Best Subframe Connectors for TTA
- Thread starter BradWE4
- Start date
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2002
Well , I have to cut mine rolleyes: I didnt really want to do this, thats why i bought them, but , i guess i have to
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2002
I don't know why the factory downpipe (or even the THDP) comes so close to the rocker panel lip... there's really no reason, especially on the THDP. It's a performance piece and he should expect that a lot of the people buying his pipe are running subframe connectors, so why not make it a little bit shorter in that area?
Is the THDP one piece before the flex or is it like the factory and split and held with a stainless band clamp?
Is the THDP one piece before the flex or is it like the factory and split and held with a stainless band clamp?
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2002
Well, my THDP just got cut It will be welded tomorrow and fitted . Welding in subframes right now , well not right now cause this bud light is kickin in! update you later gokou , cause you will be doing this too!
Razor, I will be relocating to bradenton/Sarasota area and will look you up to do some test n tunning.
It will be welded tomorrow and fitted . Welding in subframes right now , well not right now cause this bud light is kickin in! update you later gokou , cause you will be doing this too! Razor, I will be relocating to bradenton/Sarasota area and will look you up to do some test n tunning.
I'd appreciate any info you have... my GW subframes are still on the floor of the garage and will probably go on next week sometime, and a THDP will probably follow in about a month.
I still have this little voice in my head telling me that welding to my cloth/hardtop car is crazy....
On one hand, it's going to be the first "permanent" modification to the car, but on the other hand, it's a VERY beneficial mod that the car should have rolled off the assembly line with. Decisions, decisions... I mean... what would hurt the value more-- extra steel welded to the car, or some nice wrinkles in the roof behind the windows?
I still have this little voice in my head telling me that welding to my cloth/hardtop car is crazy....
On one hand, it's going to be the first "permanent" modification to the car, but on the other hand, it's a VERY beneficial mod that the car should have rolled off the assembly line with. Decisions, decisions... I mean... what would hurt the value more-- extra steel welded to the car, or some nice wrinkles in the roof behind the windows?
Hey some subframes aint gonna hurt anything.You can always get a cutoff wheel and chop em out.Nobody will ever know..not like a 10 point cage to detract from originality eh...
TT/Ameasap when you get in the area..look me up..I'll be at the track teusday nite(slick tire nite) showing some locals some TTA tailights
Couple of hints on that THDP,first you'll need to dimple/flatten it in a couple of places.I use my pinky as a guide.Next the pipe where it couples to the top flange,put some slits into it cuase those band clamps dont squeeze too well.Next after your car is fired and it doesnt hit anywhere...take the clamp off and "pin" the pipe.Whereas you drill a small hole in the clamp area and put in a small stainless screw though the two pipes.This will keep the pipes from shifting.Then place the band clamp over the screw to hold it in place.Do this to top and bottom connections.
I went one step further and went to the autoprts and got a muffler hanger and 3 inch clamp.I used the hole rite behind the crossmember and ran the hanger/clamp to the THDP rite at the cutout point to stabilize it there.The factory clamp at the cat is way to weak to hold things in place for too long a period..
Do these things a youll be hitting free
HTH
TT/Ameasap when you get in the area..look me up..I'll be at the track teusday nite(slick tire nite) showing some locals some TTA tailights
Couple of hints on that THDP,first you'll need to dimple/flatten it in a couple of places.I use my pinky as a guide.Next the pipe where it couples to the top flange,put some slits into it cuase those band clamps dont squeeze too well.Next after your car is fired and it doesnt hit anywhere...take the clamp off and "pin" the pipe.Whereas you drill a small hole in the clamp area and put in a small stainless screw though the two pipes.This will keep the pipes from shifting.Then place the band clamp over the screw to hold it in place.Do this to top and bottom connections.
I went one step further and went to the autoprts and got a muffler hanger and 3 inch clamp.I used the hole rite behind the crossmember and ran the hanger/clamp to the THDP rite at the cutout point to stabilize it there.The factory clamp at the cat is way to weak to hold things in place for too long a period..
Do these things a youll be hitting free
HTH
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2002
OK , everything is clear now( barely) The first thing i noticed was the engine vibrating the whole car. Starting to feel like a race car now.Something i dont want but I will deal with it. I guess i will see what happens at the track hopefully 1.6 - 1.7 short times w/ my mods to come.
Gokou, make sure if you are touching to cut 1''- 1 1/8'' off that pipe cause i barely clear that flex conn. should be 10- 15 dollars to get it welded ( I welded mine so $0) and there you go!
PS
that down pipe is a mother to slide out. So i took some sand paper and smoothed her out and install was a breeze!
Gokou, make sure if you are touching to cut 1''- 1 1/8'' off that pipe cause i barely clear that flex conn. should be 10- 15 dollars to get it welded ( I welded mine so $0) and there you go!
PS
that down pipe is a mother to slide out. So i took some sand paper and smoothed her out and install was a breeze!
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
the THDP comes within 1/8th of an inch of hitting the KENNY BROWN sub frame connectors-
then you cut up some intercooler hose and squeeze it in between the pipe and KB connector-
just letting ya'll know-
then you cut up some intercooler hose and squeeze it in between the pipe and KB connector-
just letting ya'll know-
Since ya'll realize the pipe is gonna have to be cut to get a no knock fit...get the SSM SFC..they are the strongest
No sturdy frame connector is going to fit with a THDP..there just isnt the room..they maybe close..but wont without hitting.
I beat this horse to death already..
No sturdy frame connector is going to fit with a THDP..there just isnt the room..they maybe close..but wont without hitting.
I beat this horse to death already..
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
bradwe4-
if you want i can give you my friends phone number-
his TTA has the kenny brown subframe connectors and a THDP, he says they clear pretty good
but if you want the info straight from him, email me so you the info from him-
HTH
wanner@kc.rr.com
if you want i can give you my friends phone number-
his TTA has the kenny brown subframe connectors and a THDP, he says they clear pretty good
but if you want the info straight from him, email me so you the info from him-
HTH
wanner@kc.rr.com
The best frame connector would be square/rectangular tubing.And to be a bit more technical...if ya want it done rite..cut a section of floor out under the seat and run the entire length of the unibody.In other words make a frame.This is how "real" chassis shops make frame connectors.
If you want rigidity..the south side machines cannot be beat..if you want looks..then play around with the other round tubing ones.
So the question is....what is more rigid..the SSM square tubing connectors or the round tubing with bends the others sell.
If you want rigidity..the south side machines cannot be beat..if you want looks..then play around with the other round tubing ones.
So the question is....what is more rigid..the SSM square tubing connectors or the round tubing with bends the others sell.
UR50SLO
The Reaper
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2001
Welcome to the South Side....
We were recently at the midwest Buick challange at US 41.
We have a 86 Camaro with a 3.8L Buick power plant.
We use the South Side System with a little twist...
Remove your existing lower controll arms.
Remove existing fuel tank,coils and shocks and the mounting pads
We use the QA1 Adjustable coil overs and a blank set of adjustable axel coil over mounts (jeg's or similar) that weld to the back of the axel. Mount them to the axel and build a round upper mount out of left over 1 5/8 Cage tube. The torque arm is taken out by the south side system and allows us to use duel 3" under the car with out clearance problems.
We've had a best 60' that weekend of 1.49 with 6lbs of boost leaving off the foot brake. The car does not pull the tires off the ground or tweak or even squat!
It looks more like a pro stock leaving.
That pass went a 10.91@122mph with 20lbs boost through the mufflers on ET Streets 28x10.5s
That's our results with the basic system and a little fabrication
~Scott
We were recently at the midwest Buick challange at US 41.
We have a 86 Camaro with a 3.8L Buick power plant.
We use the South Side System with a little twist...
Remove your existing lower controll arms.
Remove existing fuel tank,coils and shocks and the mounting pads
We use the QA1 Adjustable coil overs and a blank set of adjustable axel coil over mounts (jeg's or similar) that weld to the back of the axel. Mount them to the axel and build a round upper mount out of left over 1 5/8 Cage tube. The torque arm is taken out by the south side system and allows us to use duel 3" under the car with out clearance problems.
We've had a best 60' that weekend of 1.49 with 6lbs of boost leaving off the foot brake. The car does not pull the tires off the ground or tweak or even squat!
It looks more like a pro stock leaving.
That pass went a 10.91@122mph with 20lbs boost through the mufflers on ET Streets 28x10.5s
That's our results with the basic system and a little fabrication
~Scott
