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Balancer help needed...

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Turbo6Smackdown

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2005
Messages
6,110
Ok, my forged crank was internally balanced. I was told I need a zero balance balancer to make it all work. I see 2 from TA. One for 2 hundred something, the other for 4 hundred something.. Which one do I get? I was hoping for something cheap, as this is just a piece of steel, that a monkey could turn out. It's not science. I'm not seeing how a balancer, that you just throw on, can be soo much... :(
 
200 and 400 , i wish :)
actually the TA is closer over 300 and the BHJ is over 500 with shipping

these are buicks not chevys , much much smaller market

if you really want cheap to take a risk on a forged crank setup you could have the stocker cut to a neutral balance (weber racing) but even that will run 225 plus what the stock balancer is worth (as a core) plus shipping

the TA is really just a hub like the stocker but it is stronger and sfi approved if you do track the car in the 10s

the BHJ is a true harmonic damper and is SFI approved , but be forewarned they do have a consistancy issue with being at true zero and staying there (you need to verify it once its running and correct either the discrepency physically or within the programming ), its typical to find the balancer off 4* and this wont show up on a scanmaster readout when you look at timing , only looking with a dial back timing gun will tell you where its at

dont forget youll also need a neutral flywheel ,
the JW is SFI and the best but runs about $200. weber does a modified stocker for 155
there is a really cheap Cat china wheel (the gold ones) that say its sfi but a flywheel that comes with a sfi sticker that isnt date punched or applied reads fake , and not all cat wheels are simple bolt on they usually need a little clearance work with a die grinder ..but hey they are cheap and that is what your after right
 
balancers anf flexplate

I have done a few engines using the stock balancer (machined to neutral) These are not real high HP cars (mid to high 10s@ best). No problem with any of them. I have a friend who does the machine work for $90. Keep in mind this gets them CLOSE. Finish being made neutral when balance work is done.
I had a nightmare with a Cat flexplate. Curvature was wrong and no space between convertor and flexplate. In balancers and flexplates --you get what you pay for.
 
200 and 400 , i wish :)
actually the TA is closer over 300 and the BHJ is over 500 with shipping

these are buicks not chevys , much much smaller market

if you really want cheap to take a risk on a forged crank setup you could have the stocker cut to a neutral balance (weber racing) but even that will run 225 plus what the stock balancer is worth (as a core) plus shipping

the TA is really just a hub like the stocker but it is stronger and sfi approved if you do track the car in the 10s

the BHJ is a true harmonic damper and is SFI approved , but be forewarned they do have a consistancy issue with being at true zero and staying there (you need to verify it once its running and correct either the discrepency physically or within the programming ), its typical to find the balancer off 4* and this wont show up on a scanmaster readout when you look at timing , only looking with a dial back timing gun will tell you where its at

dont forget youll also need a neutral flywheel ,
the JW is SFI and the best but runs about $200. weber does a modified stocker for 155
there is a really cheap Cat china wheel (the gold ones) that say its sfi but a flywheel that comes with a sfi sticker that isnt date punched or applied reads fake , and not all cat wheels are simple bolt on they usually need a little clearance work with a die grinder ..but hey they are cheap and that is what your after right

The first bolded phrase. "take a risk" How am I taking a risk with a cut stocker. (I have absolutely no knowledge on balancers, as you can tell)

And you say that JW is best. Better than TA Performances? What's the difference (in detail) between JW's and TA's. And if I can help it, I'll have no asian stuff on my car.
And what does it mean to e SFI approved. Do you mean squential fuel injection approved? How does a balancer tell the difference between the different methods of getting fuel in the mix?
 
The first bolded phrase. "take a risk" How am I taking a risk with a cut stocker. (I have absolutely no knowledge on balancers, as you can tell)

And you say that JW is best. Better than TA Performances? What's the difference (in detail) between JW's and TA's. And if I can help it, I'll have no asian stuff on my car.
And what does it mean to e SFI approved. Do you mean squential fuel injection approved? How does a balancer tell the difference between the different methods of getting fuel in the mix?


SFI is a safety certification required for use by NHRA and tracks that must conform to NHRA rules . running 10s (10.99 or faster) to be in compliance with the rules you should have SFI balancer and flywheel , many dont but rules are rules .

the risk depends on the power level , stock balancer and 10s have been ok , worked for me for years on a stock crank at that level , but for 9s id be looking for a balancer thats not made from cast and wont crack which the stocker is ,
im running the BHJ but had to correct my timing accordingly with the FAST

if your plans are to never run a forged crank to its potential or your build wont support any faster than 10s than for you the stock balancer machined for neutral should be fine

the SFI flywheel that TA sells as far as i know is the JW wheel.
 
Ah I see. Thank you! Well, you can see what's in my signature. My goal, is a few solid, repeatable 10.9 passes. I just want to see if I can crack it. My engine builder also said the same thing. The stocker (cut) is ok, and has survived like 99% of the time. But I got some bad luck, so I'm lookin for an aftermarket model. Just comin' here to see the differences between 'em all. :)
 
solid repeatable 10.9s ..dont see mention in your sig of ported heads . are you still on stock heads? ,
 
I knew that was comin lol. They will be ported, yes. Even if they aren't, the engines still going to get pushed that hard though.
 
I have a neutral balanced stocker that I will sell "cheap"

It lived in the garage for a while, so the seal surface could use a little polishing with some fine sandpaper.

Sorry for the thread hijack, hit me with a PM if you want to discuss.

Bob
 
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