Best Oil and oil filter?

[Turbo Keith]

Cheap filters have shittly drainback valves that don't work. Yes, they are equipped with the flapper, but it they don't seal, they don't count.


For example I know a lot of women that physically own a brain. But when they don't work, it doesn't count.

I now understand my friend

 

[TurboTGuy]

Oh dear lord, another oil/filter thread..........

Number 24,342.

Guess the search function is down again, huh?

 

[Anthony P]

I'd say Earl has oil filter recommendations covered in post #10.

This may be of interest to someone...a Mopar enthusiast did extensive oil filter composition/internal construction analysis. Beginning in 1999, he sought to buy every available oil filter brand from the parts stores and cut them open to learn the internal make up and actual manufacturer for that brand (private label, etc)....Qualifying the media material, # of pleats, type of cartridge caps, spring type, anti-drainback valving, etc. While his research study only went 9 years to 2008, this destructive analysis illustrated that there is something to be gained through the use of a high quality filter and its corresponding higher price point.

It's an interesting read. check it out here. be sure to scroll to the top of the page. the link loads partway down.

 

[GNRick]

If the oil filter is on the bottom of the motor, mounted vertically, is the anti drain back valve needed? Also, should the filter be filled with oil before installing it or will the oil find it's way to the filter on it's own?

 

[TurboTGuy]

If the oil filter is on the bottom of the motor, mounted vertically, is the anti drain back valve needed? Also, should the filter be filled with oil before installing it or will the oil find it's way to the filter on it's own?

I fill my filter half way before installation. I have the biggie adaptor and use a WIX 51258 filter. It's just what I do.

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

I fill my filter half way before installation. I have the biggie adaptor and use a WIX 51258 filter. It's just what I do.

^^ X2
I hit my secret location fuel pump kill switch and crank the engine until the gauge shows oil pressure before flipping the switch to fire it up as well.

 

[earlbrown]

If the oil filter is on the bottom of the motor, mounted vertically, is the anti drain back valve needed? Also, should the filter be filled with oil before installing it or will the oil find it's way to the filter on it's own?

No, yes, and eventually .......but the engine will be blowing air through the bearing areas.

 

[MCH86GN]

Cheap filters have shittly drainback valves that don't work. Yes, they are equipped with the flapper, but it they don't seal, they don't count.


For example I know a lot of women that physically own a brain. But when they don't work, it doesn't count.

They work, but they chose not to use them. They want everything thought out and done for them.

 

[MCH86GN]

^^ X2
I hit my secret location fuel pump kill switch and crank the engine until the gauge shows oil pressure before flipping the switch to fire it up as well.

I typically unplug the fuel pump connector at the back and crank until I build oil pressure. Need to add the secret kill switch in the cab so I don't have to get dirty and track it back into my beauty.

 

[CarCrazy]

Need a little advice on the best oil and oil filter for a stock engine..Someone in a old thread told me to get a 94 S10 4.3 vin W filter..Any Input?
I'd like to do the oil this weekend..Thanks!

This is the first time I’ve posted a comment on this forum. I worked in the Tribology (lubrication) field for many years in the oil & gas industry. I’m going to chime in on the subject of oil filtration.

One of the most important properties of filtration for equipment with very tight clearances, like car engines, is the micron rating of the filter media. Most often the filter media is made of phenolic treated pleated paper. In my field of turbomachinery and tribology, this was the most common media used for machinery filters. The smaller the micron rating the quicker the filter will plug if there is debris/wear metals/contaminants in the oil that are larger in size the micron rating (absolute). As the filter gets dirty/plugs up the differential pressure across the filter media increases to the point where the internal bypass (pressure relief) valve opens so as not to starve the engine of lubrication and to not overpressure the filter cartridge/housing. If you’re running a high volume oil pump it is possible for the filter downstream (outlet) pressure to potentially drop as the filter plugs and the bypass valve reaches its capacity to bypass the oil flow. The filter in essence takes on the properties and acts as an orifice in the lube system.

Another important aspect is total filter area of the media. So it is true that a larger/longer filter provides additional filtration capacity but has no effect on filtration quality. The micron rating and the quality of the pleated material are two of the most important aspects that governs the quality of filtration. For a given amount of wear metals/debris/contaminants in the system, a longer/larger filter only increases the amount of time it takes for the bypass valve to open. If you’re running a high volume oil pump, it is possible for the filter downstream (outlet) pressure to drop slightly as the bypass valve reaching its flow capacity to handle the higher flow as the filter plugs. In this case, the filter in essence takes on the properties (acts as) an orifice in the system.

Obviously also important is the quality of the filtration media, i.e., pleated paper, etc.. and the overall construction quality, i.e., glue joint, etc..

The best/highest quality material for the perforated tube core is stainless steel. A thicker outer housing material is not really important and provides no added benefit.

These are just a few things that come to mind as I read through these threads.

I welcome any comments

Tom

 

[KC87]

This is the bestest! vintage DSL DAVIS-HOWLAND Oil Corp. Rochester NY motor oil quart can not sign | #1747142246

Back in the 70s I drove an old F-100 4wd for three years for a winter beater and literally had 24 can cases of this stuff in 30w
I got for free along with cases of old army 30w that poured like water even in the cold winter.
The truck was unique that it would change the oil itself, I'd throw it in and it'd throw it right back out. Thing just kept on
chugging down the road coating the asphalt saving money for the state.
I remember one night going home from work on 390 and heard this bang, looked in the mirror and the tailgate was laying in the road.
The bed was so rusted it fell off. Got it back on and thank the Lord for bungy cords to hold the bed sides together.
Then the second year the headlight light switch was shorting out and they would keep flashing on and off. Talk about pissing oncoming drivers off
trying to tell me their high beams aren't on "asshole", lol.
How's that for a story about which oil.