Best coating for 1007 HG?

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GTEATER

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What is the best coating to use on the 1007 HG? Tom at Champion suggested a thin layer to help water sealing. My engine builder said he did not think silicone would stick to the teflon coating on the HG. I've heard of Gasketcinch and Copper Kote....any recomendations?
 
When you said you were pushing coolant into the overflow. How much were you talking about. And how hot were you running. I just put a set in dry and the over flow jug will rise a few inches and on a 10.77 pass the temp was at 178 at the end of a run. The problem i have is when it cools down the coolant does not return to the rad.
 
After a couple a blast down the Hwy it would overflow the jug and blow all over my engine compartment. With the heads off you can see major exhaust leaks on both heads upward to the two center water ports.
 
Originally posted by GTEATER
What is the best coating to use on the 1007 HG? Tom at Champion suggested a thin layer to help water sealing. My engine builder said he did not think silicone would stick to the teflon coating on the HG. I've heard of Gasketcinch and Copper Kote....any recomendations?
Dry has worked well for me. If everything is right you shouldn't need anything.
 
I've used a skim coat of high temp RTV (the orange stuff) successfully around the water ports...I believe Cal Hartline does the same.
 
If I had your engine in front of me here is what I would do. First I hope the deck of the block and heads were checked for flatness >.002" and that would be my first priority. I would then run a chasing tap down the bolt holes in the block (make sure to keep stuff out of the cylinders by bringing the piston to the top, etc..). At this point make sure you have the proper lube like ARP or 10-30 motor oil and I like to use Permatex #2 on the threaded ends of the bolts or studs that go into the block. Lay the 1007 on the dowel-pins then place the head on. Lube up your washers and head bolt heads (underneath). Now you have to work a little faster. Take your first bolt assembly and coat the threads twirling it between your thumb and index finger to smooth it out and remove excess #2. Put it in and take it down tight as possible by fingers. Move on to the next one until you have them all in place. I don't have the sheet for the 1007's anymore but going from memory I think the torque sequence is:


1 2 3 4

8 7 6 5


but don't hold me to it. It should be in with your gaskets. I remember going back and forth. From what I rember you torque all of them to 35 lbs. on the first pull. Go back and torque them all to 65 lbs. Go back and torque them all to 75 lbs. And for the final torquing (is that a word:D ) go back and torque the long ones (1-4) to 85 lbs. At this point let it sit as long as possible then go back with your torque wrench set at 75 lbs. and pull 5-8 to make sure it still clicks then go up to 85 lbs. and pull 1-4 again.


Notes: Check your receiver depth and also drop in a pack of powderized seal tabs just as a preventative. Should work well for you!
 
Thanks for the input IC.

My question is if the 1107s have the teflon coating...how does the Silicon adhear to it? I'm sure it will stick to the block or heads but does it work on the gasket itself?

The oil only goes around the washer right...not the treads?
 
Originally posted by GTEATER
Thanks for the input IC.

My question is if the 1107s have the teflon coating...how does the Silicon adhear to it? I'm sure it will stick to the block or heads but does it work on the gasket itself?

The oil only goes around the washer right...not the treads?
Maybe these guys know more than me. The blue beads of crap around the water ports is thicker than the gasket so if two surfaces are sandwiching it correctly I don't know how RTV would help there. I would think it would push it out of the way like I have seen on normal intake manifold gaskets. Do it if it make you feel better but I have never done this.
 
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