Best head gaskets
- Thread starter raregn
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- Feb 18, 2006
MLS are the most durable. Preferably Cometic.
raregn
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- Jul 20, 2010
MLS is what I was thinking, just wasn't sure if those were just for aluminum heads.
I'm going to take a look at the engine in question today, blew a head gasket under boost. So I assume they are fel-pro head gaskets that blew into the valley on cylinder #3... and probably stock head bolts.
I'm going to take a look at the engine in question today, blew a head gasket under boost. So I assume they are fel-pro head gaskets that blew into the valley on cylinder #3... and probably stock head bolts.
raregn
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- Jul 20, 2010
This is not my motor, it's a friend. Engine was built 15 years ago but has only gone a couple hundred kilometers in that time. I'm going to suggest he stud it.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
If it's a built motor and you plan on running high boost I would go with cometics.
My $.02
My $.02
raregn
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- Jul 20, 2010
I went to look at the engine in question yesterday... it was o-ringed with ARP head bolts, with crapy stock replacement fel-pro head gaskets. Head gasket failed on #3 at 25+psi boost.
He's going to use cometic MLS gaskets and I recommend he stud it.
He is the original owner of the car and this is the 3rd time he's had the engine out in less than 2000km. His biggest regret is modifying it, he says he should have left it stock.
He's going to use cometic MLS gaskets and I recommend he stud it.
He is the original owner of the car and this is the 3rd time he's had the engine out in less than 2000km. His biggest regret is modifying it, he says he should have left it stock.
If it is the 3rd time out with that few driven miles something is wrong. Whether it's his fuel, tune, assembly, something is wrong. I have beat on my victor reinz gaskets at 25+lbs for 10+ years and that car can run Mid to low 6's in the 1/8 and it doesn't have a fancy ignition or ecm to keep all things "magically" in check. If he is running cast iron heads check for warpage.
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- Feb 18, 2006
I would machine the groove out.
Turbo Archie
Active Member
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- Feb 2, 2018
were the fel pros like a stock graphite material?
If so, that stuff is all in your oil system getting ready to clog oil feed holes...
..
If so, that stuff is all in your oil system getting ready to clog oil feed holes...
..
raregn
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- Jul 20, 2010
Why is everyone always so quick to blame the machine shop? If the machine work was that perfect you wouldn't even need gaskets.
Most engine failures after a re-build are the result of improper break in.
It's cheap parts, crap gas and a heavy foot that causes most failures.
Re-torqing head bolts on domestic engines is a myth. In most cases major disassembly is required to access head bolts.
I'm a diesel tech at a Ford dealer. The 6.7L powerstroke has 45 head bolts. It would be 10-12 hours of work to re-torque them. And they run double the compression and more boost.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Engine break in is a myth.... Surly has nothing to do with blowing a head gasket....
Head gasket failures are due to knock. Plain and simple. Overboosting with the wrong fuel and too much timing. And the operator not having a clue about what's going on. Most guys can't tell you how much boost they are running when they have a gauge right on the pillar...
MLS gaskets are the most durable head gasket you can buy. Will others work? Sure but they will blow way before a MLS. Guaranteed...
raregn
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- Jul 20, 2010
I totally agreement break in has nothing to do with head gaskets.
But I've done a lot of engines multiple times with wiped out rod bearings due to lack of break in.
I'm a licensed technician with 25 years of experience. I've also done a lot of GN engines for other people. The ones who follow my extensive break in procedure have had no problems... the ones who don't, we'll let's just say I get a lot of practice pulling engines from them. All connecting rod bearing failures.
Working at a dealer I see what brand new engine parts look like compared to re-built. Nothing wrong with machined parts... they just can't match to precision of fresh cast factory machined parts.
Hence why a break in period is necessary for re-built engines.
I agree with ya BUT if the guy is having problems with the car (tuning ;-) ) he should use a stock type gasket .. It's very forgiving till he has the car figured out.
Of course get rid of the "O" rings to.
raregn
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- Jul 20, 2010
I agree with ya BUT if the guy is having problems with the car (tuning ;-) ) he should use a stock type gasket .. It's very forgiving till he has the car figured out.
The heads are at the machine shop to get the o-ring grooves machined out, if not possible he has another set of stock heads.
He plans to use MLS gaskets with ARP head bolts (cause he already has the head bolts), and then find out why it over boosted.
GM head gaskets are still available, and that's what I used when I did my engine last year... with ARP head bolts, get rid of the TTY bolts. mine is pretty much a stock re-build with a bit of a cam. (comp cams 212/212)
The engine I started this thread about is heavily modified, it was built in New Jersey a while ago (10+ years ago) and apparently the shop is gone now. Engine build was phenomenal except for the crappy head gaskets used, lots of go fast goodies, porting and polishing, gasket matching, balancing, billet main caps and so on.
I'm not looking to start another break in debate... I have my ways and they work. For those who think it's not necessary, I almost always get paid to do their engines again within a couple months.
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- Feb 18, 2006
I build motors all the time and never ever had one come back. I’m not going to debate it either. I speak from experience. I know there is no breK in. That is a myth. Sorry....
