Battery voltage at 11 constantly even after new battery/alternator

[ScottHeidinger]

You just need to start all the bolts and leave them lose. Once you get all the bolts started then it should line up unless the case of the alternator is not aligned properly.


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[ScottHeidinger]

Looks like the bottom of that bracket isn’t attached to the header stud also.


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[GNbythebay]

Looks like the bottom of that bracket isn’t attached to the header stud also.


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Yes it’s not attached. Could that be the reason why the alternator is not working at 100% because it’s not fully grounded

 

[ScottHeidinger]

It should still be grounded by the big end of the alternator housing being attached.


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[ScottHeidinger]

Need to get the bracket connected properly so you don’t kill the bearings in the alternator.

Are you saying a new alternator is still not charging?


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[ScottHeidinger]

Hard to see in your pic but I can’t see the positive wire that goes from the battery to the alternator post connected. I see the fuel pump Hotwire but don’t see the positive battery wire on the post. Maybe it’s there and I can’t see it (I hope) it looks like it may be behind the connector for fuel pump but I can’t see it very well.


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[GNbythebay]

Hard to see in your pic but I can’t see the positive wire that goes from the battery to the alternator post connected. I see the fuel pump Hotwire but don’t see the positive battery wire on the post. Maybe it’s there and I can’t see it (I hope) it looks like it may be behind the connector for fuel pump but I can’t see it very well.


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It’s behind the FP wire.

 

[GNbythebay]

Need to get the bracket connected properly so you don’t kill the bearings in the alternator.

Are you saying a new alternator is still not charging?


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That’s what the auto parts store told me. The alternator was only charging the battery to 12 volts

 

[gunzandgearz]

Since the wire runs directly from the alternator to the battery that's Impossible unless the wire is broken. take the red wire off the battery and the alternator and do a continuity check. The wire runs along the bottom front of the engine in the funky conduit that's attached to the bottom studs on the front cover.

Not trying to bust your chops by any means Captain Dave but the continuity check it's not really all that good of a check as you can have continuity on a wire but it will not carry the load and what I mean by that is I can run a continuity check and it checks good but if I cut 5 of the six strands running through that wire it will check good on continuity but will not carry a load this is why I only use continuity tests for minor things I usually use a headlight to load test a wire anyway again not being condescending just my two cents on the subject

 

[captndave737]

Thats very true but measuring voltage is no better. You can still read 12v on both ends of that same wire with 5 of 6 strands broken but it won't carry the necessary amperage. A case in point is I could measure 12v going to my high speed fan relay but it wouldn't close because it couldn't carry the amperage due to high resistance in a down line connector.

It's just a quick check and is usually pretty good. A good ohm meter can measure the difference in resistance between a 5' strand of 6ga and 18ga wire.