Best paint???

[imjoesnuffy]

My car got painted 2 weeks ago..... It didn't turn out well

My uncle has been painting cars for over 40 years. He knows how to paint, very well. He made me a heck of a deal on my car that I couldn't pass up.

We spent over 2 weeks on the body prep, literally hundreds of hours of sanding and blocking. I chose Dupont primer, paint and clearcoat.

I wasn't there when it was sprayed. He called me after the 3rd base coat. Said that something wasn't right with the paint. Started "raisining up" as he put it. Never even got the clearcoat on. My car currently has the look and feel of truckbed liner, well not that bad, but you get the idea.

He double checked everything. Humidity between 40-50. No water in the tanks, filtration system on the gun, the whole nine yards. Spray gun was brand new and was cleaned.

We went back to the store he buys from and they have refunded for the full amount and they are going to give me the employee rate on any choice of paint. What would you recommend?

My uncle stated he has had good results with DBU 9700, which is a subsidiary of PPG. It is old school paint. The guy at the store stated it hasn't been really popular in about 20 years. It is cheap too, for everything they are pricing the paint, clearcoat, actuator and hardener for only $400

Anyone ever used DBU paint on there car before? Thanks in advance for any opinions.

 

[jcawley3]

not sure about that paint, but was wondering where you painted the car? I have had that happen before...I was in a very old booth..that had one of those steel carports over it...a quick summer shower came up before paint was dry...

 

[imjoesnuffy]

Professional downdraft booth

 

[kh440]

sounds like the paint and the primer just don't mesh. did you/your uncle put a primer/sealer on before color coating? I have NEVER had good luck with DuPont products, PPG is OK, but have always had the best luck with Sikkens

 

[turbofish38]

Sounds like he either used to much reducer or the wrong heat range of reducer. Maybe even something as dumb as the wrong settings on the air gun. I'd use the latest and greatest technology if it was me. If you cant afford the materials than save up some money to do it right. Just look at how much time and money that have already been wasted. Do some shopping around. Just about all of the big names have a "budget" line of paint made specifcally for hobbyists. I use Omni paints which are made by PPG and cost about half of what the PPG stuff goes for. I've always used a two stage system. Base and clear.

 

[imjoesnuffy]

Thanks for the info guys.

My uncle showed me a car he painted 4 years ago with the DBU paint. Its a mid 90's oldmobile. Looked really good to me. I think I will give it a shot.

I will post up some pics when it is redone. Hopefully this weekend.

The store owner, in a hushed voice, tells me this wasn't the first time he has seen this problem with the particular paint I used. Would have been nice to know prior to using it. He did put on primer sealer as well.

 

[slack_sr]

what could've happened with the paint lifting was maybe the reducer was contaminated or has been sitting for a long time. In the past it has happened to me that the paint store didn't rotate stock and I received a reducer that had been sitting for a long time. This can especially happen when the reducer is a reactive type of reducer, (PPG, DBU uses reactive reducer). As far as brand of paint, I recommend PPG, but I would use the DBC line of basecoats and use the DCU 2021 clear coat. This clear is designed to dry without attracting dust. I've been painting for 15 years in a garage, no spray booth and people don't understand how I get such good results. The clear is a little more money but the results are incredible. Make sure that everything is sanded and cleaned properly, and do not use an epoxy primer over existing materials because the aggressiveness of the epoxy also can cause the lifting. Use a good sealer or a primer sealer before applying the basecoat. Hope this helped.

Mike

 

[BILL HAINES]

Paint

I Have A Few Questions. Was The Origional Paint And Primer Completely Removed? If It Was,what Primer Was Used Over The Bare Metal.was It A Metal Etch Primer,followed With A Fill Type Primer? Sounds Like The Basecoat Reducer Was Too Hot,and Softened The Primer... I Use Ppg, Dbu Has Been Out For Years And Many Shops Including Myself Use It With Good Results. The Above Thread Said He Used 2021 Clear, But In My Open Air Shop,takes Too Long To Set Up.. Ppg Came Out With 2 New Clearcoats(about A Yr Or So Ago) 3000 Or 4000.. It Is Like A "speed Type Clear" Sort Of Like The Old "nct Clear" Good For Open Air Shops,drys Fast That Way,less Dirt..i Want To Stress,the Undercoats(primers) Will Either Make Or Break The Job.. Hey, Good Luck With Your Paint Job.. I Would Be Glas To Answer Any Questions...

 

[imjoesnuffy]

Got the car back. Seems like all I did all wekend was wetsand. We sprayed saturday evening after wetsanding all day. After the 2nd coat of base, we wetsanded the entire car, again. Put on the 3rd coat, then he put on what he called a "deadcoat", turning the psi down.

Got the first coat of clear on, then the bugs came out of nowhere. We had probably 15-20 flies and gnats embed themselves. We dug them out, put on the 2nd coat of clear. After the 3rd coat of clear we called it a night.

Came back the next morning and there were a couple runs in the clear. Wetsand, wetsand, wetsand with 1200 and 1500 paper. Gonna buff it out this wednesday.