Best head gaskets

I agree with ya BUT if the guy is having problems with the car (tuning ;-) ) he should use a stock type gasket .. It's very forgiving till he has the car figured out. :eek::cool: Of course get rid of the "O" rings to.

Dan I agree with you but figure out the problem. If he can’t do that then get to someone who can.
 
I build motors all the time and never ever had one come back. I’m not going to debate it either. I speak from experience. I know there is no breK in. That is a myth. Sorry....

We are just about done with a new motor here. Should have it back in by Monday.. Wed is racing all day 12pm/10pm. :cool:
 
Working at a dealer I see what brand new engine parts look like compared to re-built. Nothing wrong with machined parts... they just can't match to precision of fresh cast factory machined parts.
Hence why a break in period is necessary for re-built engines.


As someone that machines my own parts, I strongly disagree with that. I can't count how many times I've put a factory part into a machine and crappy factory machining lights up like a XXXmas tree.

I shaved a head the other day that needed an extra .006"+ just to get rid of the factory cutter marks. There were PLENTY of paths from the fire ring to every water port on that surface.

Here's a factory finish that I corrected on my personal intake manifold.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/earlbrown/buickstuff/enginebuild/IM002529.jpg

Not to mention having different deck heights on all four corners of a block (and a crappy finish a lot of the times).
 
I'm just saying for the help of it. I work at a gm dealer as well I've probably installed hundreds of pistons over the years mainly for oil consumption in 5.3, 2.4 and just recently the turbo 1.4 that one is for performance reasons. And I usually put in New rod bearings when there out and I have never once broke in one of those engines. I'll fire them up and blast them down the road.
 
Every headgasket needs a properly machined head and deck surface.
Break in is a crutch for poor machining, and even break in won't help it!
A dealer, factory parts, and a GOOD race machine shop are miles apart.
We have built hundreds of HP street, and race engines to very tight tolerances with very expensive equipment, and zero break in. The tolerances, finish, and quality of parts is a major difference between race parts and machining and factory assembly line engines.
Done properly, no break in is needed.
Cometic and other seriously HP gaskets require the block AND heads be surfaced with CBN diamond tooled equipment, only, read the instructions, anything else is a gamble, or luck, nothing more.
The pic is of a 572", hi helix 14-71 blown, Brodix headed, water to air intercooled boat motor. It made 1268 HP on pump gas, WITHOUT the nitrous, at 11.5 lbs boost. There was another 400 HP of squeeze on it too. On pump gas.
The first outing was to Havasu where it ran over 126 MPH without the bottle, for 11 miles. Then the boost was cranked up, and on 100VP, it ran over 150 on the way back. Without the "bottle." That was its "break in." Nobody wanted to drive it top speed on the bottle, just get "there" quicker.
It was sold after 14 years with the same motor in it, then the new owner leaned it out (he said he was a better tuner than us) and burnt a piston a few years later. It got a new set of pistons, rings, and a hone, and is still running (our tune again.)
I've never seen a factory machined motor and parts win a NASCAR or NHRA race, just saying.
TIMINATOR
 

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it was o-ringed with ARP head bolts, with crapy stock replacement fel-pro head gaskets.
Fel Pro blues are AWESOME gaskets.
They're NOT meant for "O" ringed block or heads, whoever installed them is crappy, not the gaskets, LOL
 
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