine is a stock MAF, and I did notice when I was looking at the MAF connections that when I wiggled one of the wires the car would lose RPM and if I pressed hard enough on the wire, the car cuts off.

This seems to be an issue with the engine getting up to temp and causing a something to malfunction. I didn't have a chance to record the scanmaster numbers, so I'm going to do that now and post them for feedback. I'm also going to try to get my hands on a known working MAF and read up on vortex buicks. In the meantime, any other suggestions are appreciated!

 

[gsgnnut]

As others have said it could be a host of possible gremlins. Sounds like it might be related to o2 sensor operation. Cold engine runs off ecm not using o2 till warms up and when it goes into closed loop it starts having problem. Could be vac leaks or if still running a factory prom chip just a crummy chip. Check erg carefully as they can leak bad and cause major mahem. Take egr off car and test for leaks by the pintle when closed. I have 2 that have good diaphrams but leak bad by the needle. Also check intake bolts. I've had loose intake bolts and egr leaks cause this problem. Tightening intake bolts,Replacing the chip and new egr solved it for me. Factory chip is garbage. Good luck.

 

[Gene Van Horn]

Just start your car and tap on the maff sensor with a skrewdriver or wrench, if the idle drops up and down it is usually no good. Bad maff will by the way cause all the probs you have described same as bad o2 sensor will. Easy to do, give it a try.

 

[ITSAV6]

"Mine is a stock MAF, and I did notice when I was looking at the MAF connections that when I wiggled one of the wires the car would lose RPM and if I pressed hard enough on the wire, the car cuts off. "
I would look at this issue.

 

[Gene Van Horn]

Most of the guys get rid of the stock maff and go with the LS deals, way more reliable and not to exspensive. Plus those sensors are getting hard to get, at least the real ones. If what you describe is happening when you mess with the wires then you fou d one of your problems for sure,there may be more.

 

[m3x1c0]

I thought it might be from running a lower octane gas. Again, it didn't seem like big deal because it ran fine during normal driving and harder acceleration - just not WOT.

What exact octane were you using? If you must for some reason run a lower Octane than your chip is burned for (probably no less than 91) don't even think about going over half-throttle. Keep it out of boost till you can get the octane back up. Sounds like you lifted a head or blew a headgasket. Get the SM wired up, drain the tank and cycle through some 93 Octane and pray.